Self-applied Ceramic treatment on new BRZ?
 

A Search resulted in few -- and old -- topics here on the "ceramic" coatings. Staring at a car with effectively zero miles, this looks like an opportunity to try it, not that I mind waxing (well, I should do it more often...;) )

No way was I paying +/- $1000 for the dealer to apply it. Anyway, who, if anyone has experience and if so, what type and are there BRZ-specific cautions?

Otherwise, it's back to Meguiar's Gold Class or whatever the call it these days.

I used the Adam's kit on my car a few years ago. My car needed a lot of prep being a 13'. I think if I were to do it again on a vehicle I would pay to have it done. Even using the boost spray in the kit it didn't seem to last long compared to a professional job, and my car has spent about half that time parked inside. It was also a PITA to get tape and numbers to stick to my car afterwards too lol.

Do you normally detail your other vehicles?
Really, it's close to the same process as any other detail job.

Clean/prep
Correct
Then lay down ceramic coat

Agree. Most of the quality high-solids coatings are just as easy to apply as any sealant or wax.

I've been self-applying high-solids coatings (the ones in the little glass bottles) to all of our family vehicles for at least 10 years now. It saves a ton of money and it's really pretty easy. The newer coatings are even easier to apply.

I've been a long time user of CarPro's CQuartz UK. Its on several of our family vehicles and it's a good coating. Easy to apply and I get at least three years of good protection from them. It might last longer, but at the two or three year point I'll polish it off and re-coat the vehicle.

Recently I've given the new Gyeon coatings a try. My BRZ is wearing Gyeon Pure EVO and my wife's MDX is wearing Gyeon Mohs EVO. Both of those are are easy to apply, but Mohs EVO is by far the easist to apply coating I've ever used. Performance-wise, I've had Pure EVO on my BRZ for a year now and it's still going strong. The Mohs EVO has only been on the MDX for about three months, but I've got no complaints so far.

Most of the $$ you pay is prep/labor. Paint should be polished to properly clean surface to accept coating. If you don't have gear you'll probably be into it at least $300-400 for material cost.
You will want decent microfiber towels for leveling the coating. Pearl weave work nicely for that, then follow up with a high GSM for final buffing.

Clean
Chemical and physical decontamination
Polish
IPA wipe
Coat

As far as brands Cquartz UK is probably easiest for a first timer.

My car has Cquartz UK and a layer of Cquartz SIC on-top. I'll never install just UK ever again after using those together.

Recently did this red GR with the same combo
https://i.imgur.com/BhHJXdB.jpg

Thanks and I am not afraid of the labor involved. OK, I might need translations on "GSM" and "IPA wipe" at the least as I do not recognize the acronyms, and what polish did you use.

Anyway, my wife always helps on Car Detailing Days and as it's her car, she'll be enthusiastic...

I thought the same thing until I applied Mohs EVO a couple months ago. Crazy easy to apply.

You don't really have to wait for it to flash. Just apply it to an area about 2' x 2' and it will flash by the time you put down the applicator and pick up the buffing towel. Buffing is almost effortlsess and I only needed a single, low nap, MF towel. I didn't have to use two different types like you describe in the removal of CQ UK. It took me almost half the time I spent applying CQ UK to a similar sized vehicle.

The icing on the cake is, I think it actually looks better too.

OP: Either way you go, a DIY job is not hard. You'll save a lot of money and get to spend some quality time with your car.

A brand new car still requires a paint correction. Some more substantially than others. I'd never pay the dealer 1000 bucks to do, but I would pay a reputable dealer a lot more than that.
I did Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra from day one.
Xpel PPF on the front end and mirrors with Gtechniq Halo on top.
Maintained with Gtechniq Liquid Crystal C2V3, and Gtechniq Easy Coat.
The Gtechniq Ceramic G-Wash is worth the sticker price too.

GSM = grams per square meter. Higher the GSM count makes the towels softer/fluffier.
IPA = Isopropyl Alcohol or a paint prep.

On the GR86 I used optimum hyper-polish and orange OPT waffle pad. Similarly you can use DIY gold standard polish and gold waffle pad which work near identically. Gold standard has a little longer working time.

You probably are applying the right amount of product then!
I've let my business partner apply the coating and tends to get a little heavy handed putting UK on the applicator. :D

I've looked at Gyeon coatings as something to possibly introduce as package offerings, heard good things.
Might be something to experiment with on my wife's car since I need to clean hers up.

I really like Hyperpolish on cars with soft paint like Subaru's and Toyota's. I actually used Griots BOSS Perfecting Cream with Rupes yellows on my BRZ and it turned out perfect. I think any medium pad with a quality polish should turn out well as long as you don't go too agressive.

I used CanCoat a few years ago and that started my interest in their products. CanCoat performed great, looked amazing, and lasted twice as long as advertised, but I honestly hated the application method.

Fast forward a few years and with the release of the EVO updates to make the application process better in their main-line coatings I decided to give them a try. Visually and water behavior, I give them the edge over CQUK. Durability is unknown at this point, but my hunch is CQUK lasts longer than Pure EVO, but will likely be a tie with Mohs EVO.

The Gyeon coatings do go on a little thicker, so you use more per vehicle. I used about 20ml of Pure EVO on my BRZ and and about 35-ish on our MDZ. With CQUK I'd use about 15 and 25 respectively. Something to keep in mind from a business perspective that I don't worry about as a hobbyist.

Thanks for that. OK, I am getting closer.

Reading various posts, I presume I use an electric buffer? I have one of Griot's.

Gyeon Pure is very user friendly.

I would suggest that for sure to save your arms :D