Asymmetric front camber, '23 w/coilovers
 

Just had coilovers installed on the new '23, yay! Except...

They could only get -2.1 degrees camber at the front left. They set the front right to the same camber, and on that side the adjuster is actually on the positive-camber side of the range! If I set both fronts to max negative camber, I'd have -2.1 LF and probably -4.5 to -5 RF.

Shop that installed work almost entirely on track cars, know their stuff. I would suspect their alignment machine but when I picked up the car they were just confirming with a camber gauge off the machine, in fact I heard it confirmed before they even knew I was right there.

It seems to me that the front subframe must be offset to the right a LOT relative to the unibody. What do y'all think?

Situation is kind of intolerable as I compete in time trials and tenths *matter*! For this weekend at Palmer CCW I'll crank in some front right camber but ultimately I'll need *at least* -3 front camber, -2.1 is not going to cut it.

Also if anyone could tell me why my pics are coming in sideways and how to fix that, lemme know!

The lower mount is slotted for camber adjustment...I'm guessing that the front lower mount on the left side is not maxed out, or is even maxed out in the wrong direction.

It should be pretty clear visually...compare the lower mount on one side to the other. PM me more pics if you like.

- Andrew

This was my first suspicion, but I raised the front and confirmed that it we are indeed maxed out at the lower mount...

Ordered SPC bolts, see what that gets me I guess. Dammitall...

Car is at Patriot Subaru for oil pan/pickup tube RTV inspection, asked them to have a look and see if they can get me some desperately needed front left cambers...

I ended up ordering SPC bolts as well when placing my coilover order with Shaftworks. Jon was telling me it's not uncommon for there to be an offset left to right in the camber plates. This is due to the subframe as you pointed out

May as well get ahold of the smaller 12mm bolts for the top, as well.
PNs for nut and bolt, need 2x of each
90105 - 14147
90080 - 17208

You can probably also just swap the camber plate hats side to side for more caster since you'll likely hit your camber target with the camber plate nearly at its 0 position unless you're going for like -5.5. You can just unbolt the 4 pinch bolts from each camber plate to swap them.

(what i've said here is specific to the shaftworks stuff, not related to the top post)

I've never ever seen a difference left to right that much from the factory BUT I do get phone calls not infrequently from people and shops that forget to push the hubs in when tightening the 2 bolts for the lower mount to get as much camber as possible down there. Just sayin! We're adding a lot more detail in the instructions and making a video of this soon (Monday).

EDIT: not saying it's impossible that there's something up with the front subframe or some sort of other issue...but that would be a big deal. Did it look off before?

EDIT2: also remember the bolt on the right side goes in the opposite direction as it does on the left.

- Andrew

Yup, I'm *sure* that most shops will miss this, but not Wile Motorsports. Proprietor was into motorsports before he started the biz, and they pretty much only work on race cars. *Still* I lifted the front of the car when I got it home and loosened the bolts to double-check for myself, and indeed they had them tightened at max negative camber adjustability with the slots/holes.

When I went to pick up the car I observed proprietor manually double-checking the alignment measurements from the machine, same camber numbers within a tenth or two.

Still I will have Patriot Subaru look at camber again to triple-check and also to see if they have any ideers. Might ask if they can shift the front subframe to the left. And maybe the rear subframe to the right!

If i can't get to *at least* -3 at the front left, will resort to SPC camber bolts and maybe source a couple of grade 12.9 M12 bolts/nuts for the uppers, torqued to 110 lb-ft.

By my calcs, and assuming the measurements in post #1 are correct, then if the front right is adjusted to max negative camber up top, it'd be at around -2.1FL/-4.4FR. That's a built-in difference of 2.3 degrees. Not sure what the factory spec is but it might be impossible to get both fronts into spec camber range with the stock suspension. LAME!

All that said, there *does* seem to be inherently limited camber adjustment with the RCE SS-2 upper mount arrangement. If I was able to shift the subframe, it looks like the most front camber I could get at both sides would be (-2.1 - 4.4)/2 = -3.25 with subframe perfectly centered relative to strut mounts.

Didn't really scrutinize front camber symmetry with the stock suspension. Basically both sides looked like zero camber plus/minus...

I'm gonna need clarification on this, don't see what possible difference that could make! FWIW both left and right have the nuts at the front of the strut. I think...

Eagle eye Larry in the office has looked at the pics and has confirmed the strut bolt is installed incorrectly on that side, which is why the hub can't push in as far.

The nuts should on the right side of the car should be towards the back of the car. That's the problem.

The instructions say they bolts can only go in one way...but...apparently it's possible to get them in the other way. We are adding more detail.

- Amdrew

The right side is *no problem*!
It's the left side that's limited to -2.1 degrees. See pics of left-side strut bolts/nuts and left- and right-side camber plate positions. Left is maxed out, but only -2.1 degrees :cry:

Is it just me or does the hub looks to be cambered out? The two red lines are supposed to the converge to the top and they look like they converge to the bottom. I would expect the hub to be more inline with the blue line.
Maybe it's just the aluminum hub having an angled machined area though...