After exchanging quite a few thoughts with @CSG Mike on my needs and opportunities for improvements, some SPL and Cusco bits will be added. Swaybars will remain stock, there will be less rubber in the suspension, and it should all play nicely with new JRZ doubles.

Good thread!

Here is what's getting added soon, courtesy of CSG via SPL and Cusco:
SPL Adjustable Rear Toe Arm
SPL Bumpsteer Adjustable Front Tie Rod Ends
SPL TITANIUM - Rear Traction Arm
956 464 AV - Front lower control arm front spherical bearing
692 464 BV - Front lower control arm rear bushing
965 464 LV - Rear upper control arm front bushing
965 464 IV - Rear upper control arm rear bushing
965 928 A - Differential mount collar
965 927 A - Rear subframe collars

Looking forward to trying these out with JRZ DA on 500lb/600lb (9k/11k) springs and Toyo RRs...with a little luck, may be ready for 3 days at NJMP with NASANE 6/17-19.

If you winter drive your FRS be prepared for a workout getting the OEM toe arms off.

I did during the 2014/2015 winter but it's been tucked away off season since. I'm sure that EFI Logics has seen their fair share of baked in parts. Thx for the heads up :)

I was very surprised how nice the car is for daily driving even with all the mounts and bushings. Our cars are great at having the frame take it all and not have stuff vibrating all over the place like some cars. I would recommend doing all the stuff I've done even for non-track canyon carving enthusiasts. I barely feel any vibrations. I do feel what the car is doing much more and things are more responsive and solid feeling.

I have my eye on the "Whiteline KCA 435 front roll center bump steer correction kit" but haven't bought it yet as I'm undecided if I need it.

Here's a list of what I have so you don't need to visit my build thread, even though you should. ;)

Whiteline KCA416 Front Camber adjusting bolt 16mm
Whiteline Rear Control arm - upper inner bushing (camber correction) KCA326
Whiteline Front Control arm - lower inner front Anti-Dive / Caster Correction Kit KCA434
Whiteline Front Control arm - lower inner rear bushing W0509
WhiteLine Rear Crossmember Mount Bushings KDT922 Positive Traction Kit
Whiteline Front Sway Bar with bushings Front 20mm Fixed BSF45
Whiteline Rear Sway Bar with bushings 16mm Adjustable BSR53Z
Whiteline Front Steering - rack & pinion mount bushing KSR210
Whiteline Rear Trailing arm - lower front bushing W63414
Perrin Poly Rear End Links
Front strut tower bar
Perrin front control arm brace
Subaru Impreza OEM Conical Washers (Subaru P.N # 20326AA000)
RCE TARMAC 2 COILOVERS
Whiteline Gearbox Positive Shift Kit KDT926
Perrin Rear Shifter Bushing
Whiteline KDT925 Rear Diff - mount in cradle & support outrigger insert bushing
MTEC Shift Spring Kit
Chase Bays stainless steel clutch line
Autozone slave cylinder (smaller than stock)

Your roads must be nice up there (actually a friend from OR here this weekend commented how terrible our roads are).

I'm Ground Controls, solid mounts front and rear and 255/35 Star Specs. The ride is atrocious and loud. And I'm about to put SPL LCAs on the car to get some travel back and be able to adjust the camber.

They are usually good.

The less flex/play your bushings have, the more load/work gets passed on to your dampers. It'll really reveal the quality of your dampers...

You seriously have to see the quality of our roads. It's atrocious.

I'm visiting Portland in about 8 weeks to see if I want to get out of this corrupt, underfunded conservative hell hole!

Love the suspension upgrades on track, very tight and precise between JRZs and metal-on-metal joints instead of rubber bushings but not snappy

It would be helpful if these individual pieces were bundled into packages where each component compliments the other and represents the most logical progression order.
I hate to use an over used term but in effect Stage I Stage II etc.

That's exactly what I wanted to do with this thread after more feedback. Having gone though a major change, I do see it more as Stock/Stage1/AllOut - you either leave it close to stock and change dampers and a few items that give you camber, eliminate larger movement, and similar...or go all out to chase the razor sharp handling that this platform can be after a large enough investment.

Would be very happy to get votes on options that belong to Stage 1/2/3 and compile into the top post.

It is happening also on our cars. Reason is not the high G corners, but the height difference in the car. When you change the suspension, you usually decrease also the wheel fender gap. Factory end links were designed for the OEM height and if you keep the same links, then the stress on them is much bigger. It is just likely to happen failing in high G corners.


Too bad that most of the aftermarket coilover brands (even big names) don't provide updated end links. They just take your money and leave you alone to think about all these details. :(