Clutch height adjustment
 

Hey guys,

I was just wondering if anyone here in melbourne has done the clutch height adjustment to their car? I'm really keen on doing this to improve shifting and have read this thread here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8040

But it seems like LHD and RHD is totally different?? Anyone here done it and can possibly help me out? Or know someone/mechanic that is competent in the 86 to get it done for me?

Thanks guys, any help appreciated!

Hugo Not sure about the height but if you have not replaced or removed the helper spring on the pedal you should. Much better clutch feel. Sandy

I understand for RHD vehicles, due to physical constraints, the helper spring removal is a real challenge. It's almost better to remove the pedal assembly first. I think height adjustment is the same for both.

Before considering spring removal, I suggest this mod.

Removing the pedal assembley is not hard.The complete job takes less than a hour

Agreed.

Hi, I have and it is very easy. You'd need a very short 12. around 5-6 cm. I cut off mine to get to that size as no one sells one that short.

undo the nut then rotate the shaft of the hydraulic anti-clockwise while pumping the paddle. You move it millimeter by millimeter.

Test drive then tighten the nut.

Warning: the gaps are very small so you would have put your head down near the paddle with a torch to be able to see it.

clutch pedal adjustment for RHD vehicles:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54RrACeyjCA&t=9s[/ame]

clutch spring replacement for RHD vehicles:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DKBRYQdBpY[/ame]

Does this actually change the clutch travel at the gearbox or just the pedal height in the cabin?

I think the adjustment changes the catch point for the clutch, not the pedal height? But I am not sure.

this changes the pedal height in the cabin, not the clutch plate travel.

Ok so how is the actual clutch engagement adjusted?

I think completely removing the helper spring causes premature wear on the clutch. It also leaves a lot of "play" in the pedal. After driving with no helper spring for a few weeks I tried out the Mtec clutch spring. That is the way to go, imho. Slightly stiffer pedal feel, more obvious engagement point, and no play at the top of pedal travel.

After messing around with the clutch adjustment a few times, I think pedal height and engagement point are linked. Do a test drive with the clutch pedal below the brake pedal and then drive it with the clutch pedal above the brake pedal. You will see what I mean.

I suggest setting the clutch pedal height just slightly above the brake pedal instead of slightly below as suggested by the OP in that thread.

Pedal throw has a direct corresponding relationship with clutch throw. The hydraulic mechanism is self-adjusting just like the brakes. At the top end of travel, a port to the reservoir opens to allow everything to come to equilibrium. A light spring in the slave cylinder takes up slack and keeps the TOB in constant light contact with the pressure plate fingers. Yes, the TOB is always spinning. As the clutch wears over time, it comes to rest further and further back on the quill until the pressure plate eventually can no longer apply enough spring force. Then the clutch begins to slip.