How accurate is FRSProject?
 

So it seems like http://www.frsproject.com/ is no longer up and running. This is the source I used to determine what adapters I need to get my wheel's flush.

I am currently running +48 offset wheel's with custom made 28mm adapter's. This would bring my offset to +20, yet when I went to mock fit it, it poked like CRAZY. When I ran what +20 offset wheel's would look like on projectfrs, it projected that it would be flush with the body. I feel like an idiot not double checking this before purchasing custom adapter's. I am also completely stock suspension.

Here are the mock fit:

http://i.imgur.com/MOqJJ0u.jpg

So were the fitment on frsproject completely wrong?

"flush" depends on what alignment, what make/size of tires, and what point on the car you are measuring the "flush" part from.

I had always assumed flush, or at least on frsproject, was flush to the fender.

I haven't messed with the alignment on the car since I got it. Regardless of tire size (even if I went 215 on my 17x8), would this not be considered a poke? Going 215 might not make the tires bulge out but it seems like the wheel is poking out quite a bit. :iono:

Picture doesn't work, but you gotta take into account the wheel width AND tire size and a meaty tire size makes a more poke-y look.
I believe, with my set-up which is 17x9 +35, it's flush in the rear at -1 camber (I'm at -2 now) and and a bit poked in front. Take into account how many mm you get each inch you add to the wheel. So a 17x10 would poke a lot more even with offset being higher like 17x10 +48.

Hmm I did not know that. Somebody in another thread told me that the only thing that matter's is offset - so for example 17x7 +20 offset is going to have the same poke as 17x8 +20 offset.

By the way would you mind explaining the logic behind how the 17x8 would poke more then the 17x7 even though they have the same offset? Wouldn't the extra 1 inch width just go inside the wheel well?

Edit: Pic should be working now.

The extra width goes both ways I believe. I don't know the specifics, but thats why anybody with a rocket bunny build either has a wheel that's 18x9.5 -25 or 18x11 +8 or something.
The offset does push the wheel out more, but they wouldn't make super wide wheels width wise if it goes into the wheel wells. At that point, almost no car would be able to use them lol. Imagine a 18x10.5 +30 going into the wheel well. That would just stab into it.
What wheel size are you looking for?

The extra 1 inch is divided evenly if they have the same offset, so half an inch would go outwards and the other half inwards. The full 1 inch would go inwards if the 17x8 has an offset that's half inch higher, so roughly +33

I am currently trying to fit 17x8 +48 wheel's with 28mm adapter's on 215/45/17 tires on stock suspension. I typed in all this specific information on frsproject and it said it would make the wheel's flush with the fender. Looking at my picture it doesn't look flush to the fender at all.

17x8, +48 is pretty much perfect (functional) fitment on its own. No need for that spacer.

Unfortunately the wheel's I bought were 5x114.3 bolt pattern so the adapter's were necessary.

So at this point do you guys think I should just sell these wheel's and buy something that fits better? I don't mind if it's not hella flush but is this simply too much poke? I'd really like to keep these wheel's if possible and the adapter's are unfortunately non-refundable.

Either you sell the wheels and buy something that fits, or if you can get adapter plates that are less wide you could make it work aswell. Another option is to work on your suspension/camber

I'm also a bit puzzled that nobody asked you if you're lowered or not, and also that the wheel, once you fit tires on it and actually put the car on them will sink in compared to having them just mounted without the car putting the weight on the suspension.
Also tire choice makes a big difference.

Doing the math I come up with a slight poke, which you could deal with using camber bolts and springs, or better, coilovers wher you can set the camber.

Example. Your 8x17 +20 is about what a 9x17 +32 would be. The 9" wide wheels in the range of +35 to +40 are about flush (depending on tires and suspension and bla, but more or less) So we are actually talking about 3-5mm poke.

Some example pictures:
This is 8.75x18 +35 (so about 8x17+25 in your case), add another 5mm to this and you are about what it looks on your car - on stock suspension

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=75

Now the same setup 1" lowered, with almost factory camber

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=172

This setup is on 245 tries, so you could louse 20mm tire wide when you go with a 225 tire. The wheel itself would still poke a bit, but the tire would be more or less inside the fender. (you can see on the picture that the tire pokes more than the wheel)

I'm not telling you your setup is ideal, but its also not that horribly off and non fixable. Either get 15/20mm adapter plates if you can, or get coilovers/camber bolts, either way you could fix your issue.

I would check with a garage/tuner you trust in your area, and get a proper offer on what you could do to make it work. Again, its not ideal, but it is not poking that much as it is when you make a mock up without putting the car weight on the wheels.

Hope this helped a bit, feel free to shoot me a message if you need more math done

Are you taking into account what the wheel looks like with actual weight on the suspension.

It may be closer to flush if the car wasn't jacked up in the air.

Don't know how you can do that though without a tire.

I mentioned in a couple of posts above that I am currently running stock suspension.

I will be running 215/45 tires so that should reduce the tire poke ever so slightly.

Also would the wheel actually sink in a bit once I put it on the ground even if I am on stock suspension? I had heard it will only sink in if you are lowered or you adjust your camber. (not sure how true this is.)