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-   -   having trouble repining AUX harness (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101162)

lbroskee 02-07-2016 02:20 AM

having trouble repining AUX harness
 
can anybody tell me how to repin this harness? the holes are almost microscopic


http://www.crutchfield.com/S-hcP6BSu...l-Harness.html




http://images2.crutchfieldonline.com...0TOY28SC-F.jpg

Lorico 02-07-2016 07:21 AM

I wouldn't repin them since that's your biggest problem. You don't have the pins/crimp tool/ experience. Simplest way is to go against the crutchfield and just simply splice them. That's your simplest most effective solution.

If you ask. Ok. How do I splice. We'll need to go to a shop and let them do it.

lbroskee 02-07-2016 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lorico (Post 2538965)
I wouldn't repin them since that's your biggest problem. You don't have the pins/crimp tool/ experience. Simplest way is to go against the crutchfield and just simply splice them. That's your simplest most effective solution.

If you ask. Ok. How do I splice. We'll need to go to a shop and let them do it.

Ya the six ground is on the wrong pin and I wanted to keep the harness clean but my tool isn't small enough for this 28 pin connected so I'm prolly gonna have to splice :/

P3tras 02-07-2016 03:06 PM

Which connector you want to re-pin? That black one? There are small hooks on metal tabs that hold them inside plastic housing (2 hooks on sides of each pin). You can insert medium sized needle from front to sides of pin to bend hooks. Then you should be able to pull out wire together with metal pin. It can be re-inserted into different hole, just do not forget to bend hooks back before doing so.

lbroskee 02-07-2016 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P3tras (Post 2539124)
Which connector you want to re-pin? That black one? There are small hooks on metal tabs that hold them inside plastic housing (2 hooks on sides of each pin). You can insert medium sized needle from front to sides of pin to bend hooks. Then you should be able to pull out wire together with metal pin. It can be re-inserted into different hole, just do not forget to bend hooks back before doing so.

Forgot to specify, white 1

P3tras 02-08-2016 07:33 AM

Ouch, then I am not sure. But there should be some kind of hook holding pin inside plastic housing.

lbroskee 02-08-2016 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P3tras (Post 2539613)
Ouch, then I am not sure. But there should be some kind of hook holding pin inside plastic housing.

lol ya. i just said screw it and cut off all the extra wires and cut/spliced the AUX ground to the proper pin. i literally only needed this for the AUX and backup trigger anyway

SVXdc 02-27-2016 12:05 AM

3 Attachment(s)
For anyone else who needs to do this, here's the extraction procedure:

Quote:

In that style of connector, each of the metal terminals has a spring clip that locks it into the white plastic housing. You must push the spring flat so you can then pull the wire out the rear of the housing.

You need to fabricate an extraction tool (or find something that already is the correct size).

Here is a picture of a female terminal with a drawing showing how you'll need to orient the extraction tool:
Attachment 132128
Picture of the exact same male terminal that you'll find in the white plastic connector being discussed:
Attachment 132129
Picture looking at the front of the same type of 28-pin harness shell as on the Metra AX-TOY28SWC harness. The pin holes are the smaller squares, and the extraction hole is the wider rectangle above each pin's hole:
Attachment 132130
Note that the car's factory harness connectors have different styles of terminals, and require extra and/or different steps to extract (for example, on most factory harnesses, there is also a secondary plastic retention latch on the top or bottom that you must pop open). Harness connectors from other manufacturers may also have different terminals. There are many, many different types.

Fabricating an extraction tool:

For the type of shell pictured above, I fashioned an extraction tool by taking a straightened paper clip and then flattening the tip of one end with a smooth-faced hammer on an anvil. Many bench vices have a flat anvil area on the end opposite from the vice.

File the last 7mm of the tip so that it's no wider or taller than the extraction hole (the rectangular opening above a pin on the front -- pins side -- of the plastic housing). Also dull and de-burr the end. You don't want something so sharp that it pierces into the plastic housing itself.

Curl the back end of the paper clip, so you have a handle to push against without impaling your finger.

If you have an existing tool or piece of metal with a tip that's already the correct height, width, and length to fit about 7 mm deep into the rectangular extraction holes, you can use that. The cross-section needs to be just slightly smaller than the size of the extraction hole.

Extract a terminal and wire:

You'll use the tool to push down the metal spring clip.

First, push the wire into the rear of the housing (to release tension on the spring).

Then insert the extraction tool in the front about 6 to 7 mm deep into the extraction hole.

Once you've pushed down the spring flat enough with the tool, you'll be able to tug the wire out the rear of the housing fairly easily.

If the wire does not pull out easily, you haven't flattened the spring sufficiently. Pull out your extraction tool and try again.

Fix the spring clip:

If you plan to re-pin the wire into a different slot, use a tiny flat blade screwdriver to lift the spring back up (un-flatten it) like in my 2nd picture, above.

Insert the wire in the 28-pin shell:

The top of the 28-pin shell is the side that corresponds to the thumb latch on the car's plug (the lever that locks the two plastic connectors together). Hold the shell with the top row on top.

Orient the terminal that you're inserting with its spring clip on top (pointed up). As a check, you should see that the spring will slide in behind the extraction hole as the tip of the terminal goes towards the square pin hole.

Double-check that you have the correct slot (pin # position) before you insert the terminal! Although it's possible to extract a terminal, it's better to get it right the first time.

Begin pushing the terminal into the rear of the 28-pin shell.

Check the front of the shell to make sure the tip starts to emerge through the smaller square hole (it's easy to accidentally angle the terminal and have the tip emerge through the larger extraction hole).

You'll have to grasp the wire very close to the terminal, and push it in 1-2 mm at a time (if you try to grab the wire too far back, the wire will just fold over).

Push the wire in until the terminal snaps in (you will hear and feel a faint "click"). Approximately 5 mm of wire will follow the terminal into the hole before it ultimately clicks in.

Finally, tug on the wire to verify it's locked in.


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