BTW for those looking at a larger TB solution, the stock 86 throttle body is the same one used on most of the recent V6 Toyota engines, it's 65mm. The Toyota 4.7L V8 used on the 4runner and Tundra use a 76mm TB. The connector and pinouts are the same as the 86, but the sensors do not read the same so the stock ECU cannot control it. However, you can drill out the rivets holding the electronics side of the TB on both of them and swap the motor and electronics housing into the 76mm TB and just bolt it all back together and it works fine.

I'm using the TRD SC which has the bolt pattern to use the larger 76mm TB, but a company URD makes an adapter so V6 Toyota folks can use the larger v8 TB and it will work with the BRZ as well.

It's only a 0-5v output, would just need some adjustment in the tune I would imagine.

There isn't a way to change those parameters in the tune, at least with Ecutek. You would also have to remap the commanded voltage to turn the motor a certain amount, since the motors were different. The voltages with the throttle shut weren't very close but at fully open they were, so it'd take quite a bit of tweaking. I thought of building an external circuit if it was a constant difference, but it wasn't.

Is the motor not linear as you would expect? Then just map the torque to throttle angle table. The issue that I would expect is the max/min voltage threshold that throw a CEL but these can be changed in the map. That being said, I assume that the ECU calibrates all these to some extent upon a reset so I may be wrong.

For those that aren't following, or for those that haven't seen my build, here is a pic:

I'm at the tuning stage; I'm sending data logs to DT, and they in turn are sending me revised tunes, so I haven't driven the car in boost yet, but she is running smoothly so far, and I can't wait to open her up.

https://i.imgur.com/1SbPvd2.jpg

Looks so OEM it might fool a ref. :bonk: Except for that harrop branding... hmm. :bellyroll:

Haha, I know man!

Is Harrop running a secondary set of pulleys for their track car? Like Kraftworks' supercharger, so if the supercharger pulley snaps then they can still drive the car, or do you guys think this is so they can run a thicker belt? I mean, their car is putting down like 440whp.

https://i.imgur.com/h54jTYV.png

Either the motor or the sensors are not linear. There is also some kind of calibration that compares the throttle angle voltage to the throttle plate angle sensor voltages. It doesn't seem to do any kind of calibration, or the voltages were too far off for it to get to that point. In the end it takes about 15 minutes to swap the physical parts, it would take considerably longer to deal with all of the various parameters in the ECU, and if you are just using the base Ecutek some of them aren't even available.

I think it's so they can clear the giant throttle body they're running. By moving the pulley forward, it gives them more clearance.

They probably also figured that running a belt with more ribs would help with slippage on the very tiny pulley, so they also covered that with their solution.

That makes sense. The throttle body has pretty tight tolerances as is.

Irace86,

How is the Harrop installation going? Are you just about finished up? Anxious to hear more about it.

The install is complete. I’m at the tuning phase right now with DT.

The problem I am seeing now might be insufficient fuel pressure for my pulley. Im using the 85mm or 11.5 psi. Doing a WOT datalog for DT I reached 1.84 bar or 12.1 psi, and maybe that is too much boost. I might try to drop the pulley to the stock pulley (95mm).

The second problem I’m getting is my boost gauge isn’t reading boost. I ran it off the brake booster line between the manifold and check valve, and I would get vacuum and at open throotle I would get 0 or atmosphere. It is essentially in the same location as before but for some reason I am not seeing boost. I see vacuum but even going to zero is hard for the gauge. I don’t know what to make of it.

How are people running a boost gauge for this setup? I had a T on my brake booster prior to the install. I got vacuum up to 0. I am running it in the same spot, and I was expecting to see boost, but I am not. I am between the manifold and brake booster check valve, so I thought I would be fine, but then again, Harrop might have a second check valve in the manifold. Does anyone know? Are there any ports on the manifold to run a line for a boost gauge?