Check engine light just came on after 2k miles.
 

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-qDZxNLQo15M/T-...627_201928.png

(Day 1)Had just gotten off the freeway and pulled into my bank. Right as I pulled into the parking space, I noticed a slight dip in the RPMS that caused the car to shake violently for a few seconds which stopped. When I went I to pull the parking break I noticed the engine light and the Slip Light was on had turned on. Shut the car off and ran into the bank, started the car again. Lights were still on, but the car seem to run ok, but I'm taking it in first thing in the morning. Has anyone else had this issue?

Update 2:(Day 2) Just finished dropping the car if with the service department where I bought her. I guess since the car is so new they have to pull the codes and report it back to corporate. Then corporate will tell them what to do. I'm waiting to find what they say. I'm hoping it's something as simple as a sensor issue.

Update 3: (Day 2)The anticipation of finding out what was wrong with my car was killing me so I walked into the service bay to find out what was going on. Walked up on 5 tech's standing around my car, which in my experience isn't a good sign. In talking with the tech they said that the code they pulled off was related to a crank shaft position sensor error. They all seemed to agree that they didn't think that's what the issue is. Could be the sensor or an issue with the ECU. Leaving her here so they can continue troubleshooting the issue. they said the demo car they have ran into the same issue and another scion dealership in the area had a FRS which had the same issue as well which they are going to cross reference. I'll update this thread when I get more info

Update 4: (Day 2)So just got a call from my service rep. He said that they narrowed it down to a few parts, and ran down a list of parts that that could be causing the issue. Went on to say that they need to source parts for my car since they don't have any parts available yada yada tada... Basically giving me the run around any time i asked for specifics. Botton line is that they are going to need to keep my car for a MOTHER F!@#ing week while they continue working on it...

Update 5: (Day 3) Just got a call from my Service Rep. First off he said that he called their headquarters and got me approved to upgrade my loaner car sine the FR-S is so new. Stuck at work, so that'll have to wait till tomorrow. HE said they have a Toyota Rep on site that is overseeing the work as well, and the SR ensured that they we're doing everything they could to get my FR-S back to me. Went on to tell me that they won't be able to get parts till Mon at the earliest. I then asked if he could provide me with the codes they were pulling off my car. the SR said that there are some standard codes that comes up but the one that the Toyota Rep was interested in was the code that they kept pulling off, evening after clearing in out.
P0019


Update 6: (7-2-12) Service Rep just called me to give me an update. Reaffirmed that Toyota Rep is onsite overseeing everything. Good to know that corporate is so hands on with these early issues. They are basically replacing everything that relates to the error code. So that includes new cam gears, sensors, valves, solenoids, and new ECU. If everything goes as expected my car will be ready by tomorrow afternoon. Toyota is going to keep all the parts and inspect them all to see if they can determine the issue, which isn't so reaffirming.


Blog post regarding this whole ordeal.
http://downrightfrs.blogspot.com/201...ine-light.html

O_O
Scary .. I'll have to keep the miles low I guess .. so much for breaking it in quickly.

check fuses !

Try tightening your gas cap. :iono:

Well from seeing your avg mpg... Either you running the car hard and it's low or something is up with your fuel map... Could be a fried o2 sensor

He might only do city driving.

Dreading my 20+ miles drive home. Gas cap was screwed on tightly. But that wouldn't explain the ABS lights Fuse box smelt suspect, but with no access to tools it's hard to say.

Yep. LA traffic sucks.

I can't say I drive it light as possible but I do drive a lot of city unfortunately ...
I don't think that my driving should damage the engine EVER.
This engine is marked to hit +7k RPM meaning 4k should be cake walk!

i would take it in this wknd right away - maybe its something simple or loose... 2k almost cant beleive it..

Typically (not always) that a solid CEL is emissions related. For me it works like this: If it's not flashing, it's not critical. If it's flashing STOP!

But seriously, after only 2k miles? Please let us know what the OBD2 scanner says.

If it's not a simple fuse, your ABS module may be fried (defective). I've seen a few cars (typically Fords and Buicks) with the ABS light on and had to do with electronics.

You don't need tools to get into the fuse box.

I get the same mileage. I'm not driving hard, nor do i baby it either.