The disadvantage of the ESC is there is NO upgrades and NO headroom. Unlike a conventional supercharger where you can change pulleys. To me the ESC feels alot like my Wrx I use to have. It's quick but nothing mind blowing.

Good to know it can hold boost for that long.

Indeed, a good testing ground would be the Auto Club Speedway roval... a NA twin will stay flat out for ~30 sec in the banking, and there's several long 4th-5th gear straights in the infield. The benchmark for an NA twin is 2 minutes.. with about half that time WOT.

TBH at the track you'd want a traditional centrifugal supercharger for the top end power. But I can see how the ESC could be a blast in the canyons or hillclimbs.

The esc is great for autocross or short tight tracks.

My concern with esc is running out battery and how much time take to recharge. But i like the "hidden power" of it, makes the perfect sleeper

You have at least 1 minute straight of boost. Which is an insane amount of time for the street or anything short of a road course.

The most I ever boosted was probably 15-20 seconds which at that point your at 120+ mph at the top of 5th gear in a manual.

I can tell you the recharge rate is claimed to be 8:1. Meaning a 5 second burst would take 40 seconds to recharge to max voltage.

I can also say that during my quarter mile runs the system was fully charged by the time I got my timeslip.

You have a theoretical best setup for the ESC, header, FP, E85 custom tune etc. Do you have any dyno numbers with that setup? I would be interested to see

Well almost. A good EL header and flex fuel would be an improvement.

Like I said earlier if you look at HP calculators (which are mathematical) they range from 215-230whp if you input my 1/4 mile of 13.8 @ 101 weight of 2900lb. Tq would be around 200wtq. There much more area under the curve than peak numbers suggest.

No dyno just the above math.

I've seen those numbers with similar builds. I'm still on the fence whether or not I should replace the OEM OP, FP. I don't really want the extra noise since I already am running the header and I'm sure the gains are fairly minimal

I just have a catless header and catless front pipe. Those are the two with most gains because of the cats. The OP doesn't do much neither does a catback until your making big power.

I got rid of my catback and put the stocker back on because of the noise. Its fine now wish is louder sometimes. May put a "quiet" catback on soon.

Thanks all for the inputs. Decision seems clear now. For the time being I'm very satisfied with trd intake+OFT+OFH+trd exhaust
@DAEMANO when I got my FR-S 6 months ago I promised my wife a Gucci purse. Little did I realize how expensive they are :$
So yea, I'm hoping once that's out of the way maybe another ESC will come up

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

there's some pretty legit clones out there lol...

13.8........peeps, that’s really slow for the kit in my opinion. There are FBO NA twins running 13.8 or 14 flat, not a big difference. If the esc ran a 13.5 or shorter, boom, different story.

There is plenty you can do to upgrade an ESC.

1) Swap a stronger electric motor w/ longer peak performance duration
2) Get a 3rd battery/upgrade to a 36V system
3) Upgrade to a 24V or 36V LiFeMnCo4 (Lithium Ion battery pack)
3.1) Get a glycol cooled Lithium battery pack
4) Install a high output generator for faster recharging
5) Lighten the turbine wheel and shaft

If you want to get creative you can attach the electric motor to a gear that will increase the rpm of the turbo wheel shaft above the rpm range of the electric motor. Kind of the opposite of how tesla's car motors use a reducing gear to get their XX,000 rpm electric motors to spin the transmission/wheels at X,000 rpm. This would get an ESC motor that spins at XX,000 rpm to spin a turbo wheel up to XXX,000 rpm.

Yes but not at that trap speed. I was 97 NA on e85. Sure I can run drag radials and dump the clutch but I don't wanna lol.

The kit is more torque than anything top end is lackluster.