if you double the output of your engine, its a time bomb, might do 200k, might do 20k...make sure you've got enough$ to replace the shortblock at minimum on standby.
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Wait a sec here. No track but occasional racing? What kind of racing?
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You bought a car designed around a 200hp NA 4 cylinder motor. With cost cutting measures. It's a good motor, but not overbuilt like a Supra 3.0L turbo motor. Don't expect it to ever be fast and reliable unless you're willing to spend, just doesn't make sense. Enjoy the car as it is, it's a hoot on back roads.
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Here's my observation:
You want 350 hp at the crank, or around 300 wheel horsepower. Is it reliable? Maybe. Many get to around 250-270whp and are great for years. Then you have your bros saying they push 400-500 just fine. That's like going to the gym as a scrony kid aspiring to lift 225 on your first deadlift when you can barely move 135. Can it be done? Maybe, but you'll regret it sooner if not later. Is this platform worth modifying and changing? In my opinion, hell yes (but there are plenty of naysayers). What I'm getting at is you need to understand the consequences of pushing an engine outside it's normal output by 150 hp. Then again, you're also comparing it to two totally different cars. The Z and the Mustang are V6/ V8 cars vs a boxer 4. |
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2013s were more commonly known for engine failures.
1) SC or turbo your choice. Turbo typically has more headroom for more power. 2) Considering your budget... the Ptuning kit is out of the question - though it is a very solid kit. You can also consider some cheaper kits such as JDL and SBD. 3) No. If I remember correctly, VA has 93 octane as premium fuel. You should be able to hit 350 crank easy. But why are you so adamant on trying to hit a certain power number? There's more to it than just a peak power number. Should also consider the area under the curve. 4) Most likely will have to go catless. 5) It's a guessing game. There is never a set time in which an engine will blow. Example: I had a k20 in an RSX blow at 90k with excellent maintenance all its life. While I see other K20s go for over 150k. |
Slow down. Don't name a hp number, this isn't a heavy ass vehicle.
Take it 1 step at a time. If you don't want to throw $10k+ at the car right now, then you don't want to go forced induction, as that is what anything will cost at minimum. First thing to do is talk to Ptuning realistically. They are good people, they've been tuning all sorts of cars forever. The second thing is you need to realize you need to drive the 86 like you hate it. Rev the ever living crap out of it, as that is where all the power is. I'd then take baby steps. e85, header, and tune are the first steps. Then drive it like that for a while. Oh and issues. The engine can last to 250 but by 300 they are almost always timebombs. The transmission always chokes around 290 or sometimes a little more. There is a reason the people who crave big power almost always swap engines. |
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You're saying you don't like turbo lag, but if you had done any research with a quick search in the forced induction section, you would know that the majority of turbo kits out there with the power output you're looking for have pretty linear power distribution albeit not as linear as superchargers. Plus for spirited driving, you should be in the upper rpm range and therefore be in boost anyways. Good luck with your motor, but it'll go at some point sooner or later. Even those with built motors have experienced failures. |
Wow, just read the wife comment. Punk. Love the internet - I imagine in real life, perhaps at a bar, he'd have his tail between his legs, nursing a busted nose after that comment.
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