Help, and quick if possible!
 

Today I took my turbo, flex fuel, gauges, and so forth off the car.
Car is almost 100% stock now. still have a danso 265 fuel pump. I reflashed with an ecutek stock rom.

Car wouldn't start for the life of it. Finally got it started and it was a very rough, like 400rpm idle. Then it was going thru this revving like 700-1400 rpm rev all on its own, then mellowed out to 700-800 rpm and was idling like normal.
After a few minutes I pressed the gas and the car just stalled out. I then restarted it and it started back up rough but went to a mellow 700-800 idle again but a lot quicker this time.

CEL P1235 - High Pressure Fuel Pump Circuit

Car did have about e30 left in the tank even after running it very dry. Just to try to get that lower I put in about 4 more gallons of 91 octane.

Car, as I speak is idling, a decent 700-800 idle but haven't tried giving it has again.

What do you guys think the issues might be?

are the port injectors stock or higher flow ones ?
is map sensor stock ?

All my injectors are stock, now.
Map sensor is stock also, now. Wasn't when I was turbo, put stock back in.

Just died while letting it idle.
Doesn't want to start back up again either. Not with ease.

Did you touch the fuel pump when stocking out the car? Everything was working beforehand? If you have the Ecutek cable monitor the DI rail pressure. If you are able to get it to start and it idles with less than about 4 bar and the fuel trims are very high it's likely you have some sort of fuel supply issue. Unfortunately there's no low pressure fuel rail monitoring on these cars.

When the car idles it typically uses port injectors. When you tap on the gas it will switch to DI. If there's something wrong with those it will in all likelyhood stall out. Check connectors on the DI driver box, check grounds, make sure the connector on the top of the DI pump which is the pressure control solenoid isn't damaged or unplugged.

I didn't touch the pump at all. Car was a'ok before hand.

DI drivers box, where is this?

I tried my best to circle it here:

http://i.imgur.com/YTyGl1T.jpg?1


http://i.imgur.com/3vUJC3G.jpg?1



People were running into issues with this after installing crawford power block and not using included hardware that is used to ground the box out, the box literally uses where it mounts as a ground.

Also I thought I should comment you can read through this thread for some diagnosis help:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12428

I think I might have missed putting the bottom bolt on.. Now that I'm looking at it.

Where does it ground at? All the connectors are tight, I didn't even take them off to begin with.

As I said, it grounds at the bolts and through the engine block. Alot of people had this problem with a "riser" that came with the crawford billet power blocks, people weren't putting the spacer for those bolts on and just leave it tucked to the side and cars were failing to start.

I'll have to check that tomorrow. It's a little late now.

Update tho... I unplugged the battery for a while and then reconnected it and started the car. Started first try, no issues, idled good and I could rev the engine. Everything seemed perfect. I let it idle for almost an hour, no issues. I backed it out of the garage, CEL popped up and it stalled. Car doesn't want to start again, acting just like it did from the get go.

I did forget to mention earlier too. Act 6 puck and lightweight fw too.

Then it may not be the driver box then @steve99, do you know what would reset with the battery disconnected like that that allows a start but not movement (rpm increase)?

Any reasoning the danso 265 would be causing the issues?
Man. This sucks.

Seems to be fixed!
I went out and took off the passenger injector shield, unplugged and removed the DI box and was just going to start from scratch.
First I noticed the bottom most plug on the DI was loose, still attached but loose. secondly I noticed the bottom most bolt was missing. So I put the shield back in, then I put the DI in but attached the bottom most bolt to the block to ground it, then reattached all the plugs firmly. Done! It works! Runs smooth and no CELs!
I believe the reason why it was working last night when I was idling but went out when I reversed out of the garage was due to either that plug vibrating loose or the ground vibrating off the bracket since it wasn't attached.

I did a quick lap around a few blocks and shut it on and off a few times wth no issues. I believe as of right now it's fixed!

Thanks a lot guys for pointing me in the direction of the DI!