Since the Harrop installation guide does not always make it obvious which parts are which, I decided to annotate the excellent marketing shot from Harrop that shows (nearly) all of the parts spread out on a table. Hopefully this will help other DIY installers.

I've also attached an image showing how the EVAP solenoid is mounted to the manifold since the manual is a little vague on this. The hose shown is connected to a barb on the bottom of the Harrop intake manifold (It is pre-installed and called out as the "Solenoid outlet" hose in my other image) The other barb on the solenoid will get connected to the EVAP Solenoid Inlet Hose. The other end of that hose goes to the EVAP purge line bundled over near the fuel lines on the (US) driver's side of the engine.

I hope this helps some people. I've also added the belt part number/specs to the image. I'll be trying to gather up other critical part numbers/dimensions as I go.

-Matt

Evora is a Harrop Charger too * edit 1320 SC Lotus Cars were Harrop Units.

Pics from the Harrop install with Neal at @The Racers Line

Firstly, Neal was an excellent guy to work with. Very professional, very helpful, very friendly. The whole process from placing the order with Harrop to getting the kit installed was easy. Great guy and I highly recommend him!

My impressions of the kit:

As everyone knows this thing is gorgeous. Even the shipping container is cool! All of the details were thought out with this kit. It is quality stuff.

The install of the kit was relatively easy. Neal had the whole thing done in around 8 hours. The hardest part of the whole install is wiring to the fuse box. You have to pull the whole thing out of its housing and it is a BITCH! Aside from that the whole thing went together seamlessly. Neal can certainly provide more insight though.

Driving. Well... the car was quick before the kit, but now it is fast. 2nd and 3rd gear pulls from 3500RPM push you back in your seat! The amount of torque that the car puts out is immense. There is no lag, just instant acceleration. The car pulls in every gear. Sitting at 65mph on the freeway in 6th gear, put your foot down and you still feel the car pull. This is such an improvement over NA.

Now, I am only running a 3" catback with the kit so there is still room for improvement. Overall though... I am happy with this amount of power. The car feels right. It feels well sorted and balanced, not over powered.

Tuning. I had Delicious Tuning do the work and again, such an easy process. Zach@Delicious was easy to work with and I feel we have the car optimized and performing really well. Again, I highly recommend them for those of you on the west coast.

Fuel Economy. Well duh... I am now well under 20mpg, but who really gives a shit? I am sure that could improve, but freeway onramp pulls are just too tempting!

What more can I say? Buy this kit. You won't regret it. Here are some pics from the install! Enjoy.

http://i.imgur.com/JgO7oiR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/KVrzn1G.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LxxmxjH.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Eaiio1u.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JmAMj4m.jpg

Looking good!

Has anyone used the small threaded port on the back of the manifold as a boost/vacuum reference for a standalone boost gauge? Once nice feature of these kits is that all of the vacuum ports are sourced between the throttle body and the supercharger so they never see boost (no need to upgrade your PCV valve). That does mean getting a reliable boost source is a bit more difficult than just splicing into an existing line.

I'm hoping someone has already used this location and can perhaps provide the thread type/size of the hole. If not, I'll pull the plug and figure it out (posting the results here, of course)
-Matt

Did Harrop have a both at SEMA?
Any update on CARB?

Well, you can add me to the list of owners. I finished up my install this weekend. My kit was used so a few small bits were missing (EVAP and front crank vent hoses and the coolant caps). Of course, to solve the missing parts problem I installed a Velox catch can with the coolant kit, complicating my total install... oh well. To round out the problems my battery decided to die so I had to use jumper cables to flash my Ecutek tune :P

Here are some observations. Note: When I say left or right I'm referring to left or right relative to the way the car faces... So for a USDM car "right" is passenger side, "left" is driver's side...

• As others have said, the instructions leave a lot to be desired. I studied them enough that for the most part I just did things in the order that was most convenient.
• The AC line bender seemed pretty useless. The instructions are for a RHD car and the AC lines are different on LHD cars. The location they say to bend would not have worked.
• The brake booster being on the other side of the car also made things difficult. The previous owner of the kit had an AT so he wouldn't have had to deal with it. I ended up just replacing the supplied vacuum hose with some standard 5/16" line and routing it in a way that made more sense. You do need to remove the hard line and bracket. I kept the J shaped hose to the master cylinder with the check valve in it.
• Pull all of the fuel lines and evap line from the little bracket and remove the bracket from the car. If you leave it hanging there removing/installing the driver's side injector cover is nearly impossible and the bracket will scratch your shiny new supercharger.
• Taking apart the fuse box is a MAJOR PITA! I thouht for sure I was going to break something a few times. Edelbrock has the better wiring solution for this by using the evap solenoid wiring rather than a fuse tap. I may rewire my system in the same way at some point.
• Attaching the low temp radiator is tricky. It seems simple, four bolts... But the top two are directly behind the crash beam making access tricky. I was about two minutes away from ripping out the crash beam to get clean access to the bolts, but it eventually cooperated. You may want to just pull the crash beam and save some frustration... or maybe you'll get lucky and it will just go together :)
• When you remove the belt guard from the alternator, don't screw the bolts back into the alternator bracket thinking you're being smart so you don't lose them later :) The left bolt fouls the supercharger pulley and makes for a bit of a head-scratcher when trying to get everything to line up.
• The factory wiring harness is always in the way... ALWAYS... The big bundle going into the injector ECU blocks access to the right-rear intake manifold bolt and the injector harness on the left side conspires with the AC line to make placing the manifold/sc assembly a real bear.
• Go ahead and remove the entire undertray back to the transmission... you WILL drop something... And if the thing you drop is you 10mm socket it just makes removing the undertray that much slower if you have to use an open-ended wrench because your 10mm socket is MIA. No, didn't happen to me because I have 5 million 10mm sockets, but I could easily see this hapening to someone else.
• Download the Edelbrock install manual as well. They have some more detailed pictures calling out exact bolt and clip locations for things like removing the front bumper and undertrays. Taking them off is easy enough, but the pictures help when putting things back on. Don't follow the edelbrock instructions though, the installs are quite different, just use the images as reference.
• Other than these observations, just take your time and keep track of all the various nuts and bolts and things will go together. It's worth it :)

I'm still on my preliminary DT Flash and go tune but already the car feels great. The low-end grunt was exactly what I wanted. And there is a hint of SC whine in there... My car is 100% stock otherwise so perhaps with a louder exhaust I wouldn't notice it. I was mostly struck by how loud the SC is just at idle. Not a blower whine but just hearing the rotors and gears turning away in there, even from inside the car. I mean, it shouldn't have been a surprise since the drive gears are right behind the dash and appear to be straight-cut... but no one else had mentioned it so at first I wasn't sure if it was normal.

-Matt

Pics or it didn't happen :popcorn:

Knew that was coming :) Here ya go...

Oh yea, :drool: (where is the lotion) :bellyroll:

Hey guys, new member and first time poster here!

I am currently in the process of finding/purchasing an 86/BRZ (and so am possibly a little premature in joining the forum).

I’ve been driving 86’s for some time now and am in love with the car, but compared to previous cars (WRX G3, SS Commodore VE) I am lusting over a bit more power.

I’m located in Melbourne not far from Harrop and have seen from reading through this thread that they have a great reputation for performance and reliability (essential as the 86 will be my daily driver). I have very limited mechanical knowledge and living so close to the Harrop HQ it seems crazy to not do the install there.

I was wondering if anyone in Aus has done the Harrop install at their HQ and how much it cost all up? Were there any other mods that were also needed that weren’t included in the install and if so how much did you end up having to spend in total? I would probably be modifying the exhaust beforehand but if this wasn’t necessary I may hold off and put the money straight into SC.

I recall reading somewhere that it was around 8500AUD total but I can’t seem to remember where I saw this figure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

That kit looks beautiful. Well thought out, not half assed.

Trempting but price on the high side compared to hks


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Its a different power delivery than a centrifugal SC so you need to decide which one you want based on that rather than price alone. Personally I drove the HKS europes V1 and V2 SC'd car running ~320hp o nthe V2. Below 4k it really doesnt feel any more torquey than stock. My cossy (similar to harrop) is quite pokey at 2500rpms.