Polyurethane bushing swap?
 

So I’ve been wondering if it’s worth swapping all the stock bushings with polyurethane? And has anyone used energy suspensions complete bushing kit?

Subbed

I have a mix of Energy and Whiteline. I personally find the whiteline parts nicer and better made. Though I have seen some people have the opposite opinion. I had the large front lower control arm bushing from Energy fail in less then a year. It is also not captive so it was a pain to install. I think the only Energy bushings in my car are rear upper control arm, and rear trailing arm. Everything else on my car is whiteline now.

Is it worth it? Depends on your wants/needs/usage, but I'ma say probably not...

I compete in time trials but my BRZ is also my daily-driver. I am about to install Whiteline rear subframe bushings after feeling lateral rear squishiness at the track, but that's all I have planned for aftermarket polyurethane. I think this should let the rear suspension move properly without as much lateral monkey-motion. I'm not too worried about replacing the suspension bushings with poly for a few reasons, mainly because I'm lazy but also I don't think my street/track setup is stiff enough to benefit greatly vs. a dedicated track build.

Here's a good thread on the subject: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106000

One rule of thumb is that if the bushing moves through more than 1 axis, poly isn't the best choice because it just isn't meant to flex like that. The big front control arm bushing is one of those spots.

That said, some poly bushings take this into account and work fine there and definitely give you a performance benefit (Whiteline ALK for example). Another option would be STI Group N rubber, or just replacing old OEM with new OEM. And of course spherical bearings but that's not for everyone.

Poly works great for inserts like the diff and subframe bushings and for simple bushings like the swaybar. It works fine for bushings that rotate on 1 axis (rear upper control arm).

I did a broad write up on bushings on our tech instagram page here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CBQUCS9n..._web_copy_link

So with that said, I would probably piece together my own kit rather than a complete poly replacement kit. Old worn bushings suck and since it's usually a gradual decay, you might not realize how janky yours have become over time.

- Andrew

This ^^^^!

Another reason I'm starting and possibly finishing with the subframe mounts. You could totally lock those down and not interfere with necessary relative motions or bind anything up. Also, it makes sense to stabilize the thing that the rear suspension bolts up to before going to poly suspension bushings or spherical bearings. Mine is a daily, so if this doesn't do anything to "fix" my perceived rear-end wiggliness on transitions I'll probably just live with it rather than go "full poly".

I have no personal experience, but I have always heard that poly bushings need to be greased frequently or they start squeaking pretty loudly. For that reason alone I would probably avoid them on a street car.

In our application, I don't believe this is really an issue since there is such little suspension movement. I notice no squeaking in any or my components.

Now my Toyota, with 34 inches of flex, is a whole other story.

I"m in the process.. one by one. I've done the rear subframe inserts, diff, and the rack-and-pinion bushings. About to throw on the front lower contal arms with urathan bushings installed.

So far so good. Also, the large forward bushing on the LCA is noticably cracked and disintegrating. Tho my car is also a first year model with a 02/2013 build date.

Why OP? if because racecar might as well go straight to delrin and sphericals, if because 'sportscar on street go brrr' then buy the off the shelf inserts and swap the coilovers for something stiffer and have fun.

pics please, my car is at 93k 12/12 build and I have no indication that any of the bushings are going south on me.

I'm at 89K around there. 02/13 You are in the bay area. Average ambient temps are at least a good 10 degrees cooler than in LA. That might have something to say as well. I'm sure I've smoked more ignition coils than you have as well. 4 of them..

Driver side:
https://scontent-lax3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...2f&oe=5F7860C7


https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...62&oe=5F763D06

I'm also one of the first guys to report TOB failure at around 27K miles. Dead battery as well. All temp related I'd imagine.

Also: Raybestos runs cooler than Centric! LMAO Jk

Those look fine to me? Your ball joints should go out way before those bushings.

The cracks are still good? Either way, I was going to replace to tighten things up anyhow. I wanted to firm up the front end a bit to see if it will be less “washy” at corner entries. Also tire preservation. I’m getting excessive inner tire wear even at just -2° Camber. Gotta do it

Oh wait now that I look at it on my computer I can see the fatigue on the bushing. I don't think its in danger of failing or anything but for piece of mind I would swap it as well.