Ticking in motor. Normal?
 

Just cleaned my maf (WITHOUT TOUCHING IT) ((dont freak out)) just sprayed it inside the tube. haha. And put a new cone filter on my injen cai as the filter was beyond dirty. When i started it up there is a ticking. I can hear it from inside the car. I dont remember it sounding like that before, maybe it was the same. I dunno. Is this normal? Ive watched a few vids on youtube and most people have a tick. Maybe its because i unplugged the battery and its relearning? I dunno. Very fast tick, a few every second id say.

Even after it warms up and drives it still
Ticks

video?

I don't know how to post a video from my phone onto the forum. I don't have a url for it. these forum site templates really need to up their shit from 1998 lol. every forum I go on none can upload photos properly. its 2016!! geez

anyways haha, its not the cricket sound. its not high pitched or chirpy. just a tick. like something plastic is hitting metal over and over. if anyone can explain how to post a video with my phone on these archaic forums it would be much appreciated :)

Does it change speed when the rpm changes?

No but check engine light and trac control light are on now

I'd suggest you take back off what you took off, check the insides of everything (including the MAF), then put it back together (all of the pieces this time), make sure everything is assembled properly and is tighten down.


humfrz

upload your video to youtube and post the link to it here.

I have a feeling what the ticking sound is, just wanted to confirm before saying anything.

Maybe the ticking sound is just a coincidence? video? CEL is most like MAF code... +1 remove all/reinstall.
Something that happened to me once is somehow or another wires going to MAF got pinched or bent or something another idk what happened. But it happened durring an Intake install on a Mazda I had and took me forever to figure out that was the problem. So check wires for any small crimps that could be breaking connection to MAF.

EDIT: If you plan on throwing money at it trying to fix it like I use to on my cars, whatever u do don't buy a MAF from auto part store, get one direct from dealer. Just my opinion.

Probably just the normal injector tick. Sounds like you are gonna lose a lifter at any second. Just didn't notice it until after cleaning and listening closely.

Yah thatd be my guess. Sounds like others on the net. I assume its okay to clean our mafs with maf sensor cleaner? I sprayed it today. Maybe its the new k&n filter i put on my injen intake. But why would steady traction control light come on (car slipping orange light) and check engine light come on. Wouldnt let me engage vsc. Then trac control light turned off and i could but check engine light was on. Also dealer couldnt check codes with obd !? Why would that be. It wasnt even registering. Like a blank car. But two days ago they updated the ecu with the new idle codes. So they must have gotten into it then. Also my batter was unpluggd while i was taking apart the intake and adding the k&n. Could it be the ecu had not yet loaded. Dealer is only 10 mins away.

Does trac control light automatically come on with check engine light or something. Some sort of safety that doesnt allow u to turn vsc and trac off

If you are going to modify any OBD-II car, you should spend $20 and invest in a simple OBD-II code reader.

-alex

Well what would a 20$ reader do if the dealerships reader couldnt do it

The point is not to read the codes, the point is to clear them so that if it comes back, you can diagnose again.

Well no recent mods have been done. Has been fine for 3+ years

DANG, something is WRONG with that picture ........ :confused0068:

If, after making sure you put it back together proper, it doesn't straighten up and run right, I'd suggest you take it back to the dealer for a look see.


humfrz

Ive worked on cars for 10 years. I just was into jeeps. Repaired pretty much everything there is on those from intakes to rebuilding axles and transfer cases. First "new" car, but an intake is an intake. Its most definitley together properlly. Who knows maybe it was the k&n oiled filter on a dry filter intake. I have a full inspection booked for tuesday. They seem like they want to avoid any powertrain warranty talk.

You are in "limp mode". Probably from spraying the sensor. The code will need to be cleared.

This is good advice.

This :thumbsup:

Has been, until you decided to spray the MAF sensor.

Again: OBD-II cars (in general), you need to buy a $20 code scanner so you can figure out what is wrong. If it tells you no codes, you need to reset it so that the problem can be duplicated. This way, you can provide the dealer with additional information so they can help you.

It's like high blood pressure. Maybe it's horrible in the clinic when you go for a checkup, but you are fine on an almost daily basis when you test at home. The more info you document, the better off you are when it comes to solving your problem... and step one starts with a reader to diagnose your code.

Old cars would have you turn a knob or screw on the ECU to spit out codes. New cars give you a simple way to read it and clear it instantly.

-alex

To add onto this:

limp mode means you can't rev past ~5000RPM or so. You can test this out easily in first gear.

-alex

What did you spray it with?

Dude you just got a recient mod the dealer reflash, which will be a stock tune.

This is unlikely to be compatable with your injen intake and your agency power (assume catless header)

I think you likely have multiple problems now.

You have only owned car a short period and it was modded correct ?

I suspect it may have had tune at some point, the prevoius guy may have left tune in and the dealer has now flashed over it with stock rom.

You may also have the cam problems that were evident with early cars causing rough idle some were fixed with a reflash some required parts to be replaced like cam actuators ecu , oil control vavles or re shim cam sensor.

its ulikely the stock tune is going to run well with a injen intake especially the early model which wasknown to cause bogging and hesitation without a maf rescale and you also likely have catless header which will probably cause cel P0420 on the now stock tune.

As theother guys said you need at least a obd device to read codes and log fuel trims etc before you have any chance of sorting out what your problems are. You need to read cel codes from car to see if your getting codes for cat efficiency due your catless header or cam error codes due cam issues or rich lean codes due your intake or traction\vsc codes maybe due to stuffed wheel speed sensor or other issue.

or just take it to a seputable subaru shop forcthem to sort it

too many issues at once, not enough background info...

I get the traction light on and then eventually goes off as well as a check engine light that stays on. The codes were P068 I think (power train sensor ) and another code related to CAT performing below parameters that I thought might be improperly scaled MAF to the tune with my supercharger and the deleted CAT with my header. Was thinking of asking my tuner if he can correct this. For 2 days the check engine actually cleared by itself then returned.

If the lights started after the reflash its probably your intake. Otherwise maybe a wonky MAF but you would have to swap it out to be sure.

Maf sensor cleaner

Ihave beentold by previous owner and the shop thatdid all the work that it was never tuned and ran fine. That they are all boltons that didnt need a tune.


Injen is sending me a new tube to fix idle.

I was stalling and sputtering BEFORE the dealer ecu flash. Cleaned maf sensor and put k&n oiled fillter on dry injen intake and then shit hit the fan. Cel and tcs lights came on and stalled
More frequently

My question really js jf the dealer was able to get into my ecu to add new software, why couldnt they get into it to see what the codes were reading. Wtf would i buy an obd scanner when tbe dealer is 5 minutes from my house. They dont use a 20$ scanner. Those 20$ scanners are garbage

Whats wrong with spraying a maf sensor with specifically formulated maf sensor cleaner?

Why is a 20$ obd scanner better than the dealers 1200$ one?

The dealers obd couldnt even read my ecu. BUT two days ago the updated my ecu!????

HOW. Did the updTe ecu yet couldnt run codes? Id say the screwed up the obd prongs

Why would a20$ obd workbettr thanthe dealerships obd scanner???????

Read sig

Holy shit it doesn't work better... what it allows you to do is CLEAR your existing codes and therefore be able to REPLICATE the issue and possibly diagnose it at this time.


If you are flashing a code at this time and are in limp mode, you can change all you want but it'll stay in limp until you CLEAR the code.


This saves you the trouble/time/money/headache of having to go to the dealer and pay the fee they charge everytime you need to CLEAR the codes from your ecu.


It's a cheap purchase that in the long run ends up saving quite a bit of time and money if you plan on doing your own maintenance that won't need a trip to the dealer everytime something decides to throw a code.

I hope that made it CLEAR for you :)

Why couldnt dealer cleAr them? Hecouldnt evenget INTO my ecu. The car was a ghost. Unrecognizable. A 20$ obd wont do shit in this situation. But they got in two days ago to update ecu. So riddle me that.

im getting a headache from reading this.. *unsub*

their scanner fcked up!? just cuz it's worth 1.2k doesn't mean it can't be defective or that the tech couldn't have fcked something up like an idiot.

Eventually they are going to start to charge you diagnostic fees at at least $100 a pop.

Ya i have a diagnostic booked for tuesday morning

Try being the one dealing with it.

Or they fucked up flashing the ecu. Bending prongs or something and broke my female obd.