The point is not to read the codes, the point is to clear them so that if it comes back, you can diagnose again.

Well no recent mods have been done. Has been fine for 3+ years

DANG, something is WRONG with that picture ........ :confused0068:

If, after making sure you put it back together proper, it doesn't straighten up and run right, I'd suggest you take it back to the dealer for a look see.


humfrz

Ive worked on cars for 10 years. I just was into jeeps. Repaired pretty much everything there is on those from intakes to rebuilding axles and transfer cases. First "new" car, but an intake is an intake. Its most definitley together properlly. Who knows maybe it was the k&n oiled filter on a dry filter intake. I have a full inspection booked for tuesday. They seem like they want to avoid any powertrain warranty talk.

You are in "limp mode". Probably from spraying the sensor. The code will need to be cleared.

This is good advice.

This :thumbsup:

Has been, until you decided to spray the MAF sensor.

Again: OBD-II cars (in general), you need to buy a $20 code scanner so you can figure out what is wrong. If it tells you no codes, you need to reset it so that the problem can be duplicated. This way, you can provide the dealer with additional information so they can help you.

It's like high blood pressure. Maybe it's horrible in the clinic when you go for a checkup, but you are fine on an almost daily basis when you test at home. The more info you document, the better off you are when it comes to solving your problem... and step one starts with a reader to diagnose your code.

Old cars would have you turn a knob or screw on the ECU to spit out codes. New cars give you a simple way to read it and clear it instantly.

-alex

To add onto this:

limp mode means you can't rev past ~5000RPM or so. You can test this out easily in first gear.

-alex

What did you spray it with?

Dude you just got a recient mod the dealer reflash, which will be a stock tune.

This is unlikely to be compatable with your injen intake and your agency power (assume catless header)

I think you likely have multiple problems now.

You have only owned car a short period and it was modded correct ?

I suspect it may have had tune at some point, the prevoius guy may have left tune in and the dealer has now flashed over it with stock rom.

You may also have the cam problems that were evident with early cars causing rough idle some were fixed with a reflash some required parts to be replaced like cam actuators ecu , oil control vavles or re shim cam sensor.

its ulikely the stock tune is going to run well with a injen intake especially the early model which wasknown to cause bogging and hesitation without a maf rescale and you also likely have catless header which will probably cause cel P0420 on the now stock tune.

As theother guys said you need at least a obd device to read codes and log fuel trims etc before you have any chance of sorting out what your problems are. You need to read cel codes from car to see if your getting codes for cat efficiency due your catless header or cam error codes due cam issues or rich lean codes due your intake or traction\vsc codes maybe due to stuffed wheel speed sensor or other issue.

or just take it to a seputable subaru shop forcthem to sort it

too many issues at once, not enough background info...

I get the traction light on and then eventually goes off as well as a check engine light that stays on. The codes were P068 I think (power train sensor ) and another code related to CAT performing below parameters that I thought might be improperly scaled MAF to the tune with my supercharger and the deleted CAT with my header. Was thinking of asking my tuner if he can correct this. For 2 days the check engine actually cleared by itself then returned.

If the lights started after the reflash its probably your intake. Otherwise maybe a wonky MAF but you would have to swap it out to be sure.

Maf sensor cleaner

Ihave beentold by previous owner and the shop thatdid all the work that it was never tuned and ran fine. That they are all boltons that didnt need a tune.


Injen is sending me a new tube to fix idle.

I was stalling and sputtering BEFORE the dealer ecu flash. Cleaned maf sensor and put k&n oiled fillter on dry injen intake and then shit hit the fan. Cel and tcs lights came on and stalled
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My question really js jf the dealer was able to get into my ecu to add new software, why couldnt they get into it to see what the codes were reading. Wtf would i buy an obd scanner when tbe dealer is 5 minutes from my house. They dont use a 20$ scanner. Those 20$ scanners are garbage