Dynamat: If you DIY, it will only be a couple hundred. If it is installed, you are probably well over $500 for labor since it is a full interior breakdown.

Final Drive: $1500-1800 depending on what brand and who installs.

Decent Rims: $1000+ (plus TPMS)

Tires: $500-600

You can buy a second car for that easily.

Don't want a second car man... extra insurance, extra maintenance


Final drive 1.5k ? wtf I can buy a used pumpkin out of an IS and swap it in my garage for less than 500$


I think the rims I can keep using just change tires.


So I'm looking at the least 500$ in tires, 500$ Diff, sound deadening ~ 200$, Oil Cooler 350$


All for less than 2k and I can keep the car and maybe Boost it after my contract ends :D

Honestly run good oil and change it often you will have next to no wear metals. Here is a UOA from my car. You can see that I have next to no wear metals at each interval. I drive around 3k-4k rpms myself when I am commuting but I do also have an oil cooler. I do drive the piss out of my car though. I hit red line a few times a day.

Attachment 132865

My commute when I git the car was 55miles each way and is now 27 miles each way. I am prepping for STX but have toyed with just slapping on a SC and going for comfort. As it it is fine though (granted I have an AT so RPMs arent a problem to begin with)

Option #1: Buy a DD

Option #2: buy a DD

If you really dont want to realize you bought the wrong car and are willing to spend money instead of taking the hit trading in/selling

1. 17s will ride much better then 18s. Hell the stock rims are fine really even just slap a 225/45 on for a bit more sidewall even

2. ST coils or Bilstein shocks with RCE or Swift springs

3. sound deading will really quiet it down since the car basically has none. It will add weight but that doesnt sound like a concern.

Do those before swapping the final drive and really killing the car.

Oh I forgot to mention you need 225/45R/27 Invos as thats the smallest size they come in. They fit fine on stock rims.

@migueralliart

1. Delete the sound tube / growler tube pumping induction noise into the cabin. This is free to do, and removes a good 3-5 dB from the cabin.

2. Make sure your exhaust setup doesn't drone between 2700 - 4000 RPM. If it does, you may be in need of a resonator added or a just getting a quieter exhaust geared towards low noise.

3. Sound deaden the cabin (not the trunk). Most of the rest of the uncomfortable sound coming into the cabin comes through the floor, back seat, and rear deck lid (where the 3rd brake light is). Use a 3 material method (MLV+CLD+CCF). There are tons of threads on this, use the search tool.

4. If you want to upgrade coils for road comfort cheaply. Get ST Coilovers ($800). Decent quality, and softer springs make highway cruising nice. If you want to spend more for better damping and improved performance, I am partial to RS-R Sports-i ($1700). If you want to spend even more, Ohlins Road & Track @ $2700 are top notch for a daily driven car.

5. Upgrade your amplifier and speakers to go with your new head unit. The improved sound will go a long way to making the ride much more enjoyable and tolerable.

I wouldn't touch the final drive. You won't lower the RPMs in top gear enough to make a difference and 6th gear will be even less useful. Keep your 17s with 45 series tires in a lower performance category. Going to 18s will only make your sidewalls narrower as others noted. This hurts ride comfort.

You might consider under panels for the aero (better gas mileage) and reducing some of the reflected road noise, also in the DIY section there is a thread on a complete sound deading for a BRZ that should cover everything you need to know. It's what I followed to do mine.

If you don't have a sub, and have no plans to add one, do as @DAEMANO says and do the standard CLD/CCF/MLV treatment on the rear seat back / deck lid to block the trunk out.

I just recently completed a giant project to quiet my car down while also adding an OEM Audio+ Reference 450Q setup. I did things slightly differently due to the sub, but man - can't say enough about how much quieter it is in the car. My exhaust is nearly silent and sound from the back of the car is basically nill.

I bought a bunch of 3M Thinsulate TC3303 and lined the roof, stuffed it in the kick pillars and the frame rails, lined the inner door panels, the outer rear quarter voids and the trunk lid (covered by BRZ trunk lid trim) with it. CLD wherever there was resonance, but not excessively (used the equiv of 1.2 bulk packs of dynamat for the whole car). CCF and MLV on the inner door skins, the kick panel areas, floor, rear wheel arches, and a simple cut piece laid under the trunk mat. The back of my car is almost silent now, I can still hear some noise from the front wheel wells.

I have some hydrophobic melamine foam on the way to me from Don@SDS to try putting in the front fender cavities as an experiment to see if it'll reduce the front tire noise. We discussed it and he thinks it "might" work.

I didn't completely cover everything that I could have in MLV. I didn't have time to do under the back seat, but I'm not sure that I care. When I turn my head side to side, I can't really hear any noise coming from the back of the car.

I took a ton of pictures but haven't gotten them off my camera yet.

Meh
I drive 4 hours a day twice a week and 2 hours a day the rest. TRD exhaust and RSR Super Downs. You get used to it.
Now things seem wrong if I am driving a car that is quiet and smooth.

Aint that the truth. every time I drive another car I am like wow this is quite lol

I put Pandora on and turn the radio up. Seems pretty simple? Cruising at 80, I have never liked the RPM's since owning subarus, but they've all cruised in the 3K plus range.

Quite what? Quite quiet?

$200 will not get you any amount of sound deadening that is worth your time or effort. Plan on 500-600 at least. Just adding "dynamat" or CLD tiles in general is a complete waste of time. I've made that mistake a couple times in the last 18 years of modding cars. Don't do it. You need to go all out, or don't bother.

Beyond what others have said, I would pump the tires up to 40psi cold and get an alignment with road crown in mind. You might want front crash bolts for that. Don't ruin the car with a longer final drive or crap coilovers. I would also buy ventilated leather seats with cooling to cut the sweating.