Full Catless with jdl uel header. It's all auto fyi.. so not sure if the gearing used dramatically affects the result.
I will say that my 0 to 60 is around 4.6 which I must say it's quite impressive when there is no clutch dumping or any sort of launch control..

JDL uel

A realistic reference guide for people, using an internationally respected tuner.
The latest power run on E85 at around 15c on a Dynapack.
65mm pulley, built motor (etc), ACE headers, no cat, custom 2.75 single exhaust, 4.66 diff, on a Motec. (motor with about 10,000km hard use)

418.85 Nm @ 5035 rpm
374.27 hp (279 KW) @ 7000 rpm

Its always about the torque :)

Looks almost identical to my turbo K24 at 10psi E85 with one cat and 2.5” exhaust. I’m interested to see what Harrop will do on the FA24. I think this is their smallest pulley, so I would expect mid to high 400’s with the FA24. Should be a rocket with all that instant torque.

It was interesting, the tuner is not a real fan of the FA20, but he did confirm that compared to many inline fours it does quite well in terms of torque... thankfully I guess, with a relatively low rev ceiling HP is always going to be more of a challenge.
But then he taught me a lesson in humility when he overlaid some Nissan GTR dyno runs he did the day before, with some light mods (nothing internal) and a still fairly conservative tune...over 1000 Nm at under 3k rpm...and docile enough for your mum to drive to the shops.

Impressive.
I'm assuming this isn't mustang dynanomenter?

Dynojet with NASA classing settings

still pretty good nonetheless..
Mine running e70 with 85mm pulley can only garner 280/220 tuned and dyno-ed on Mustang dynanometer with ambient temp at around 100.

so maybe that's the problem - the temp?
well, kinda underwhelming..but it does pull though.. so idk I might go dyno it again around this time now that the temp has fallen.
It's a +17 AT though.

With the old saying of dyno is a tool, can't compare numbers directly disclaimer standing...

When I dyno'd the car it was in the 60s ambient and the following things that might affect power:

ACE A350 header
Catless ACE front pipe
2.75" Catback
OSGiken clutch/fw
Jack's built stock 6spd transmission
255/35/18 Nankang AR1 tires

If you want a more apples to apples comparison you could take the car to most any Dynojet shop and hand them this:

https://nasa-assets.s3.amazonaws.com...m--3-14-22.pdf

That'll let you compare numbers fairly closely to anyone else who was dyno'd on the same setup. There is also compliance database with the dyno data for everyone that competes with NASA to browse through if you want to go bench racing too.

https://airtable.com/shrtuIZcugofvmC...gWtC3AQ0QAJPI0

Slightly off subject given the last couple of pages, but interested in what plugs people are using in their Harrop fitted cars. Specifically when running e85 70 to 80% of the time. OEM of aftermarket? Considering changing mine @ 44k kms and some recent misfires at 2k rpm when under hard acceleration, sluggishness off the mark, and rough start up and idling. I know it sound like a dirty MAF or vacuum leak but I might as well do the entire job properly.

Harrop, with 85mm pulley, been on car for 2 years now and still best bang for buck I’ve spent. In case anyone was thinking of going that route.

As a side question, is anyone else apart from me running the dual Radium catch can setup? Any issues re vacuum leaks associated for the fitment. Harrop in Melbourne, AU installed my kit and apparently connecting the Radium’s had them scratching their heads for a while before working it out. Seems to work as designed and I get very little, 1mm, oil every six months due to blow by.

I changed my plugs about 2000km ago as a belts and braces thing when I put in new Ignition Projects coil packs.
Just used the recommended OEM plugs, and they are fine.

I use the dual Radium kit too, and I have always gotten significant oil from the (right hand side tank) PCV valve , but almost nothing from the other (left side tank) crank case breather side.... regardless of the pulley sizes I have fitted.

How many k’s were on the car when you did the plugs? I’m avoiding it due to the difficulty factor but it’s something I want to do just to see how hard it really is..

Nothing of note in my Radium’s though the cars done very little work or k’s, 2000kms, since install due to covid.

They had been replaced when I had the built engine put in, so had only done around 4-5k, and were in good condition.

Changing the plugs is frustrating/annoying etc, but not the end of the world.
Make sure you buy a thin walled, magnetic, long, and flexible ended 14mm socket.
Take the time remove as much crap that is in the way as possible.
And buy a small piece of plastic tubing that you can slip over the plugs end cap to help guide it into place.
And if you do the hard side first, the next bank seems like a doddle!

After doing this 3 or 4 times, the secret I found is to just let the socket fall into the hole and to have a small magnetic stick.

For removal, slide a magnetic spark plug socket down the hole by itself. Slide a short 3" extension in after it, but don't let them fully engage each other. The extension should be slightly sticking out of the hole. Attach a socket wrench and loosen the spark plug. I prefer to use the socket wrench to just crack it loose and then take it off and loosen by hand, but either works. Once the spark plug is fully loosened, take off the socket wrench and pull out the extension. Use a short magnetic stick to pull the socket out. The spark plug should stay in the socket since it's magnetic.

For installing a spark plug, slide a spark plug down the hole by itself first, and then follow all the steps for removing, obviously tightening the spark plug instead of loosening it. :)

I was dumbfounded how quick I completed the last set using this method after struggling for hours the first few times. Removing all the stuff just to reach the spark plugs takes the majority of the time. Good luck!