ALso, I’m pretty sure the kit is defective. You should probably sell it to me. :D

Car is making ~120hp over stock.

Car has 4000 miles, how do you think the tensioner is?

It happened on startup.

Car had just been driven a couple miles and parked, not even warmed up - was running fine with no weird sounds. Started back up and WAP WAP WAP.

Yup, kit is totalled. I'll sell it to you for the low low price of $10k. :D

I found this old thing:

http://beltguy.com/National%20Dragst...%20Article.pdf

I feel like alignment and tension are the two biggest possibilities for belt failure. I doubt the belt material failed, but that could be.

I'd guess the belt got nicked somewhere during shipping or the install.

That is a different type of belt. Tooth vs Rib.

DAmn! That sucks!! WEird that it would happen on startup though isn't it? WOuld normally expect something like that happening when under WOT under full boost.

Right, but the reasoning works the same. You have a small pully on your kit?

85mm. Stock is 95mm.

@HarropOz

Does the Australian emissions tune come with any driveline warranty? Did you look at cylinder pressures like Cosworth for durability?

I'm interested in the base kit as a DD proposition.

Is the kit going to be modified for the 17+ cars?

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_Chws-XA70"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_Chws-XA70[/ame]

Flex fuel and flex boost setup

Thanks. Posted on the front page!

I'm glad they did this.

I noticed when installing the blower that it came with a dual port bypass actuator, making it possible to add boost-by-gear to the blower.

I plan to add this on mine at some point so I can turn boost down at low RPM (1000-2200rpm). With the automatic transmission in my car, the sudden boost at low RPM with the 85mm pulley makes the car really jerky and there's nothing to do about it without using the bypass to force the SC to bleed off boost.

Add in a shed load of cam overlap, that would essentially do the same thing. There is enough cam movement that you should be able to do this.

Already been down that road. Add too much and the car won't move (literally the car died on me several times when pushing the gas pedal to leave my driveway because the motor couldn't compress the air to splode it) add too little and it's bog (because of soul crushing ignition retard from having 12psi of boost at 1800rpm) then POWER (when it recovers), spinning the tires from every stop light looking like an asshat. :burnrubber:

It's reasonably dialed in now, but I still get some gremlins when trying to drive sedately. Sometimes I'm tired and I just want to leave a stop light like a normal human being. :bellyroll:

It'd be so much easier if I just had something statically pulling boost out at low RPM. Then the car could be tuned normally. I had a setup like this on a previously supercharged car and it was really nice.

The slushbox isn't doing me any favors here.

If I lived in aus I’d do this kit without question.

You shouldn't be in boost when driving at part throttle due to the bypass valve and you only need to add the cam overlap at higher loads for when in boost and not when at cruising. The tables in the ECU are 3D so are capable of doing this. This shouldn't give any driveability issues in either circumstances, pulling away you won't be in boost.... unless you nail it away from every stop :burnrubber: Even then you only need enough to bleed away some boost.

Either that or you could just do throttle limiting at lower RPM.

At what throttle position does boost kick in or does not get bypassed?

A 3D log output of throttle vs RPM would easily show that.

On mine:

http://res.cloudinary.com/lagbv048w/...e_Pressure.jpg
http://res.cloudinary.com/lagbv048w/..._Pressure1.jpg

Is it 1.36 bar or 19 psi including atmosphere or 5 psi of boost on the gauge, or is that 1.36 bar above atmosphere and thus 19 psi of boost on the gauge?

I'd be aiming for 260-270 whp with this kit. I have a Tomei UEL header and overpipe plus an Invidia frontpipe and Q300 Catback.

Would I need the 85mm to achieve this or would the 90mm be okay? I don't want to stress the engine too much as this is my daily driver (Only drive it on weekends though)

That's MAP, so 0.36 bar of boost. However mine is a Sprintex and running the OEM sensor, so capped reading. Where the output is 1 is where it's going into positive pressure.

So it looks like at 40-50% of accelerator pedal is where boost starts.

Is on mine, however I have what I guess most would deem as soft pedal mapping so I would expect a more standard map to be around 10% less.

10% seems low, as if highway driving would have enough pedal to be in boost. Is that what people are getting?

10% less than the 40-50% since he has a soft pedal mapping...

Thanks, yea, so I’m still curious if people are seeing boost like are you guys getting 1-2psi at 70mph or is the bypass setup for max efficiency?

Sounds like there is something majorly wrong with your hardware/tune. There is no way you can be in boost starting off from a start. And you shouldn't be having any driveability issues.

I am on the 70mm pulley and have stage 3 piper cams and have 0 driveability issues. Also there is no where near any kind of boost when putting around town. The bypass valve will be bleeding off any pressure at these low load conditions.

I've had the same issues. Still trying to contact the group that tuned the vehicle. It predominantly happens in warmer weather.

I've also had P0171, P0172, C1201, C1231, and C1241 codes over the course of this. Also, the intercooler pump relay's fuse blew not too long ago which was a giant surprise.

Wanted to share my track build. Very happy with this kit so far. Thanks @HarropOz

Harrop Kit at 15-16 psi on a CSG spec Blue Moon assembled motor with stage 3 Piper cams on e80 flex fuel.

Generating massive heat from the power, so needed dual oil coolers to keep temps down (2x 25row setrabs). Built ducting for all heat exchangers. Temps are looking good now!

https://scontent.fsjc1-3.fna.fbcdn.n...98&oe=5ACDB763

https://scontent.fsjc1-3.fna.fbcdn.n...33&oe=5AB59A85

https://scontent.fsjc1-3.fna.fbcdn.n...07&oe=5AB6B0CD

What compression ratio is that motor?

@HarropOz New Years Resolution: CARB EO for 2018

12:1

Looking forward to joining the owners club. The struggle of waiting is real...


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so what happens when you run out of corn juice? with the compression ration you got is it still possible to safely run 93 octane?

Stock compression is 12.1:1 or something and many are running high boost pulleys on 91 without issues. Timing is just changed or the tune is just different. I think TJ Hunt went high boost and only gained like 10 hp on 91 because of a safe tune, but with e85 gained a hundred or more hp to put down 420whp because he could tune aggressive.

is there an official statement from Harrop regarding CARB status? I want to burn a hole in my wallet just for that sticker.

See above. I’m hoping it is their New Years resolution. I’m not a buyer without the CARB tune, so I’m waiting, but I’m also not eager at this moment to go FI, so I’m going to go Edelbrock or JR just yet.

I emailed Harrop and they said not really active on the forum.

Yea, we kinda figured that, but did they mention CARB?

I asked a different set of questions around Australia. Hit them up with an email they are quick to reply.