Introduction/HPDE Upgrade Thoughts
 

Hi All.

Just picked up a 2016 BRZ Limited/6MT. I am not quite sure yet what I want to do with the car. I tend to go through cars very quickly, unless I have a project and reason to keep one around.

I am instructor at our local raceway for various driving clubs, and currently have a separate dedicated track car. The BRZ is a surprisingly good and fun daily driver. I will definitely be doing some small audio upgrades, but I'm trying to decide how "all out" I want to go in terms of track prep. I could see this car replacing my current track car eventually, but the problem with a track car is they typically don't also make a good daily driver.

Here is what I tentatively have planned, and any input, suggestions, or internet bashing is fully welcome. Car currently has 22 miles on it (bought it with 9)

Definite Upgrades
-Track pads/frozen rotors/RBF600 fluid.
-Stainless front brake lines
-Camber bolts
-Cat-back exhaust (want something to increase sound a bit, but that isn't obnoxious or droning. And no "burnt tips". Thinking Corsa?)
-Oil cooler
-Conservative, safe custom tune to get into a safer AFR and try to reduce some of the flat spot around 4K rpm

Possible upgrades, If More Serious Track Use
-3/4"-1" drop on lowering springs (how does the stock suspension like just the addition of shorter, progressive springs? I don't want bouncy, and it isn't just for looks. I want a little less roll and a little more response)
OR
-Full coilover suspension with camber plates
-17x8" wheel to fit some better/wider rubber (any compelling reason to go with 18" wheel?)
-Different final drive gearing to quicken things out
-Forced induction: turbo vs SC?

Anything else I'm missing? I'm sure there are dozens of threads with similar information, but I am also treating this as a bit of an introduction thread. I've raced motorcycles for 8 years and been driving on the track for three now (it is quite easy to be fast in a car after being fast on a bike).

Thanks in advance!

Since you are instructing I'm assuming you will be pretty fast out of the box with your BRZ so you will likely exceed the temperature on the RBF600 depending on your style and the track. Other than that your "Definite" list looks good.

The first area that you will probably want to address after that is camber. The stock suspension will only go so far with camber bolts and you'll probably want more camber given your experience level.

After that it's the rabbit hole of upgrades. Too many ways to go depending on your goals. I'd suggest doing the "definite list" and maybe camber plates/rear LCAs for a while and then figuring out where to go from there.

Welcome! Pads/lines/fluid are a must if you plan on regularly tracking the car. Camber bolts are good (I have Whiteline on mine) and if you want to adjust the camber at the rear, you'll need some LCAs for that end of the car (I have SPC). Others may disagree with me, but I don't think an oil cooler is necessary unless you have FI. Nice for peace of mind, though.

I have a Perrin 3" resonated catback and without anything else it sounded great. Nice bass line and very little drone. You can check out YouTube for sound clips of the various options, or join up with a local group to hear them firsthand.

The stock tune is very safe for AFR, and a custom tune won't help much with the "flat spot" aka torque dip. The only way to actually fix that is an unequal length header plus tune. I have the Openflash UEL header and Openflash tablet for tuning and it has erased the torque dip, so now the car builds power nice and evenly up to about 7000rpm.

I have the TRD lowering springs, and these were OEM on some of the special Scion FRS models (like the RS 1.0, I think). They still ride very nicely, not too choppy, and are noticeably stiffer versus stock. They also won't trash your OEM struts.

The only reason to go with an 18" wheel is looks. 17x9" wheels would be about perfect for track use, just get something light and strong (RPF1 is always a good option). I have 18" staggered on mine, but I bought with the desire to be both a street/track car.

Good luck! Oh, and the search function in the forum generally stinks. Best way to search is just to go to Google and type "FT86club.com "search" where "search" is whatever you're looking for.

:cheers:

imo brake lines and rotors are a waste of money (unless worn), there's no reason to chuck the OE stuff. Other than that seems like you know what you want, have fun.

Here's where you want to be:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=39
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25485
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38926

Thanks for the feedback. Set things in motion already:

Set of Kosei 17x8 wheels mounted with 215/45 winter tires that I will use until spring, then swap on 235/40 R comps and next winter put the winter tires on the OEM wheels.

Looking at the TRD lowering springs, they are linear in the front and progressive in the rear. I've never seen that, and it seems like it would upset the chassis. Does anyone have any first hand experience with them?

As for the UEL, how hard is the install process? I'm fairly capable and have good jack stands and a heated garage with air tools. Any down side to going UEL? I am guessing a slight drop in mpg, and of course risking powertrain warranty work denial.

Installation isn't that bad.

Getting the stock header off requires a bit of encouragement if you don't loosen the over pipe but it can be done.

Depending on the header you choose, you might need to use a swivel to tighten one of the bolts to the engine but other than that it's pretty straight forward.

like @jvincent said, install isn't bad if you've done stuff like this before. the only issue is the middle bolt between header and head on the driver's side. I had to use: 1/2" impact > 9" extension > u-joint > 6" extension > socket. Granted, I only had deep sockets, so it might have been harder for me. But yeah, that one is a pain.

I've torn apart plenty of race bikes, so I'm comfortable with a wrench.

How long would you estimate it taking? Two hours? I'm assuming it is a direct bolt on to the remaining mid pipe?

I'd budget 3 hours.

Also, don't forget you'll need new gaskets.

Good thread! I'm in the exact same boat; just purchased a 2016 BRZ for a fun DD but also have a dedicated track car. Naturally, I still want to get the BRZ on track too :D

Quick question...

Do the front brakes/rotors have ventilation/cooling?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=39

The HPDE has great details. Your plan out looks great though.

I'd also like to note, on the topic of UEL, it will either take zero or half the fucking can of PB Blaster to remove the overpipe nuts. Save yourself the trouble and spray it early if it even hints at giving you trouble.

As for exhaust, I went through a pretty broad spectrum of cat-backs when I had my STi, so I kind of went into this knowing what a boxer sounds like with different exhaust setups. I absolutely hate drone and rasp, and I'm pretty picky about my exhaust selections these days, between not wanting to annoy myself, and my neighbors. I have the Perrin 2.5" Resonated and don't have any issues with drone, even with full catless and UELs.

Corsa I have not heard in person, but I do have experience with their exhaust systems on other cars. I would imagine it to sound in line with Perrin, likely with a bit less cabin noise and possibly a bit more of an "airy" sound as a by-product of Corsa's Reflective Sound Cancellation tech.

There aren't many other options I'd consider. There's the Invidia Q300 that I would check out in addition, but I have no experience with it so I won't comment.