Keeping your opti-coated car clean with as little effort as possible
 

Note: Where you see blue text, it means I’m still looking for clarification and advice, ideally from experienced practitioners/detailers/suppliers. Once we get to a resolution I'll edit this post to make it seem much simpler.

The detail in this post might suggest I’m some kind of detailing freak who wants to spend hours cleaning his car. The truth is the complete opposite, as I enjoy driving the car not washing it. So I’m just trying to determine the right gear and processes that will allow me to spend the minimum amount of time and effort keeping my car looking somewhat proud (this post is definitely not about concours level outcomes).

Regarding cost, Joel from ZAS has kindly offered members of the forum a 20% discount on Optimum products. I have provided links to the products that form a "kit" below. I will look to update the kit links and possibly divide into cost grades as more information becomes available.

This post assumes:

• You live in Australia.
• Your car is opti-coated.
• You don’t have ready access to a hose or are under water restrictions, so looking to use a “no rinse” bucket-based approach.

Gear for body panels:

• Washing liquid: Optimum’s No Rinse Wash & Shine 2012 formula (known as "ONR"). Review of new formula.
  
• Washing media: Lake Country Big Blue Foam Sponge or Optimum's Opti-Mitt (or some kind of microfiber mitt, but currently leaning towards the lake country sponge.)
• Drying media:
  • Initial wipe down: Optimum Edgeless Microfibre Cloth 40x40cm (2 or more).
  • Final wipe down: Optimum Waffle Weave Drying Towel 60x90cm.
• Buckets. Ideally, two 20L buckets, both with grit guards.
  
  • Possibly overkill, as posts like this and this suggest a single bucket, even without a grit guard, can be fine with ONR. So this might be an area to skimp on if you are having to work to a budget.
  • Weight and handling. As 10 to 15 litres of water is required to keep contamination to a minimum, they're going to be pretty heavy. So, a dolly can be convenient (albeit an additional expense) for both transporting them to the car and then moving around the car as you move from panel to panel. Will be investigating if something like this is the way to go, which also includes a seat but ends up being pricey.

Gear for windows:

• Washing liquid: Same as for body panels.
• Washing media: Same as for body panels.
• Drying media: Same as for body panels.

Gear for wheels & tyres:

• Washing liquid: Same as for body panels.
• Washing media: To be completed. Some kind of brush I assume?
• Drying media: To be completed. Some kind of terry cloth towels?

Gear for exhaust tips:

• Washing liquid: To be completed.
• Washing media: To be completed.
• Drying media: To be completed.

Gear maintenance:

• Lake Country Big Blue Foam Sponge: How do we maintain it? How long is it expected to last?
• Optimum Edgeless Microfibre Cloth: To be completed.
• Optimum Waffle Weave Drying Towel: To be completed.

Process:
The order to do things is just common sense, really. Think about where there will be runoff and ensure that you don’t start with panels that will have runoff fall on them later, when you do other areas of the car. To spell it out, the sequence is: Roof, Windows, Bonnet, Front spoiler, Boot, Side panels, Rear diffuser, Wheels. Here's a quick video illustrating the basic concept:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WL5A29qIjnc&feature=related"]video[/ame]

Preparation:

1. Fill both buckets, adding ONR to one of them (known as the wash bucket, the other is known as the rinse bucket). If it's cold, you can use warmish water (or wear gloves).

The sequence, for each area, is as follows:

1. Fill your wash media from the wash bucket.
2. Soak the area to be cleaned with the ONR solution. Do this by holding your wash media at the top of the area and allow the washing liquid to stream down and soak/flood the area a bit.
3. Optional: rinse wash media in rinse bucket and then refill the wash media from the wash bucket.
4. Carefully wipe the area clean with the wash media. Don't use too much pressure.
5. Rinse wash media in the rinse bucket, rubbing it against the grit guard if you have one. Then just leave it sitting in there whilst you do the next drying bits.
6. Wipe area with initial wipe down drying media. Again, look to pat and soak up, rather than rub.
7. Wipe area down with final drying media. Again, look to pat and soak up, rather than rub.
8. Repeat on next panel

ZAS offer:
Joel from Zen Automotive Suppliers has kindly offered 20% discount off Optimum products. Please contact him for details on how to obtain this. Note I am in no way affiliated with ZAS and receive no additional benefits.

For convenience, here are links to form the "kit":

• Bucket: 2 x Optimum's 20L Bucket with Grit Guard Insert
• Washing liquid: Optimum’s No Rinse Wash & Shine 2012 formula
• Washing media: Lake Country Big Blue Foam Sponge
• Drying media, initial wipe down: 4 x Optimum Edgeless Microfibre Cloth 40x40cm
• Drying media, final wipe down: Optimum Waffle Weave Drying Towel 60x90cm

Wow, amazing. I felt the need to break from my lurking ways and make an account to say thanks!
Cheers

When it comes to generally (non-optiguard specific) cleaning your car this is a fantastic tutorial...

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0Sqi1lAj1A"]Audi R8 BLACKBIRD: Basic Car Wash Techniques - DRIVE CLEAN - YouTube[/ame]

great way to get in depth of what goes on when washing a car. I'd never knew I was harming the paint on my car, meh it's ok (2nd hand anyways xD).

time to get buy a whole bunch of brushes and extra buckets. Thanks for the post @sticky!:thumbup:

No problem man!

If your looking at buying car wash products have a look on Amazon. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than any aussie store if you buy multiple items at once.

Great informative post!

Everyone has their personal favorite detailing products so there is no right or wrong.

Gear for body panels:
Washing liquid: Optimum’s No Rinse Wash & Shine if you cant do a proper wash, or any car wash shampoo is fine, personally i prefer Optimum Car Wash.
Washing media: Bowdens Own Muffy Sponge, suds up very well and has a microfibre layer on both sides or a Microfibre Wash Mitt
Drying media:
Initial wipe down: Optimum Edgeless Microfibre Cloth 40x40cm (2 or more).
Final wipe down: Optimum Waffle Weave Drying Towel 60x90cm.

Personally i would skip the "Initial Wipe" step, you want to minimize the amount of wiping your doing on the paint so go straight to the Optimum Waffle Weave and either pat dry or do small wipes, not long sweep ones across the paint that could induce marring.

Gear for windows:
Washing liquid: As Above
Washing media: As Above
Drying media: As Above
You may want to finish with the Optimum Microfibre Towel to buff off any visible streaks.

Gear for wheels & tyres:
Washing liquid: As Above
Washing media: Brush for inners - Like the Viking one sold by ZAS. And a small sponge for the face/spokes of the wheels.
Drying media: Optimum Waffle Weave Drying Towel (Separate to the body ones)

Gear for exhaust tips:
Washing liquid: As Above
Washing media: Small Sponge
Drying media: Microfibre Towel

Gear maintenance:
Lake Country Big Blue Foam Sponge: How do we maintain it? How long is it expected to last? Being foam there is no real maintenance just flush it with clean water after each use.
Optimum Edgeless Microfibre Cloth: Washing Machine - with a gentle detergent such as Eucalyptus Wash. Dont use anything with softners etc.
Optimum Waffle Weave Drying Towel: As Above.

If you keep on top of the regular cleaning it will make cleaning areas like inside the wheels and exhaust tips a breeze as it will only be light dirt not a build up of contamination.

I'd also add cleaning inside the wheels arches to your list, a lot of people miss this and your plastic guards end up turning brown. A quick wash of them each time will keep them nice and black and contamination free.

I'd also suggest washing wheels first not last, because you run the risk of the water drying on the paint and windows (water spotting) especially in the summer months whilst you are fiddling around cleaning wheels. Any suds that get on them from washing the car can just be hosed off anyway when rinsing the paint.

Another basic wash guide with instructions and steps can be found here: http://www.detailparadise.com.au/sho...rying-Your-Car

Happy Washing! :thumbup:

Thanks. Too kind.

Thanks for including the link. I'd actually seen it before making my OP and am personally unconvinced it is a great tutorial for people who prefer to drive than wash. It's certainly entertaining viewing but I suspect keeping a car looking modestly proud (rather than ready for concours) for a long time can be much less effort than that illustrated in the video. I'm also aware it breaks the assumptions of this thread, one of which was: "You don’t have ready access to a hose or are under water restrictions, so looking to use a “no rinse” bucket-based approach."

Thanks. And back atcha for all the contributions, which I will integrate into the original post (over the next few days).

Thanks for the tip but I'm not sure I completely understand. If the area has been washed and then thoroughly dried as per the described process, is there still a concern? And if it hasn't, won't it will water spot regardless of whether you're currently washing wheels or back inside having a well-earned cold one? What am I missing?

Won't have a chance to update the original post for a while. In the meantime...

Ordered the "kit" in the first post from Joel/ZAS early in the morning and had the safely packaged parcel in my hands the next day. Nice. Also ordered the following wheel wash media:
http://www.zas.com.au/product/495/vi...el_brush_.html
http://www.zas.com.au/product/497/vi...cle_brush.html

I haven't washed a car for years (always outsource it), but did my first "no rinse" wash on Saturday following everything in the first post except for using a 1L pressure sprayer (using "Quick Detailer" dilution ratios) to do the step 2 "pre soak". Result was a treat.

Also separately did some very quick spot detailing on Sunday, just to try the bucketless approach detailed here: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=138013. If you're thinking of doing this I recommend reading the thread in detail as you could do harm if you don't follow it carefully. Also be aware I used QD dilution ratios. Result was great.

Further reading indicates lots of debate about whether you need two buckets. I feel reassured by the wash bucket remaining clean but others (including ONR's inventor, I believe) swear the whole brilliance of the ONR product is that it's unnecessary. If you're interested, here is some related reading:
http://optimumforums.org/index.php?showtopic=892
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=195294

Handy tips:
Wash bucket dilution ratio: 2 caps per 8 litres.
Pressure sprayer dilution ratio: 2 caps per 1/2 litre.
(2 caps = 1oz; 1 US gallon = ~3.8 litres)

The Audi video is just how I used to wash my car.

Now, lets get dirty and start washing next week when I get my opticoat.

Any tyre shine and interior product suggestions?

BTW, the process described in my previous posts continues to work a treat. Other than the rock chips (which merely add character, of course ;)) I'd defy you to know the car's approaching 6 months old.

LFB i'm using an opposite drying method. Large size microfibre waffle weave towel, gently 'draped' over the panels to soak up the majority of water, then a smaller hand sized microfibre for spot drying / traditional chamois work.

One of the issues I'm having at the moment is stubborn water spots, usually on the roof. I am finding I have to wait until the second wash to get some of them off, if the car has been rained on then taken direct sun before it was washed. I could just wash them out with a bit of elbow grease on the first wash, but try to use at little pressure as possible to avoid swirls.

I'm considering a foam gun attachment for my pressure washer for presoaking, but have read about 65% negative reviews saying that they achieve very little.

You know, I think that's the same technique used by my lovely lady when team-cleaning the car with me. And I think the result ends up looking a little more sparkly. :)

I've probably been a bit fortunate that I've never had direct sun after rain before washing. I think you're wise to avoid pressure, but maybe you could try using a bit more presoak (at detailer dilution)?


I only use buckets and sponge/microfibre, so no thoughts, sorry.

Regarding my questions about interior and tyre care, I'm currently thinking of heading in the following direction:

• Tyres washing liquid/media: Tuff Shine Tire Shine Kit (possible problem: how to source this in aus?)
• Plastics/leather washing liquid: 303 Products Aerospace Protectant
• Plastics/leather washing media: To be completed.
• Alcantara washing media: Vacuum cleaner and then horse hair brush/occasional damp microfibre cloth.
• Interior windows washing liquid/media: To be completed.

Find a good local car wash with an effective spot free rinse. I now wash my car and after it has been rinsed I drive straight to the car wash and give it a spot free rinse. So I don't use a chamois at all

Glad to see you still around mate! How's your car holding up?

Meguiars endurance tire gel or optimum tire shine for the tyres. Endurance is more glossy and both last about 5 weeks.

Contrary to popular belief modern interior trims do not need any coating/conditioning unless your specifically after a glossy finish. In that case use 303 Aerospace protectant which leaves a nice matt finish. You don't want to go too glossy (like Armorall, dont get me started on that) otherwise you'll drive into a tree from the glare.

Frank