Solution for easy changes to rear camber and toe (street and track use)
 

I'm planning to change camber/toe couple of times per year between track season and winter (North East) for my daily FR-S. Ohlins R&T (comes with front camber plates), lowered 10mm from stock, may go to 20mm max. Want to be able to get 1.0 - 3.0 rear camber with zero toe.

Currently have SPC rear control arms and toe kit, looking to replace with something solid like SPL titanium LCA and whiteline rear adjustable toe arms. Must be easy for alignment shop to adjust.

Is this the right approach? @CSG Mike, @Racecomp Engineering, others, please advise, thank you

SPL is the right way to go, but I have a question for you. How much street driving do you do, and what alignment did you have in mind for the track and winter?

IMO, you shouldn't be running any toe in the rear, and if you aren't doing a TON (20k+) of street driving, you can leave the car alone in the track alignment.

I daily drive my car with -3.5 camber front/rear (S2000), and it hasn't seen much track time at all; I do about 40k miles/year.

Thank you @CSG Mike

I do mostly street driving in NY with about 8 or so track days per year. I don't mind going through my summer street tires a little quicker because of camber, since I have three sets of rims and I can run cheaper summer street rubber...but camber I put on in spring must work well on track.

Since Toyo recommends -3 or more negative camber for RA1, I think that I want to go with about -3.5F/-3.0R as a starting point, so need to validate that these numbers make sense. Ohlins will be at about -4 to -5 from full stiff.

Planning to change to -1.5F/-1.0R camber for dedicated winter rubber.

I think that'd be a bit too much.

Try -3.4 front -2.7 rear as a starting point, and adjust based on pyrometer readings. This is my educated guess based on your suspension settings and tire grip level.

Update: Just drove at Watkins Glen with Ohlins at their recommended height, -7 clicks front and -8 clicks rear, -3.0f/-2.5r camber with 1/16 rear toe in. Very good set up for me but didn't stay near the limit much due to the rain and to carefully monitor everything on a new car/setup. Michelin PSS worked great in the rain and Toyo Proxes RA1 were awesome in the two dry sessions.

Did you take any tire temperatures during either of the dry sessions?

Yes, started with 31-32 psi cold pressures and ended up with around 35-36 psi hot. Tire temps after a run were pretty consistent in high 110s low 120s across the tire width but little higher on the inside since I didn't push hard (slow trains, taking it easy with new car to feel things out, couple of issues with RBF600 brake fluid) and camber probably made insides stay a little warmer on the cool down lap. I wasn't going above 1G lateral much at all and my setup should be capable of about 1.2G sustained on these tires from a similar setup on my previous frs. Will look at all this much more closely during upcoming track days now that I know the car/setup is sound and I can push harder.

I was thinking more of tire temps that you (or more likely, someone else) would have taken with a probe pyrometer in the hot pits during a fast lap. From what you've described, however, this wasn't a time for taking tire temps anyway. Who will you be going back with, and do you know which run group they'll assign you?

Tire temps don't go down that quickly after a lap and I only did a cursory check with IR pyrometer after a dry lap to see if anything was off. I go with NASA and SCDA in intermediate group and will probably go to Thompson and NJMP next.