Originally Posted by Northwest86 (Post 2597173)

So your two Locknuts are loosening even when they are locked together. They shouldn't really move. If you are having troubles though wind the bottom one down, add a little loctite (one of the lower strength ones that don't need heat to break) and snug it up. That should do the trick. That'd be what I try first. Easy to do and easy to clean up if it doesn't work.

Originally Posted by mpross (Post 2597166)

I've got stock sways front and rear, stock end links in the rear, and the end links that came with the coilovers in the front.

I'm not too concerned with the rear at this point. They have started making a bit of noise, but it almost never makes noise while driving around. It's mostly when going up the curb to enter the driveway or going slowly in particularly bumpy parking lots. I'd rather they made no noise at all obviously, so I am going to go over everything in the rear again, but my main concern is definitely the front.

The front end links are something has puzzled me a bit though. I know that they have hit the control arm at least a couple times because there was a mark on the control arm from them. I've since shortened them a bit more to get a little more clearance . The thing that really doesn't make sense to me is this:

At stock height with stock end links, the swaybar is neatly nestled in between the control arm and the tie rod. Obviously nothing hits on anything because the car was designed to work that way.

When you lower the car, the strut/spring length gets shorter (raises up higher in relation to the swaybar mount). So if you also use a shorter end link (which the one that came with these coilovers is, even at its longest setting), it causes the swaybar to raise up and due to the shape of the bar and where it is mounted to the chassis, also move forward, closer to the control arm.

It stands to reason that to keep the swaybar in as close the stock orientation/angle/location between tie rod and control arm, you would need a LONGER end link since the upper mount raises higher and higher the more you shorten the coilover and lower the car. Obviously there's a point when you would have to worry about hitting the tie rod, but it seems like you'd have to drop the car quite a bit before that would be an issue.

Does that make sense? Clearly I'm wrong because everyone either uses the shorter end links provided or cuts and welds their stock ones. I just don't understand why.

Originally Posted by Alain (Post 2597699)

When you installed these coilovers. Did you adjust the endlink? I ask because the sway bar has to parallel to the ground when the car is back to the ground (not lifted in the air). If not, the sway bar will hit the lower control arm and also your car will handle slightly off. Make sure both are the same length.

Originally Posted by mpross (Post 2597781)

Yup, I had the car on drive up ramps when I adjusted them, so the full weight of the vehicle was on the wheels. I couldn't adjust the end links long enough to get the sway bar back to parallel. At its longest setting it's almost touching the control arm. The only way to go is shorter switch brings it further away from the control arm because it's raising it up, but it also brings the sway bar further away from parallel. That's why I'm thinking putting the stock ones back on might be good to try.

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Originally Posted by mpross (Post 2598430)

Went through everything this morning. Everything was torqued to spec and still tight from before. Added a little wd40 to the pillow ball because it seemed almost stuck. Took a little preload of of the fronts because they were just a little shorter than 150mm. And now there's no noise for the most part. That's happened before and then it comes back after a couple days, but fingers crossed!

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Originally Posted by Estey (Post 2608330)

Hows the clunking after a week?

Originally Posted by RBbugBITme (Post 2608350)

Usually really cheap spherical bearings can be swapped out with better quality ones. If you pull the mounts and know what to measure you can get NHBB bearings put in.

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Originally Posted by RBbugBITme (Post 2608367)

From the pics in this thread it looks like the rears have a spherical on the top but I'm not sure. I'm fairly certain BC uses very cheap bearings. Doesn't mean that's your clunking problem, just saw you felt the need to spray wd40.

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Originally Posted by mpross (Post 2608370)

They're buddyclubs that list for $1700, so I would think they at least use decent components?

Originally Posted by RBbugBITme (Post 2608373)

Don't think that.

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