Push button start issues
 

I've done some extensive searching on here and thought I'd reach out to the community to see if there is anything I've missed. I really didn't want the push button start, I've had issues with them in the past, but wanted this color (lunar storm) and it was the only option!

Here's the current state of my 2016 FRS (MT) with less than 200 miles on it:

• The car will turn on everything when I press the button but the engine will not even attempt to start. Lights work, stereo works, HVAC fan will come on. I've turned all that off for now, but it all works.
• Green key light is solid, not blinking to indicate steering lock or clutch switch issue. Not sure if there is a neutral switch for MT vehicles? Car is in neutral.
• Steering wheel is still locked.
• Yellow Alarm car/lock symbol is still blinking the entire time, not sure when that is supposed to turn off?
• Car will not even attempt to turn over. I hear noises from the engine bay that sound like maybe fuel or some other pump running?

Here's what I've tried:

• Charge the battery. It's hold a 13+V float charge after charging. It did need to be charged but seemed to take a charge and my vector charger claims the battery is good. I suppose it could still be a battery issue, but the voltage is reading high?
• Tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to "reset" the ECU.
• Loaded up Torque pro looking for any stored codes, it returns nothing. Reset it anyway just to try.
• Tried to move the steering wheel back and forth. It's still locked, never gets unlocked, however the green key indicator is not blinking fast, it's solid.
• Checked all fuses for ignition, found some issues with injector wire grounding in the archives. All fuses seem good.
• Wiggled the relay switch, also found in the archives. Could still be bad, but messing with it didn't help.
• Tried both keys, tried pushing the key to the button, but the green dash indicator is solid, which leads me to believe it's detecting the key just fine.
• Parasitic draw is around 350 mA, that seems REALLY high to me, but there's a lot of electronics on these modern cars? This is with the keyfob out of range.

Mods:

• I put in a new rear-view mirror right before I noticed the issue. I have to think this is a coincidence. I wired it to the glove-box cig plug wires that should be able to supply the 20mA the mirror seems to draw without any issues. Car had been sitting for a day without running.
• Full tint and clear bra installed the day before. (last time the vehicle was running)
• No other mods.

If the key symbol on dash is still yellow then the key fob code is not being read by the car. try the other key fob. Also try holding the keyfob right next to the start switch button for 30 sec then press start.

make sure clutch is fully depressed or car wont start

if still no good

try removing a battery terminal then press brake pedal, this will reset all ecu in car, and also your radio so you will need security code for that if set.

then try again

still no good

you may have an imobiler module issue, remove your mods and call dealer, it not a cheap or easy fix and your car is under warantee.

It's not the key symbol that is yellow. It's the alarm security indicator that is blinking yellow. The key symbol is solid green.

Thanks for the suggestions. I did remove the battery terminal, but did not do the brake thing. I'll give that shot.

I had a friend with a very similar issue. There was a fuse in the engine fusebox that got burned. I helped him troubleshoot it but can't remember right now off the top of my head. It was a fuse for IGN 1 if I'm not mistaken.

(I know you said you checked the fuses, but maybe try and look again because there was more than one IGN fuses in the box).

I tested all of them unfortunately. It's at the dealer now, I'll update when I hear back but my best guess is on faulty computer somewhere.

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just fyi there are 2 locations for the fuses, one under the hood passenger side, one in the interior driver side... just had a taillamp fuse go bad on me, taillamp fuse is in the cabin.

again fyi, you can remove the socket to the clutch, this way it'll work even without pressing it..

Update... The dealer is telling me the sensor for the locking solenoid on the steering wheel is bad and will take three weeks to get from Toyota? Is Toyota going down as a reliable brand or is this just a fluke? Three weeks to get any part on a car that has been around for three years also seems ridiculous?

Try a Subaru dealer for the part, it's a Subaru after all.

Well the car has less than 200 miles on it. Would be nice if subaru would honor the warranty to. I'd rather not have to pay for it.

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Can you get a dealer loaner or a rental from the dealer? If the car is down because of a warrantied part I'd be pretty annoyed if they just said no car for you for three weeks.

I could but I don't really need a loaner. I want my car! I'm with you on the annoyed part.

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I would think it's a fluke, just because this is not a high volume car and that's a very rare part to need. If you needed a common part off a Corolla, then I'm sure they have a ton of them in stock. Or even if you needed a common part for an FRS.

Here is the part they say they're replacing, didn't get the part number. Electric Starting Lock Assembly.

the sensor for the immobilizer?

That is the only description I've been given. I did ask for an actual part number and wasn't given one.

That part is actually made by Toyota/Tokai Rika. I believe it even has Toyota stamped on it. So no... not everything on these cars is Subaru sourced. I made a thread about this:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71898

The push button start cars have an electricly operated steering lock, if it jams in lock position or does not unlock or its not detected that its unlocked completly car wont start. quite often you have to jiggle steering wheel to release it if poeple have turned wheel after locking car and their is pressure on lock mechanism. yours may be faulty .

I'll just point out that shit sometimes happens. Just because a part failed on a brand new car doesn't mean you're in for a world of problems. Just means you happened to get a defective part. Nobody is perfect. I got an annoying rattle almost right away when I bought my BRZ. Thought, "Oh great. Already having problems." Turned out to be a defective heat shield band clamp that I was able to fix myself and 30,000 miles later, no other real issues.

It will be fixed. It's probably a very uncommon part to replace which would explain why they don't stock it (though a 3 week wait seems a bit excessive).

From past experience I'm wary of electronic gremlins as replacing the failed part may not be the root of the issue. However I'm remaining cautiously optimistic. Still waiting for the part to get in. They were able to "expedite" it to arrive next week (maybe). I've tried to push them on this as much as I can, all I can do now is wait.

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Picked up the car today, now the steering wheel does not lock at all, the car beeps all the time when the door is open regardless of what's going on (like it's detecting something still on/open), and the car will start about 80% of the time I push the button, which is definitely better than 0%. It's back at the dealer again.

Another update. Toyota is telling them to replace some "control module ECU behind the steering lock assembly". Not sure if that's the BIU or the actual ECU, or something else It has been in the shop 16 days at this point. I'm waiting to hear how long this part will take.

I pushed them for additional options and they have offered to replace the vehicle with an identical (new) one on the lot, but I have a lot of money already into re-tinting and clear-bra protection.

What do you guys think? Still think it's worth letting them fix it? I'd really like to start modifying this vehicle, but now I'm feeling chained to stock because I'll actually need my warranty. If I trade in the vehicle, I'm out a bunch of cash that I'm relatively certain they will not cover. I see my options at this point.

1. Continue to see if they can fix it? Do I trust them to remove all of these major electronic components and get them back in without future issues on a brand new vehicle?

2. Trade in for an identical one on the lot losing the significant amount I already have in the vehicle.

3. I'm considering asking for a 2017 allotment instead as an option, might be worth letting the cash go on the personally applied upgrades.

4. Push for lemon and get full refund minus personal upgrade expenses, similar to #3 but gives me more options on what to get as a replacement.

Open to suggestions, even those I may not want to hear.

How much money do you have into it? I'd be very tempted to do a complete swap for a new 16 or 17 allotment and just start over, because I'd never be able to enjoy the current car without wondering if it's about to shit itself.

When do the 17s come out? It's all well and good to get one of the new cars once it comes in, but you need a car until that point, as well.

2017 with the extra 5hp would be great :) with upgraded looks and whatnot..

not sure what you've done so far to the vehicle, but I'd go with replacing if they've already suggested that I'd take it. who knows what other issues you'll run into.

can you remove the upgrades from the current vehicle and apply to the replacement?

$1200 in tint removal/replacement and clear-bra. 2017 frs can't be ordered yet as far as I know. Only the brz. Thanks for the feedback. I've definitely lost trust in the vehicle.

I'm fortunate enough not to need the vehicle, so I'll still have something to get me around until I can get a replacement.

If the dealer is willing to replace your car with a new one you might just ask to have them throw in covering tint and a bra as part of the deal. A lot dealers have connections with tint places so you might get lucky there.

I would be surprised if they ordered you a 2017 as a replacement.

frankly I'm surprised they even suggested replacement. wish I bought mine from that dealer. wonder how their service is because I'm not even happy with the service... (ps. purchased the vehicle in VA, now I'm at MI)

Depending on the state the OP is from, they are slowly approaching lemon law territory. In CA its 30 days in the shop or 4 trips to the shop for the same reason. A stand up dealership is hopefully trying to keep their customer happy.

Taking a loss on a car (reselling it as CPO after getting it fixed) but keeping a customer is better than taking a loss and losing a customer.

Right. It's the same law here too. 30/4. This is an exceptional dealer though. They haven't told me no on anything yet. Sounds like the switch can only happen on identical vehicles so no 2017 option unless I request a buyback from Toyota. I did call corporate and open a case today to investigate all my options. Still waiting to hear on the final word from the dealer on a car swap with them paying for or providing the upgrades. Thanks for the responses. :)

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Bumping this! Did the switch fix your starting issues ultimately ?