Thank you. I'll try those tomorrow. Just hope my tune can work on the short term if I drive carefully (Need to ask tuner) on the stock header as it's a Daily Driver. I guess if someone could gut the cat then tig weld it all up tomorrow afternoon I wouldn't be in too much trouble, but I need to ask the tuner.

It's not like I have the cash to drop on a brand new header for the short term unless there's a work-around while my main header is repaired.

If I was welding it then it would take like ten minutes from setup of everything to being finished. You could probably get it MIG or TIG welded for like $50 or less, and it should be done same day.

A wrinkle in all of this is that once colder weather hit, the car behaved better despite staying on e70 to e35. I'm at a loss as to what is causing it since a vband was leaking on the JDL F/O pipe, but then was fixed and the car behaved for a time, then went back to the stalling. The system still fuels very rich. My emissions test as part of naturalizing showed error codes P0420 and P2109

I did log with ECUTek while the stalling issues occurred then sent them to the tuner. No word back nearly a week later, so I'm guessing life is busy or there doesn't seem to be anything in the logged variables that stood out.

I’m not on ethanol, so I can’t say what the car should be like, yet I can confirm that the car loves cold weather NA or FI. There is a big difference for me.

So the leak was with the Vband, and it is fixed now?

The P0420 is the cats and the P2109 is the throttle position sensor.
The first one is probably because you don’t have cats, right?
The sensor could be a bad or lose wire in the connector. That’s what I read.

Can you post a datalog?

Any recommended hosting links for the datalogs? I have an hour of data in traffic, highway speeds, and a WOT event on an empty road.

The v-band clamp on the JDL catted front pipe was under a lot of tension while connected to the transmission hanger and couldn't seal the neck area, but has been fixed.

I will be pulling the skid plate soon to check the bank2 O2 sensor wires, but I've seen a lot of bank 1 errors. Possibly prudent to order new O2 sensors, pull the race header and ask a machine shop to check the welds for leaks. The PTuning header does not have a cat and Bank1 O2 sensor is in one of the runners with Bank2 is in the merged/collected exhaust flow.

Datazap

Thank you!

https://datazap.me/u/trefoil/bucking...a=7&hg=2-15-33

https://datazap.me/u/trefoil/bucking...g?log=1&data=7


https://datazap.me/u/trefoil/bucking...g?log=2&data=7


I dont really know how to utilize the site yet, but these are the 3 logs that I could upload.Those 0 RPM events are preceeded by incredibly high AFR, which makes me wonder if the ECU or the Bank1 O2 sensor with the AFR gauge are failing. The wiring for the Bank1 O2 sensor is intact and not melted, but could any afterfire cause damage to it from an improper tune?

I’m pretty much a novice at interpreting these things, but generally the way I’ve taken them or read them is during particular scenarios like idling for several minutes or doing a wide open pull from 2k to redline or holding an rpm at a given speed like 45mph or 3k rpms in 3rd.

I’m assuming your tune is calibrated off the MAF and not the MAP, right? The MAP is flat. My Delicious Tune uses the MAP sensor.

I'll do all three of those and post them again. I wasn't actually told whether the tune was Speed Density like Delicious uses vs my tuner's choices. It's odd that with an SC that it wasn't considered. I'll check the connection on the MAP sensor in addition to making sure that the log file records that input.

Coming from the MR2 Turbo days, it's nice to get this sort of feedback so easily.

Do need to note: the problems that I keep facing are intermittent/transient. Some days the car fires up and runs fine, but others, despite being warm or let to sit overnight, will cause an issue throughout an entire commute.

Yeah the map sensor isn't working correctly or there's something wrong with the logs. That's definitely a warning sign.

What's the failure rate on the MAP sensor? Reason enough to consider another mfg if I went to an 85mm pulley vs the stock 95?

Well - if you're on the stock sensor, I'd be surprised if it failed. That said, that is one of the things that the harrop wiring replaces the direct connection from the OEM wiring harness... so you could double check the connection between the oem harness and the harrop harness for that sensor. If the connection is loose, that'd explain the intermittent issues.

Mfg?

Is it the stock map sensor? I don’t know the failure rate. I wouldn’t upgrade to the 85mm until you dial it in. This could be a problem with the sensor or maybe the calibration or something. It is odd that it is fixed at like 6.7psi.

If you do get a new one then get something to handle the boost if you do go with the 85mm pulley because the stock doesn’t read more than 10 psi and even near that it is iffy.

mfg = manufacturer. Asking if he should get an omni or something.

If you do go to an 85mm, yes, an upgraded sensor would be good - but I agree with Justin, you need to get things sorted out with the car on the stock sensor before adding more power.