Do I Have A Built FA20?
I'm looking for tips/info on how I might be able to check if my 2015 Limited BRZ, FA20 was built with forged internal's. I'm looking to go turbo soon and I have some suspicions my FA20 might have been built by previous owner, or it's just a really good engine/internals.
|
Well, is if it runs it's probably been built by someone. I don't think engines work pre-assembly. :thumbsup:
Why do you think your engine was modified by a previous owner? |
Quote:
OR, just boost the shit out of it and see it it flies apart - :D humfrz |
Haha. That's true. My first thought is because I wasn't paying attention to current RPM and downshifted from 3-2 and it overevved to +/- 8500RPM and took it like a boss. No weird noises, no knock, misfire etc and several weeks later of daily redline abuse still no issues. RPM Limiter in tune is set to 7600 btw. I've been under the car a lot and it came with a nice passenger side oil cover plate and all sealant looked fairly new/fresh when I got it. Considering the tuned daily redline abuse its had for the past 2 years 30k miles, I'm surprised my oil Analysis doesn't show more wear and that I haven't broken anything other then throw out bearing.
|
Yes you do. I can feel it.
|
You mention prior red line abuse that is your guess. And your experience which is nothing. You are a stupid dumb shit. Please go away
|
Quote:
:iono: humfrz |
Quote:
Everyone at minimum redlines multiple times a day, its what the car was built for. Most manual drivers will downshift into high RPM by accident several times in an engines life with no real issues for 100k+ miles. Especially if you downshift to high rpm off throttle. Chances are an overrev will either cause a failure or not. Meaning it isn’t breaking something 10% and then after 10times its 100% failure. It is either not really doing anything or causing a complete failure so “handling it like a boss” just means nothing happened this time. Now a money shift WOT shift at redline in 3rd to 2nd instead of 4th and rev on throttle at 9500rpm+ is a different story. Also most built engines have more “issues” then none built oem stock engines, the fact you haven’t had any issues is an indicator it is NOT built. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Hmmm.. not sure. Try moneyshifting it again. If you only did it once last time, do it twice the next. The next time, do it three times. If you reach 100 moneyshifts without any failures, then, and only then do you have a truly BUILT engine.
|
Buy an endoscope on have a look.
Or, yes, from my seatbin the interwebs here in AU I can tell your engine is built and can handle 500 crank hp. Add more boost now. |
Your best shop is finding old registration records and contacting the previous owner. It costs so much to rebuild an engine with stronger internals that it's not likely someone would just absent mindedly forget to include in any sales pitch.
How often do you see Craigslist adds for a WRX that has a boost controller advertised as "BUILT 400WHP RACE TUNE WRX NEW CLUTCH $3,800OBO" For a rotting pile of untuned garbage? Your car is and will have a stock engine for a long time to come, and that's a very good thing. |
Quote:
How would you ever get -8500rpm? Negative revs are not a thing. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:02 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by
Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) -
vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.