I had an interesting occurrence with your clutch fork. A few months ago I had to get the TOB replaced because the one which came with my south bend clutch was faulty. The shop tried to pin it on the Velox fork, by saying, they didn't think it was "made for my car." No problems with the fork, just something funny that was told to me by the lead mechanic. :lol:

Another customer sent me a neat testimonial (below)! We are briefly out of stock but are working diligently to bring units back into stock. Should be early next week.

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/b...085390~mv2.jpg

"Just wanted to thank you for making such awesome parts. Replaced my clutch over the weekend and put in the Velox clutch fork, pivot and bellhousing cover. Couldn't be happier, it shifts nice and smooth again. My OEM fork was pretty messed up. - Kelvin Ko"

Feel free to send us feedback anytime, the good, the bad, and the ugly. We're always open to listening. Sales@velox-motorsports.com

Thanks,
Eric

is there anything wrong with the oem pivot? I have not heard or read of any failing. just curious. I was going to order the fork today but seen it was out of stock lol.

We've seen a few break: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=114

We can't fully know how or why that one broke though. Most guys just want the pivot for the peace of mind. I don't recommend it like I do the clutch fork, but it's there for those that want it, and I'd say about 70% of the people *do* want it.

Thanks,
Eric

It has failed. And it is in the middle of the transmission, so if it fails you have to pay a boatload of money for someone to completely disassemble everything to replace that tiny piece. So if you are having someone do all that work might as well replace everything at the same time.

Yea I plan on it. Was just curious.

Just installed my fork and pivot this weekend its a shame its such a nice looking part and i will never see it again. Is there a video of this thing being made?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hw...=w756-h1343-no

We have a few short videos from our machinist but nothing of the whole thing. I keep asking him to purchase a Go-Pro so I can make some videos of the stuff he produces for us...

Thanks,
Eric

I got my clutch fork and pivot in this weekend and it feels amazing. I was having really bad lockout issues with my act clutch with streetlite flywheel. Switched over to a southbend stage 2 with oem flywheel with the velox clutch fork and it is 1000x better. Not sure where the root of my lockout problems was from but this set up feels really good so far. Fingers crossed though :)

We have some exciting news to announce again on this product line.

We have been working for the past 6 months or so on an even stronger unit using a better manufacturing technique, forging. Forging forces hot metal into shape which aligns the grain structure of the material in a better way than machined billet. We then heat treat and cryo treat these units to further improve strength/hardness/overall structure.

Below are images showing, through FEA, the difference from OEM, to billet, to forged. The scales are all set to the material's yield strength to keep viewing simple and easy. Purple/red is bad and blue is good as far as the stress plots are concerned.

OEM 1
http://i.imgur.com/PcYc6Vm.png

Billet 1
http://i.imgur.com/75K93wd.png

Forged 1
http://i.imgur.com/w0cUPkS.png

OEM 2
http://i.imgur.com/r4xanBN.png

Billet 2
http://i.imgur.com/Jj5nuHL.png

Forged 2
http://i.imgur.com/KgermKs.png

The billet/machined units have and continue to work flawlessly in the market. The forged unit will (hopefully) be easier for us to keep in stock which was another reason for this move towards the newer unit.

We will work on having product images shortly.

Thank you,
Eric

Any idea of price range for the forged fork compared to the billet unit ?


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Pricing will remain the same.

With the numbers we are moving in the first ~year, forging makes sense for the long haul. It will also allow us to keep more in stock without running out which has happened with the machined unit multiple times. Like I stated, the machined units are not *in any way* deficient. While they are not as strong as the forged units, they are more than strong enough to handle the loads necessary to actuate the clutch.

Yes, they will look different. They are both genuine Velox/Verus items though... and we stand behind both.

Thanks,
Eric

I deleted my original post because of a typo and @Eric had already answered. Whoops.

when will the new forged parts be in stock? I need to order a fork and pivot very soon.

Time to install my new Exedy clutch / flywheel setup and I'm looking forward to adding the Velox clutch fork and pivot!

Admittedly, I'm looking forward to having to have my clutch replaced.

They're in stock and ready to ship.

Mine is getting installed with my new upgrades over the next week or so. Will report back with results. :)

Just passed the break in period on my new clutch setup - Exedy OEM pressure plate, Exedy Stage 1 clutch disc, Exedy lightweight flywheel, and Velox fork and pivot point.

WOW! I'm in love with my car all over again. The smoothness of the OEM pressure plate mixed with the beefy fork make shifting feel like BUTTER! I regularly drive Porsches and the clutch feel is superior now. My previous setup used the same OEM pressure plate - I can tell the fork has made a big difference there. I don't know if it's a placebo effect or a result of moving the transmission around, but even the shifter itself feels better, smoother when going into gear. I have knee issues and this has very much improved my driving experience.

I had my doubts at first about upgrading the fork but can definitely say it was a wise decision to go with Velox - this should be standard with every clutch replacement!

When my clutch or TOB goes out I was thinking about upgrading the fork aswell. You say the clutch feel is better than a Porsche now? Did you remove the clutch spring and do the clutch height adjustment as well or did just upgrading the clutch disc, flywheel, fork and pivot cause the change in feel?

I've been running the MTEC clutch spring - I couldn't deal with the soft, vague feel of the OEM clutch setup. Currently when the clutch disengages it gives out with no tension pushing back - the first time I pressed it in I almost put my foot through the floor. I think it's wonderful given the traffic on the turnpike every morning. I played with the clutch height adjustment and will continue to do so further until I find a sweet spot.

Porsche is known for their quality on all components for sure, the clutches are smooth but less aggressive and precise than I prefer. I'd say my clutch setup currently feels like a freshly honed Wüsthof knife slicing through vegetable matter as it if were air. I chatted with Steve over at Exedy about the ideal clutch setup - the OEM pressure plate spares my knee while the stage 1 friction surface offers slightly improved engagement with a bit more longevity for the inevitable track day. The upgraded flywheel is a must on all my cars - I love the quick response and I'm "that guy" who rev matches on the street. The only "drawbacks" are a slight jerk / bang when shifting hard (diff bushings need to be upgraded) and some reverberation transmitted into the car around 3,000 RPM in third gear when cruising - but that's to be expected with the sporty nature of the components. Next to no gear lash noise and honestly I wish there was more.

Got mine installed; and im running into some issues.

Sometimes, everything feels awesome. However, after I do a hard pull - sometimes the pedal gets really soft and I cannot shift. When this happens, I pump the clutch again and its back to normal.

Fluids are good, no leaks, slave cyl looks good, brand new ACT Stage 2 & flywheel installed by a local tuning shop that specializes in the 86 platform.

Any ideas? Pointers? We initially tried to bleed the system to resolve and that did not help. New idea is some sort of fork spring assist like on most EJs. - Picture attached for reference of what we're thinking.

I don't see how a spring like that (that is not a strong spring from the picture) would do anything for engagement/disengagement.

How many miles are on the car? Have you checked if the master and slave are solid still? Admittedly I only know the symptoms of a failing main/slave (clutch pedal changes engagement points) but do not know how to test if they are leaking? That is my thoughts.

Thanks,
Eric

28K miles on the car. And yes, that spring picture was just a reference point.

It's blizzare. fluids are new-ish and system was just bled. Mechanic checked slave/master and it seemed ok.

ACT stage 2 with the heavier flywheel option (lighter than stock, but not super lightweight). I just can't seem to get consistency out of the setup.

Clutch physically getting stuck engaged/disengaged? Bleed it again?

It's just super sloppy feeling engaging after a strong pull. then it's back to normal. does not feel like a physical stop, it feels like a bubble in the system, but it's been bled.

FYI, That fork assist spring is only used on the pull type clutches on the WRX and STI. The spring keeps tension on the fork so that the release bearing doesn't come dislodged from the pressure plate assembly.

If you are losing pedal pressure it is most likely an issue with the clutch hydraulic system. If it were a pressure plate issue the clutch would slip when your experiencing the soft pedal.

Yup, understood and agreed. Shop has it back and the trans dropped. They're checking all torque specs on the clutch, making sure the Velox fork/pivot 100% matches OEM, etc.

The spring idea was more of a thought to keep items aligned w/tension, as you described.

I'll update once I get some news. I just dropped off the OEM clutch fork / pivot so everything can be checked.

Im highly doubting a problem exists with the clutch hydraulics. I had 0 issues before the clutch swap, and the vehicle is very low mileage.

Wanted to get back with you (and the thread) on this.
- Shop dropped the trans, the pressure plate from the clutch (ACT) had very uneven pressure plate teeth.
- Sent to ACT for RMA replacement; the replacement pressure plate we got back was just as bad, maybe worse.
- Refunded the clutch and moved to an Exedy stage 2. Problem solved.

Everything is butter smooth. Now I just need to get used to the Exedy clutch catch point (basically with 0 pressure on the clutch pedal).

Shifts, engage/disengage via the fork is easy and improved. Thanks!

Glad to hear you got it all ironed out. Something I need to look at next time my trans is off it sounds like...

Thank you,
Eric

what were the conditions that cause the original item to fail?

i am running high power, with a twin plate clutch on a modified gearbox but an OEM fork and pivot.

What ultimately matters is the clutch, not power. You could be running a de-tuned NA and if you're running a high pressure pressure plate, the clutch fork is likely moving quite a bit.

So to get to the point, yes, you likely are seeing some movement and the clutch fork may potentially fail. Patrick, earlier in this thread, goes through his experience with an Exedy twin. It was very difficult to drive before the fork, after the fork the twin disc acted like a normal clutch again.

Let me know if you have anymore questions.

Thanks,
Eric

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im running this guy here.
http://www.xtremeclutch.co.uk/produc...3/KSU20526-2B/

Clamping Force 1000kg
Torque Rating 1200Nm
Bearing Contact Diameter 44-52mm
Bearing Load (@ 48mm) 218kg
Release Travel Required 6mm
Assembly Mass (without flywheel) 7.4kg
Disc Set Static Mass 2.15kg
Friction Thickness New 7mm (0.275")
Friction Thickness Worn 6.48mm (0.255")


sounds like im going to have to get one from you guys.
my clutch is an absolute c*nt to drive.

Anything stronger or heavier than stock, I'd *highly* recommend installing our fork with it. I've heard and seen far too many stories with every brand of clutch for this platform either fail completely or bend in the bell housing (vague pedal feel, engagement point that changes, random gear lock out, etc).

Thanks,
Eric

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yeah i get locked out of reverse sometimes... i thought it was the upgraded PAR gearset, but perhaps all these issues are in the fork and pivot.

it says the fork is rated for 1000lbs pressure plate? I have a 2200lbs pressure plate. is that a problem?

No, it will not be a problem.

Being locked out of reverse sometimes is not uncommon though, just a part of reverse gear. I think it has something to do with the extra gear in there (idler) which doesn't allow the gear to move to allow you to select it at times when you aren't moving.

Thanks,
Eric

What do you think of that clutch ?

dont get it if your car isnt a toy. its a pain in the ass if you are ever in traffic.
its not an on/off light switch, you can slip it if you really need to , but you will smell the clutch if you try to drive it like a normal clutch. it likes when you are brutal to it.

but it sure handles the power alright!
im hoping the new clutch fork totally fixes the annoying problems and makes it more controllable.

i am at 331KW on a hub dyno. not sure how that relates to an american power level.

Just get fatter tires to reduce slippage when you dump the clutch

We have not updated this thread in awhile but we have a new offering with the fork we are excited about. I know it is nothing revolutionary but we have now created an internal kit to offer with the clutch fork.

As some of you may know, Toyobaru issued a TSB for the TOB (throwout bearing). The grease within the TOB was found to be inadequate at dealing with the heat during operation, which causes premature failure. The Toyota/Scion TSB is S-SB-0012-17 if you would like to look it up.

Anyway, we now stock no less than 10 TOB and clips (shown below) that can be added on during checkout. https://www.verus-engineering.com/pr...30-clutch-fork

https://i.imgur.com/Q4q9KO9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BCq4SvC.jpg

Happy motoring! :burnrubber:

Thanks,
Eric