Help? Not sure where to start
 

In short,

On the highway in 4th, heard an odd noise, slow down as I'm making my exit, get down the gears proper to neutral before the light, no power.

All my lights cut on as if I just turned on the car for the electronics only. Same thing continues to happen when I try to start it now. It'll click, the electronics come on, but the engine won't start. No issues this morning driving to work, really not sure what's wrong.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ow0EMCBYpOo"]BRZ 2013 won't start - YouTube[/ame] (better explanation.)

No smells, no leaks, no smoke.

Check battery connectors. It seems like either you connectors are loose or battery is almost dead.

This happened to my buddies new WRX. I'll go take a look.

First thought, dead battery.
How's the weather been? Petty hot?

Then again, who knows? Could be a failing alt, or starter, injections?
Did you try jump starting it? Have a buddy and his car try it. If no luck, then could be a totally dead battery.

I'll try giving it a jump after the Warriors game.

Connections seemed fine, going to have a friend take a look.

Battery or alternator. Check those two. I'm betting its probably just the battery going bad.

I had the same problem a couple months ago. Turned out it my starter's stud holding the power line snapped off (guessing the tech overtorqued the nut when I replaced the transmission) so it wasn't getting power. Could also be battery

2013 that just hit 40,000 miles. I do drive to work 30 mins both ways a day and make trips to Sac or Vallejo often.

I left it in the drive way while I went to watch the game. Came back and the battery has not seemed to drain one bit at all. Everything still cuts on without fault or more dimmed.

I get one or two clicks as I try to start it before it gives up.

Going to check this out as well.

What kind of noise did you hear?

That looks like it's in a limp mode/security mode on the ECU.
I mean you can check for 12.7VDC on your battery and if thats present..take it down to auto parts store to be load tested. If it's 12.4VDC or less then you can start to suspect a alternator issue as that -normally- means 80% charge capacity is present. That would still start it. I'd think these would have a LVC cutoff of 11.5 which is around 20% capacity. Anything above that and it should still crank (i'm not 100% sure just a theory, i dont really wrench on new cars)

10.5VDC is dead.

I still suspect your in some form of "protect" mode whether your fob is not communicating correctly, your ignition switch is faulty or your ECU is in protect from a serious fault.
Try a hard reset of ECU, disconnect negative battery terminal.


Those are good starting points

While driving it was a odd knock as if I wasn't in hear properly, but I was in 4th already. Then I've heard nothing but the sounds present in the video.

Update:

Jumped it this morning. Got a better response for it trying to start. Gave me hope twice before it killed out again back to just the clicks heard in the video on start.

Going to check on that ECU reset later after work.

Disconnected my battery and no dice. Also the battery seems to be just fine. Doesn't sound like the alternator at all either. Not really sure what's going on.

When I get a jump it tries to crank before going back to two clicks again.

Time to scan for codes....

Also clicks as in like mechanical noise in engine bay? or clicks as in noise inside car?

If clicks upon starting in engine bay, possibly issue with plunger not engaging starter gear properly? Bang on it with a hammer lol;) Not too hard.
If your car is bumper to bumper though still; don't bang on it. Tell them to come get it...