Sunny's 3SGE BEAMS FRS. Full Engine Rebuild.
 

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Engine/Drivetrain:

-G3 3SGE BEAMS Blacktop

-Custom Engine and Transmission mounts

-Drive shaft shop 3" steel driveshaft

-Modified OEM 3SGE headers

-Modified Intake Manifold by Dustin at Purist Mod

-FA20 Throttle body

-Injector Dynamic 1000cc injectors

-Fuel Lab FPR

-Radium Engineering Fuel pressure gauge

-Radium Engineering Oil Catch Can

-Deatschwerks DW65 fuel Pump

-Jegs Oval track fuel cell

-Modified Buddyclub catback


Suspension:

-PBM Pro Coils

-PBM LCAs

-PBM solid subframe bushings

-PBM solid diff mounts and risers

-SPC front camber bolts


Electronics:

-Haltech Elite 2500

-Custom wiring harness by Dustin from Purist Mod

-VDO Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature gauges

-OFT Tablet Stage 1 Tune (sold)


Wheels:

-Avid 1 AV-20 Wheels

-ARP extended wheel studs

-20mm 5x100 Spacers


Interior:

-Takata 2.5" harness

-Short throw shifter

-Flossy 500G shift knob


Quick background information:
This is the first car that I've began modifying and taking to drift events. I use this car as a daily driver and I'm currently located in Orlando, FL and attending college.
I got this car because it was pretty much the best option since I was looking for a new car that was not too expensive that was also rear wheel drive and lightweight with low maintenance.
I thought that the FRS would be a car that could be driven daily and also occasionally driven to the track and back home without needing a seperate vehicle. I think these are some of the things that make the FRS and BRZ very appealing cars.
I had this car for about two years and when I moved to Orlando I began taking it to the local track Orlando Speed World to attend drift events.

Before the FA20 blew I took this car to one event after I had bought an OFT tablet and installed the stage one tune.
The only engine mods I had on at this time was an HKS filter for the oem intake, a buddy club catback, and the OFT tune.
The car drove really good and I learned a lot since it was my first event with the car.

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We've been waiting on a 3GSE build, finally

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(actually guess its not the first build.. but still excited for you)

This is the engine the car should've been built with.

And how much cost for the swap only (engine, trans, drivetrain? Ecu, engine mounts etc)

Videos or it didn't happen

Hi from Tampa, nice build.

Finally making a dedicated build thread ;)

Here we have a video made by my friend Alan who also happens to drift his FRS a lot and is really good at it too. He makes super good quality videos and are all super interesting. I'm sure some of you guys already know who he is!

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DupEdhpc5yw"]BEAMS Swapped FRS | Fixing my Cracked Bumper - YouTube[/ame]


Then here is a video of when the engine was first running really badly off of the stock BEAMS ecu, modified oem engine harness, and original cable throttle body.


[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiW53bod_NY"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiW53bod_NY[/ame]

3SGE engine and trans sets cost about 1000-1500. ECU is Haltech elite 2500 which is 1500 new, driveshaft was 450.

Custom engine mounts I made myself out of cardboard then brought it to a welder and worked with him to make them.

Custom modified headers by Kings Performance.

What doesn't work after the swap? Do you have power steering or A/C? It's really cool that you're taking this on by yourself.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Most of the things still work, I don't have ac since the engine sits so far back in the engine bay and since its an inline 4 it kinda blocks where the ac lines would normally go through the firewall. Fans still work to blow air but not ac.

Dustin gave me some info on how to get the stock tach to work and also the coolant gauge but I haven't gotten to it yet. I have some wires from the chassis that go to the haltech to power things like the fans but when I connected it to the stock ecu things got a bit funny so I decided to get aftermarket tach anyways because racecar.

Fuel gauge doesn't work because I got a fuel cell and haven't installed a fuel level sender in the cell. Once a sender is installed it would be easy to get the oem fuel gauge to work.

Just some photos of my car a while back when it still had the boxer and I was living in South Florida.

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This is one of my favorite photos of my car still to this day.
When things were simpler lol.:thumbup:

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About a month later I went to my second event at Orlando Speed World, Frankenslide.

I had taken it on about two or three runs and the car was feeling really good.

Then my buddy Alan decided we should strap a Go Pro onto the car which then led to this:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQpFy4kn5co"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQpFy4kn5co[/ame]

I thought it was one of the catch can hoses that pop off but it turns out this happens:

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Alan happened to have his FJ Cruiser with him and was able to help me tow the FRS back to my place. My other friend Greg wearing the black shirt in the photo which I met from a mutual friend one time while I was on a paintball team a while back, had towed his car to the event and let me borrow his friends trailer for a little bit.
I can't thank them enough for volunteering to help me out and let me borrow their equipment!

This makes me feel sad for the fa20 :-(