I don't think it's any thinner or more delicate than on the rest of the car. It's just that the front takes more road-borne projectiles (rocks, grit, stray cardboard boxes that you can't avoid) than the rest of the car. Take your time and if you use heat keep it moving and you should be fine.

That one is on a thee month rotation so good for a while yet.

OK, @JFunk here is the promised test. Good luck!

humfrz

This is a timed test, you have till midnight tonight PST to complete it.

NOTE: Change 1 ... to midnight PST.

Yes, this is an open book test.


1. If your remote button nor your inside release lever will unlock the trunk, what is going on and how do you rectify that situation .. ??

2. If your engine sounds like a bunch of crickets, especially when you are going through a drive through, what is making that sound and what (if anything) can you do about it .. ??

3. What is the correct tire pressure for the OEM tires .. ??

4. How often/how many miles, should the engine oil be changed .. ??

5. Can the engine overrun the rev limiter, if so, under what conditions ..??

6. About how many gallons of gas are left in the tank when the low fuel light goes on .. ??

7. There are only two substances which should be added to the coolant tank .. what are they .. ??

8. When you pull up to the gas pump, which button do you punch .. ??

9. What is the first thing to check if you have an electrical problem (other than a dead battery) .. ??

10. There are four fluid levels that should be checked (from under the hood), what are they .. ??


Get set ....... GO!

Picking up my FRS tomorrow
 

1.

1. The trunk deactivation button is active and to fix it I just have to deactivate it by pressing it
2. Fuel pump, and nothing
3. 32
4.7500
5. You can't
6.
7.
8.93 or if there is no 93 91
9.
10.
Did my best couldn't at this hopefully the ones I did answer are good or even close.



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Not bad, so far, there @JFunk ......;)

1. Correct

2. Correct.

3. Close (if you check the decal in the door sill you will see that it is 35psi (60 psi for the spare).

4. Correct. (or 7.5 months, which ever comes first)

5. NOT correct. True the engine cannot exceed the rev limiter ..... going up ... but, it can ....coming down. For example if you are all revved up in 5th gear and are trying to downshift to 4th and mistakenly get it into 2nd, the engine will over rev. That's called a "money shift".

6. No Credit. How about 2 gallons (give or take some).

7. No Credit. The answer is either the blue coolant from Subaru or distilled (or demineralized) water.

8. Correct. The highest octane they have on the standard pump.

9. No Credit. The first thing to check is whether the fuse (or other type breaker) for that circuit is fried.

10. No Credit .. Coolant level, crankcase oil level, clutch/brake fluid level and battery electrolyte level.

You did pretty darn good ....... :thumbsup:

The mid-term exam will not be as easy ....... :eyebulge:


humfrz

This quiz is great! Everyone should take it. :D

Lol hopefully I get to know the car better, really want to be a frs/brz expert seeing as I expect to be with this car for a long time


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Love the quiz. @JFunk did better than I would have.

#10 extra credit - window washer fluid

Note on #7... Minimize (or none) the use of water (distilled or otherwise) as it promotes rust particularly with sustained high temps.

Well, you're on your way .... ;)

Hang around here and you will learn lots about your car.


humfrz

Good point about also checking the windshield washer fluid level ..... :thumbsup:

About topping off the coolant level.

Yes, I agree, 100% straight tap, demineralized, distilled or deionized water is not good for modern automobile cooling systems.

However, since the concentrated Subaru blue stuff is about 5% water and the premixed blue stuff is about 50% water, I maintain that if you're just "topping off" the system occasionally, it's OK to use distilled/demineralized or deionized water.


humfrz

agreed

:)

It's fine just take it easy and don't pry too hard.