Replacing stock speakers without juice
 

Hey guys, as we all know it seems like the stock speakers in the BRZ could be a bit better. I have been researching online a few speakers that I would like to use to replace the stock ones.

Can I improve the sound of the steroe by replacing the stock speakers with aftermarket speakers without using an amp? I am not sure what the rms wattage is per speaker in the stock system, so I am having a hard time choosing speakers based on their rms power.

What type of speakers would you guys recommend? I am trying NOT to break the bank either. I am not a hardcore audiophile, so I want to keep things nice and simple. I enjoy listening to hard rock, heavy metal, house, dubstep, and techno music, so I want something that will allow me to enjoy all of that.

I was thinking Kenwood Kfc-P709Ps or Polk Audio DB651 for doors.

Infinity Reference 4032cf 4-Inch or Alpine Type-s SPS-410 4 for the rear and the front.

Polk Audio DB1001 for the front tweeters

I am not sure if this will work, but what do you guys think?

I will take advise , recommendations, tips and tricks..

Thanks.

To be honest with you, anything that you replace your stock speakers with will sound better. Obviously, it's not going to be its max potential since you are not running it off an amp or replacing the headunit, but it will be an improvement.

If anything, my recommendation would be to replace the stock headunit and replace the fronts. The rear can stay stock.

For any sound system, keep this in mind. "The quality of the sound is only as good as the cheapest component of your sound system."

I like that quote. I will keep that in mind. Thanks.

They can handle the power fine but I'd probably look to replace the headunit first unless you have one of the higher end factory ones. Even with those I'm not sure if they can compete with a good aftermarket unit.

Speaker replacement is always the first place to improve sound. All HU's these days are similar sounding to the average Joe. Unless you need imaging controls or additional features, new speakers, and a line level converter for a sub (and amp of course) will get you 90% of what you would most likely want.

If that doesn't do it for ya, start considering yourself an amateur audiophile. ;)

Before I get slammed for this advice, don't be pushing low efficiency speakers off the stock HU or amp, obviously...

Edit: Or expect to crank the volume to insane bleeding ear levels...ok that is all.

What type of rms power for speakers should I consider? I have seen some that are around 45 watts rms and some that are 80 watts rms. I want to get some that will be able to be pushed by the stock HU. I don't need the extra power, all I want is something to be more clear and less distortion ..... or am I being dillusional?

I would first find out how many watts the stock headunit puts out...once you have that you can get a better idea of the speaker wattage.

There's a lot of it depends items at play here. First off, has anyone confirmed that the small box on the drivers side front of the trunk is an amp? If so, does it receive a full range signal? If not where are the crossovers? Are they active and in the HU? If you set the sub control in the HU to on, what does this do to the flatness of the output? (I'm guessing that it would cut below about 80Hz but leave the output more flat as the volume is turned up.) Next up, if that is an amp, can we use it with aftermarket equipment?

Next up you could porobably do a lot by sealing the doors so the speakers back wave is isolated from the front wave, turn the fade all the way forward so the free air mounted rear mids aren't messing things up, and finally get a set of smoother tweeters.

Sealing the doors will take some labour, but will benefit any speaker system you have in there if it isn't enough. Tweeters can be found online at places like sonicelectronix or parts-express. These would probably work well, they're a soft dome (my personal preferance, to me the stock setup is very bright),4 ohm and the frequency range should work well with the factory three way setup.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Audio-TW1.html

As for what wattage rating... This isn't nearly as cut and dry as you would think. Not even close in fact. Don't even look the the wattage rating. Theres almost no point.

The differences between the way different pieces are 'tested' is so broad it's not funny. Then when you consider the thermal properties and frequency responses of different pieces and setups, the wattage rating are next to useless. My JL slash 500 is rated at 500 watts, but most independent testes say over 600. I've used PA amps that wouldn't put out half their rated wattage and others that would do double all night long. I've run 3000 watts, tested not rated, through subs that were rated for 200. Seriously, unless you can find out how the testing was done, the wattage rating only means anything to the high school kids at future shop.

I went with 6.5" component speakers for the doors and put the tweeter in the dash spot. Although if you remove the tweeter the connector that goes to the dash 3.5s won't work. I'm just going to run new wires to the head unit for the front 3.5. Then going to run the 6.5" components off a 2channel amp.

what are you using for crossovers? The ones that came with the components or what eve the factory is using.

Did you ever replace the 3.5's and the tweeter in the dash?

I've been looking at the SPS-410 also and wanted to see if you had any luck installing the 4" along with the 1" tweeter.

What if you had money, but didn't know what to install? Can you guys help me out picking out a whole system for me?

If you want to do something to make it sounds tons better for a pretty good price I suggest the following

JBL MS8
MS-62C
GT-BASSPRO12

comes out to $1350 retail pricing. Would be a quick and easy setup that would result in a great outcome.