Rear camber question!!
 

Is it possible to camber the rear with out buying a control arm or toe arm ?

There is no factory adjustment what so ever so I would be inclined to say no.

:slap::slap::slap::slap::slap::slap::slap:

Or you could post in the right section.

Or better yet, do some research, and you could easily find the answer you're looking for instead of using up valuable bandwidth

LOL was waiting for that :bellyroll:

im feeling nice.

Toe doesnt adjust camber, but camber effects toe. you dont need toe arms unless you run crazy camber

Camber will increase when you lower the car. It may be uneven side to side.

LCAs are the easiest option. Whiteline makes UCA bushings but they are a pita to installl and adjust plus have limited range. But the do stiffen up the rear greatly and do NOT effect toe when adjusting them.

tl;dr get LCAs

YIKES, tough crowd this morning ....... but, finch1750 was being nice ....... :D


humfrz

Hey I was nice too. I left the whole toe arm thing alone :lol:

There are four links that place the rear wheels: the upper control arm, lower control arm, toe link, and trailing link.

Edmunds suspension walkaround is fantastic in helping understand what's going on under the covers:
http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/t...alkaround.html

So here's your 4 links in the rear:
Green: Trailing arm and LCA
White: Toe Link
Yellow: Upper control arm (UCA from here on)
http://services.edmunds-media.com/im...a_bottom_a.jpg

So, in order to change the position of the wheel you must change one of the four links. The toe link is already adjustable, only reason to buy one is for bling, weight reduction, or switching out the rubber bushing for something harder. The trailing link locates the wheel forwards and backwards in the car, you don't want to move that without changing the entire rear subframe and even modifying the chassis to make the geometry work. That leaves upper and lower control arms.

Look at the LCA, basically a beam with four holes in it and a bushing at one end. This is relatively inexpensive to replicate and manufacture. The UCA is more complex in it's geometry and it contains 3 bushings. Yes, you could buy an adjustable upper control arm, however it will be somewhere around 1.5x-3x the price of a LCA. I googled and the first one to come up was Racer-X at >$700. That's more expensive than the most expensive LCA I've seen (~$600-$700)

http://racerxfabrication.com/frs-brz...r-control-arms

Here's Moorsports at nearly $1.5k
http://www.mooresport.com/indexe.php...ear-upper-arms

There is a budget solution available in putting the right sized camber bolt in the rear LCA where it mounts to the chassis, a few have done it but it's not common and not going to net you very much adjustment.

tl;dr Yes, but it's way more expensive than an LCA. Assess your needs; street, autox, track, and do some research and try speaking to your alignment shop for advice on what they can do for you. You don't need to buy a toe link.

WOW! That was GREAT ........ :thanks:



humfrz

PS - makes one wonder how we got along for years, with absolutely no adjustment for the rear suspension (except lowering it) ....... ;)

Did do research guys , just posted this up because a buddy of mine kept telling me he adjusted his rear without any aftermarket parts. Guess he trolled me !

It's crazy to see two questions about this sitting at the top of the section. Talk about RTFM. sigh.

I bought whiteline LCAs to adjust rear camber at a cost of $300. Then, in a flash of brilliance, I had my alignment checked before installing: -1.5 L, -1.2 R. Plus, I had more grip than I could use at the rear.

I put the new LCAs on, and had the car aligned to -1.5 L & R. So ... $300 for a -0.3 change on one side. I'm not sure I can even tell the difference, although I tell myself the car turns left better. Probably not the best $300 I've ever spent. (Please don't tell my wife!)

In contrast, I bought $65 whiteline camber bolts for the front and gained about -1.4 each side (final camber is -1.6, but I started at -0.2!). That's a bargain in comparison, and it made a HUGE difference in how my car reacts on the track.

Bamripzit - sorry for the hijack, I know this post doesn't apply to your question. BTW, I thought it was a good question, and if you hadn't asked I wouldn't have read the guitar man's (strat61caster's) excellent explanation!

some cars come from the factory not too bad but others might come with -0.5 and +0.75 (yes positive) camber and still be in spec (numbers are examples I forgot factory specs)