Finally moving into a better place... Review my weekly maintenance?
 

All,

I'm finally at a place in life where I can move into my first house with a nice 2 garage and facilities that eliminate the need to work with the coin-operated hand wash.

I plan on weekly washes/paint maintenance. I'd like to know thoughts on my routine for maintenance:

2x Liquid Wax by hand per year (spring, fall -- hand application)

Weekly maintenance:
- Power rinse (2000psi power washer)
- 2 bucket soap method with wash mitt
- Power rinse (2000psi power washer)
- Waffleweave dry
- Quick wax (haven't decided on brand yet...)

Any thoughts on the method above? I figure that if I quick-wax weekly I could get away with only 2 liquid/paste waxes a year.

One problem that I've noticed -- even with the two bucket wash method I find that some dirt gets left behind on the surface. I usually have to apply good force to get it out. Would it make more sense to adjust my method to include a foaming soap to help release dirt? The power-washer has a soap release tank. I would imagine a stronger soap would help release dirt from surface, but may strip wax off more quickly. I'd be applying quick wax after drying, and perhaps this would offset the loss of protection due to soap strength?

Thanks for your thoughts -- Trying to find a good balance between protection, cleanliness, and time/energy savings (given that I can devote an hour every 7 days)

I don't really see a need to wash your car every week. wash it once it gets dirty; I haven't washed my car for about a month and half and it still looks pretty clean.

however, when I do wash my car, I do the wheels first with Sonax cleaner. then I use a foam cannon and let the soap sit on the car for a bit before rinsing. if my car is relatively clean, I only use 1 bucket but if it's really dirty I use 2 buckets with a microfiber mitt and I just dump my left over soap from the foam cannon into the bucket and fill it up before going down the car. rinse it off again and dry. then, depending on how long ago it was, I apply Carnuba wax by hand (usually once every 3 months). if I don't use the Carnuba, I use a spray-on sealant after washing my car. then I use a window detailer afterwards on both inside and outside windows (and anything else). tire dresser comes in at the very end. don't apply too much dressing though since it might fling off when you drive it

this is the soap I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the sealant I use (plus it smells great): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
window cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
wheel cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
foam cannon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I buy all my car towels from theragcompany.com. they're cheap and good quality

Grab a third bucket (a different colour that your other two are best case) and ONLY use that bucket and the tools on your wheels. Will assist in preventing micro scratches.

Thanks for the tips! I may not wash every 7 days, but here in Indiana we get so much pollen and rain that the car gets dirty every 3 or 4 days easily.

I feel that 2 coats of wax a year is sufficient in most situations.

Hell, just wash it when you feel like it ...... during the summer, the "car" don't care if it's dirty or not ......;)



humfrz

Get your car Opticoat Pro or Gloss Coat. Then washing your car will be so much easier. No need power wash because the water will sheet off the car with Optimum Opticoat or newest Gloss Coat. No need wax every week. Every other wash I just use Optimum Instant Detailer. Just my 2 cents! ;)

I use a cordless leaf blower to dry my car. It really helps speed up the drying process on my wife's gigantic SUV.

I would wax every three months if you're in Indiana. The temperature extremes in the area and pollen definitely shortens the amount of protection you're getting from your wax.

I use chemical guys waterless wash weekly; followed up by their VO7 detail spray.

I only hand wash my car with soap and water about 2-3 times a year, then apply sealant followed by wax.

Some folk don't trust a waterless wash, but this has worked well for me for the past 3+ years and my car is pretty much spotless most of the time.

Here are links to the products I use.
1. waterless wash - 16 oz concentrate makes two gallons and lasts a long time; more than a year. spray on, wipe dirt off with a clean microfiber. http://www.chemicalguys.com/EcoSmart...wac_707_16.htm

2. Follow up with detail spray - i like this because it buffs off easily to a nice shine. http://www.chemicalguys.com/Hybrid_V...wac_808_16.htm

I use the detail spray to clean my wheels as well. The entire process takes me an hour a week, including interior cleaning. I use aerospace 303 protectant on tires, exposed exterior plastic, seat leather and engine compartment (hoses etc).

Approx 2-3x a year, I wash (clay if need be) and then apply sealant: http://www.chemicalguys.com/JetSeal_...wac_118_16.htm
Add a coat of wax (optional) http://www.chemicalguys.com/Butter_W...wac_201_16.htm

Sometimes bird poop or bee poop can etch the paint, and once in a while I'll notice a fine scratch, so I'll manually buff it out with this: http://www.chemicalguys.com/Scratch_...com_129_16.htm

i knew a coworker that would take a microfiber towel to clean out his exhausts tips every morning he parked his car at work...then again he had an M5 and bought a shiny chrome, loud aftermarket exhaust for it lol

Sounds awesome -- Unfortunately the car is a 2013 and doesn't have the best paint overall. I'm sure I would go this route with a nearly new car, but given that I have to wash 2 other vehicles I may as well just apply my routine to all 3 vehicles.

Thanks for reminding me though... I'll opticoat on the next car.

Power rinse with a 2,000psi power washer? Aren't you afraid of blasting the paint off? I use a garden hose (60psi?) with the "fan" style lawn watering nozzle to knock off loose dirt/dust and I still cringe at "blasting" it with that.

The more you wash your car, the shorter your "sealant" will last. Also, the more concentrated your soap/water solution is, the faster the sealant will come off. Spray sealants don't last long.

If you're washing that often, I don't know why you would ever need to power wash.

If you need to use force to get any dirt out even after power washing, your sealant is no longer doing it's job and/or you didn't properly prep the surface before sealant.

I'm surprised there aren't more advocates for using a sealant. Protection from a wax really doesn't last longer than a month or two. A good sealant will last you for a good 4-6 months, so you can basically refresh it before winter & before summer; I personally use Menzerna PowerLock - really great stuff. You can top it with a wax for more shine but I just stick with the sealant. This should avoid the need to spend money on quick-waxes all the time.

RE: your question about having dirt left over after a 2-bucket wash, have you ever clayed the car? It sounds like you possibly haven't, so before doing a full seal/wax initially you should clay-bar the paint to get all of the difficult-to-remove contamination and smooth out the clear coat. That would prep the paint properly for any correction or wax/sealant.

I did, a few posts up.

Apologies, didn't notice. Corrected my post. :)

I've never had a problem and research suggests that high pressure rinsing is just fine for paint. I've got the power-washer at my disposal, so seems to make sense to use it.

I do a lot of highway driving and its amazing the junk that I pick up on the front of the car. Additionally I tend to pick up dirt around the fenders as I have quite wide wheels/tires.

At any rate, i'm used to washing once every 2-3 weeks or less. So I may find that I don't need the power washer if I can wash more frequently. Thanks for your input!

does that spray sealant/retailer attract dirt?

Thanks for your input -- I'm currently using Ultimate Liquid Wax, which I believe to be a sealant. I'll definitely give the clay bar a try. I haven't clayed yet!

nope.

Always cool to hear about people stepping up their wash game. A few thoughts and recommendations:

In regards to the pressure washer, 2000psi is sort of on the high side for a vehicle, I would prefer something in the 1600-1700 psi range if possible. A foam gun looks cool, it may or may not actually show any improvements in grit removal and to be honest just a pressure washer rinse should be enough but it can never hurt. I am surprised your having grit still on the surface after washing. I think there is a possible kink in your technique or materials. What type of wash mitt are you using and what type of soap? Are your jambs completely clean? sometimes the hood or trunk jambs can leak dirty water on a clean car when you rinse.

I would also recommend to you to get a mild clay bar and clay the car at least 1X per year maybe more depending as needed.

In regards to protection. I would certainly recommend a paint sealant and possibly a wax topper. Two combos I have used in the past before moving on to coatings. Probably one of the easiest to apply is Optimum Opti-Seal and topped with Opti-Wax. Both preserve the clear coat with UV protection which is very important, will keep the paint clean and both are extremely easy to apply and maintain.

Second combo I would recommend Sonax Polymer Net Shield as the sealant and Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer as the topper. Brilliant Shine is actually a spray sealant so don't let the name fool you. Now they are grabby to apply and require more technique but they bead water like a coating.

One of the big reason I recommend both the Optimum products and Sonax products is that they can be applied to ALL areas of the car, paint, trim etc. I personally like that I can protect everything with one product. Feel free to ask any questions and good luck.

It is a car with car paint the sun causes more damage than a pressure washer ever will. Pressure washer pressures are measured directly at the nozzle exit. If used on a fan setting you are nowhere near the rated pressure if even a few inches away. If you are washing your car any closer than about a foot you are going to take forever anyway. You do want to be careful around chips on the plastic parts though since they do not hold the paint as well as the metal and you can peal it off in a hurry if the water can get under it.

I figure that the pressure washer i've got doesn't put out the rated power of 2200 -- It's probably closer to 1500, especially when I throw on the angled nozzle. There has been a time or two when i've had sap or something still stuck to the car after the wash was complete. Mainly on the front bumper or right above (I drive a lot of highway miles). I'm working with Mcguairs Gold Class for soap and just a traditional wash mitt. I probably just need to pay a bit more attention as I'm going through the routine.

I'll definitely give the clay bar a shot -- as well as the sealants/wax boosters you suggest. Thanks!

I've found (learned back on the farm, watching my mother "soaking" baking dishes ......;)) that if you start by lathering up the buggy front clip, and let it "soak" while you wash the rest of the car ...... by the time you get around to the last part (the front clip) the bugs will just about fall off.


humfrz

Do you have grit guards for your wash buckets? If not, you really really need them.

i'll try it out

Everybody's needs are different depending on where you are in the states. The Socal folks are always going on about your waterless washes and detail sprays, but in the Southeast that doesn't work because we have way more pollen and bugs.

So I say use a detail regimen that works for you in your environment. For me, my car sits outside 100% of the time and needs a weekly wash for all the dirt, pollen, brake dust, bird poop, grass clippings, mold growth (yeah ew), and bug guts etc. My car has a few marks and scratches so I always keep a fresh coat of wax to keep them from showing up too much.

And I just got on the grit guard bandwagon. Man what have I been doing without these! So much dirt!

You can always try a Ceramic coat. it's expensive from the getgo but eliminates the need to ever wax your car again and all you need is a power washer to get off any dirst or pollen.

Ceramic coats come off when you buff out swirl marks. Despite what the installer says you will get swirl marks eventually with ceramic coats. I'd rather save the money, and spend the time claying, waxing, and washing during regular intervals. The only long term investment in paint I think that's actually worth it is a clear bra.

check out Ammo NYC's youtube channel on proper wash and paint maintenace techniques and his recommended intervals. over washing the car will do more harm than good, i think weekly wash is overkill and you will most likely introduce more swirls and scratches than if you just wash it once a month.

edit: corrected sentence.

EXACTILY ......... I knew there was a good reason why I only wash my car twice a year ..... :D


humfrz

twice a year is a bit long for me haha. i try to do it once a month, or once every other month. but i do try my best to keep bug splats and bird dropping off the car as much as i can with detailing spray.

I'm not sure if we are talking about the same thing. Ceramic coats are a super hard layer of essentially glass that goes on the car. That shouldnt be able to be removed with anything but sanding.

Also the reason a lot of people get swirl marks is due to the fact that most people arent told the curing process for ceramic is about 20 days. You see a lot of youtube videos of people washing their car like a week after it gets coated. Technically the coat is still in a hardened gel form and hasnt completely dried yet. While its hard enough for daily driving they shouldn't be washing it. Thats where you get swirl marks and thats also probably how it gets removed with just a buff out.

Also if you go with a Ceramic Pro installer, the silver and gold packages come with a warranty, which means if you do get swirl marks they can fix and reapply the ceramic for free.

You also have to remember that the ceramic coats are very specifically a 9H coating. Bronze packaging for ceramic doesnt actually get the 9H coat. Which, guess what, means they didnt actually get a ceramic coat.

The dirt on your car is made up of hard particles, just as durable as the grit on sandpaper. Anybody that has a history of detailing their own car knows that no matter what you do (avoiding rinse-less car wash products, blasting off your car with foamy lubricating soap, two bucket method with grit guard, new sponges and towels, etc), there will always be particles left on the surface that you're rubbing against when gliding that sponge across your car. Nothing short of something of 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness (diamond), is going to prevent swirl marks. The dust and dirt on your car contains particles that go up pretty high on that scale.

But the proof is always in the pudding. When looking at the advertising for this product, it mentions being "Scratch Resistant", never "Scratch Proof". If it'll scratch, it'll swirl. You can further confirm that the company is not confident this will reduce swirls by looking at the warranty of this product you're referencing (Nanoshine Ceramic Pro 9H). If in fact it could protect against swirl marks, I highly doubt they would list swirl marks as something they do not provide coverage for...

Exclusions –

1. Where the owner has deemed to have been careless, negligent or fails to maintain the exterior painted surface in the correct manner.

2. Pre-existing damage to the painted surface.

3. Damage to the coated surface by incorrect manual wash techniques, automatic car washes, brushes or contaminated wash tools that may cause abrasion, or damage caused by a third party not authorised by Nano Shine.

4. Swirl marks, marring, scratches, scuffs, scrapes, chips to the vehicles surface.

5. Waterspots – Waterspots are caused by hard water (mineral deposits) which are left to dry on the paint and leave a stain, water spotting is not covered.

6. Failed Clear Coat – Peeling, Hazing and Fading.

7. Damage caused by collision, accidental damage, vandalism, malicious damage, fire, hail, flood, stones, collision, surface rust, rail dust, physical damage, paint overspray, water etch or vehicle manufacturer’ defects, or defects which may be covered under a manufacturers or dealerships protection plan.

8. Area’s that have not been retreated after a paint repair.

9. Any loss of time or use of the vehicle while it undergoes inspections or treatments.

Source: http://www.nanoshine.com.au/lifetime_warranty.html

Their list of exclusions actually seems to warranty against everything somebody would expect this coating to provide protection against. Am I saying this product is useless? Nope. I'm just saying it's a lot of money for something that doesn't provide a ton of protection, and from my experience isn't permanent. For my money i'll stick with a clear bra for the front, and the good old clay bar, polish, wax, and regular wash for everything else.

i hope you are not using a sponge...

For cryen out loud folks, you're not washing a newborn baby .......:eyebulge:

Most of the time, just wash the damn dirt off whenever you feel like it and wax it a couple times a year ..........:D


humfrz - off to nap land

do you recommend ceramic coating a baby?

Well, here at the humfrz day care, I just got done coating my 7&9 year old granddaughters with sunscreen, before they went out into pa-pa's swimming pool.

Also, I fed the 2 month old granddaughter 3 oz of formula ....... ma-ma took over and changed her ....... but I didn't ask if she coated her ...... :iono:


NOW - it's nap time ......... ;)


humfrz

I have a friend that never truly washes his car; he just rinses it with a pressure washer if it gets really dirty. he looks at me like I'm crazy when I spend only 3 hours detailing my car lol

Is he old .....??

:D


humfrz