Nrg Srk-125H Aftermarket steering wheel hub traction/ABS light issue Please Help
 

Hey guys I'm kinda new here and was hoping I can get some help. So I installed a quick release setup to my frs. I used an Nrg srk-125H hub. This version seemed weird cause on my previously owned rsx I had an nrg hub and the wires for my airbag go through the hole on the hub on this hub I called nrg and they told me the wires sit behind the hub it has designed room where the wires fit underneath the hub. Now after doing the install I made sure to not mess with the clock spring. I made sure when I put the hub on the wheels were straight and the little orange piece on the clock spring was showing through the window. I wired up the horn and installed the two provided resistors that came with the hub by nrg into my airbag wires and taped them up so they don't fall out then installed my steering wheel, reattached my battery and turned my car on and bang my traction control light came on as well as my Abs light but my airbag light did not come on thanks to the resistors nrg provided me to install. My buttons under my shift knob for traction and vsc is also unresponsive. I wired up the horn correctly but not the cruise control cause there is no need for it I highly believe it's not the issue because I've seen many setups who forget about there cruise control for their quick release setup. I've done a full alignment and the light is still on and I also removed the terminals from my battery for ten minutes and I even took both positive and negative terminals and touched them together to hard reset my ecu and still my traction control light and Abs light is still on. Please if anyone can help me it would greatly be appreciated I have no idea what else to do thank you :)

Get the carista app ($20) and read the codes.

I've plugged two obd11 readers into it and both of them didn't even give me codes

Sounds like your steering angle sensor is shot, probably when the stock wheel was wiggled off it pulled the plastic clock spring piece forward causing the damage to the angle sensor. It's extremely fragile and if and when you get a new piece to install you will see what I mean. I had to replace a few of them due to people yanking the wheel off.

So do I have to get a new steering angle sensor or a whole new clock spring? What do you recommend I do should I take it to the dealer? Of course I would put the stock steering wheel back on tho first.

If it's throwing lights it's most likely the angle sensor behind the clock spring, unless both are damaged you should only need the sensor ring. It's easy to replace its just more expensive than most fixes. Each time I replaced one for people the cheapest price I heard of them paying was about $375.00 I see the piece retail for $400 usually.

Edit: they may be cheaper now might be able to find them for $200.

You need to either use the carista app or have toyota scan the car. Most OBD2 readers won't give you a true indication of whats going on or too broad.

I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that the SAS is damaged, it's not that fragile.

When you took the wheel off did you turn the clock spring at all? Did it seem like you were putting pressure on the clockspring assembly when you were putting the hub on?

I'd start by putting the stock wheel back on and see if that does it. Make sure the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is straight.

It's also possible you need to have the system calibrated. You can do this with the toyota techstream software. There are multiple threads about it if you search. Toyota may also do it for a fee or they may not since you have a aftermarket steering wheel.

It shouldn't have to be calibrated at all just changing the steering wheel, think about it's not positioning the clock spring or sensor any different, wheel slips off hub slips on it may move side to side while trying to get it on but unless you mis aligned the teeth or have a faulty hub it should be straight or the exact same way you had it when it was stock. If you needed an alignment after you put an aftermarket wheel on then something is off. (Unless you lowered it at the same time)

The SAS is a plastic ring with another plastic ring that rotates within it..I would say it qualifies as pretty fragile also it has grease around the inside you must apply to a new one so if hat was done incorrectly from the beginning (unlikely) than it would be a problem while removing the wheel or even steering in general. Just sayin not trying to argue, of course put the stock wheel on first.

The reason you didn't get any codes is because the errors the car has are chassis codes which won't show up on some/most non-professional readers.


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1820922

Read the above.

Get the car scanned before you start replacing anything.