Looking for Community Input on Blown FA20: To replace or not to replace
 

I haven't seen many posts along these lines so I started my own.

I've had a blown FA20 (threw a con rod) sitting in my garage for about the last 16 months now and, having gotten past the emotional turmoil and heartbreak of having taken my chances with a flex fueled C30 supercharged setup and lost, I'm trying to decide whether it's worth just sourcing a used engine and keeping it N/A with a few remaining upgrades. The idea would be to keep it as a third vehicle. It's a 2014 WRB Premium BRZ and I still have a number of aftermarket upgrades on the car that I haven't really been interesting in taking the time to return to stock and it seems remarkably wasteful to sell it for dirt to a wrecking or auction company. The remaining upgrades include:

- PTuning flex fuel kit,
- DW300c fuel pump
- ID1050X injectors
- Southbend stage II clutch
- MTEC shifter springs
- Whiteline trans bushing
- Verus forged clutch fork
- relatively new Bilstein B6 shocks

I'm particularly conflicted because, as I understand it, if I can source a decent 2014+ longblock, the swapout should be plug-and-play in theory. Of course, searching for a "decent" long block in that year range is proving difficult. I'm mostly relying on www.car-part.com and checking ebay every now and then for reptuable sellers, but not having much success. Beyond that, whatever engine I would be able to source, I know I would be on the clock to get it started in case I needed to make a warranty claim for a dud engine, but that's more on me to plan properly.

I've pretty much ruled out swapping out the shortblock as that is just beyond my technical capability such that I don't want to risk spending all that effort and still have some non-trivial issue that will require even more money and time to solve. In particular, not having any idea whether metal debris circulated through the oil after the con rod punched through the engine case, I have no idea what state the heads are in.

Also, I don't have the time, patience, or $$ to do a swap like for a K24 or some other involved project, so it's either return to stock, perhaps with flex fuel tune at a minimum, or just sell the whole thing for whatever I can get.

What would you do?

What about replacing the whole long block with an engine from the junkyard ? Plenty of wrecked fa20s out there.

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That's currently my go-to solution via www.car-part.com. Accessories are all fine so I really just need the long block.

Yeah that would give you more options I feel

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Something else I would note is that, if I don't spend the money reviving my BRZ, I would likely spend it on a used car that would be a backup car. So the conundrum is whether I would spend that cash and personal effort to regain what would otherwise still be a very nice car in terms of comfort (not so much practicality as a two-door sport coupe), or purchase a much higher mileage car for the same cost that wouldn't be nearly as nice and would probably start to fall apart sooner.

I should add that I previously did all the work on my BRZ to install the JRSC kit and other add-ons so I don't see replacing the engine as a technical challenge, per se, if it truly is plug-and-play. However, if I run into problems upon startup, I'll very quickly need to either my e-tuner and/or this community for help given how complex problems can sometimes be with this platform.

@vfrqqq As long as you get an engine from a zenki (2013-2016), you'll have no problems.

I had to replace my engine this spring. I opted to buy a whole donor car from auction (through a CoPart Broker) with relatively low mileage, which cost about $8000 (~$4500+fees+taxes+delivery) dropped off at my door.

After gutting the donor car and selling parts off, the net cost of the engine came to about $3500 (which is cheaper than market for a decent FA20 right now). Obviously the total value you can derive from parting out a car depends on its condition.

• I could have parted it out even more, but I was comfortable with the value I got out of it. I opted not to chop up the electrical harnesses and left enough for it to actually be rolled-away without a forklift.
• I still have to break into my old engine block to see if it can be saved, but I expect to earn about $500-$1000 back on that too if it's suitable for a rebuild and I end up letting it go.

I preferred this method over a junkyard or eBay engine. You get to know exact mileage, # of previous owners, and as-is condition of the car post accident. This subsequently gives you a better idea of the health of the engine and any potential risks. You don't also have to worry about how somebody else removes, handles, and ships the engine block.


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Some factors to consider:

• The space and time to deal with storing and parting-out a whole other car. And the tools if you don't have them handy or anyone to borrow from (engine hoist, engine stand, etc.).
• The time that you want/have to spend at your computer during the live auction to bid and ensure you get the car you are interested in.
• Overall demand for parts (local vs national) and selling costs for things you intend to ship (eBay fees + shipping can eat up to 25% of sale price, less if sold via PayPal G&S) factor into how much/how fast you recover your costs

@EndlessAzure, I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your thoughtful feedback on this. I definitely have the tools and I believe I should be able to source both an engine lift and stand. I can probably muster the patience to part out a car and recoup some of the cost to make it worth it, but adequate space is probably going to be my limiting factor. My spouse has been waiting very patiently this whole time to put our second car in the garage so I’m not sure where I’d keep a donor car if a friend or family member isn’t willing to lend me their space.

I did something similar to get my FRS. Before car prices went crazy, I made friends with the manager of a small car lot near my house. I would stop in weekly and we would look at various auction cars. My car was in Tx. We got it for $6k, $300 auction fee, $500 shipping, and $500 to the dealer.

I looked into getting a "totaled" car but in Va you needed to be a broker to bid on Copart.

I built mine and upped the boost. Smiles per gallon went through the roof

Just got back from Boise yesterday where my '13 ticked over 100k miles.
8 hours from 80 to 60 both ways. Still ticking over reliably and no blinking lights or trash in the oil.
The twins in stock configuration has been a completely reliable performer for what I do with it.

Sure you *can* boost and modify the hell out of them but it's not required.
52 south of Lowman over the pass was enchanting and superbly enjoyable even though I only got to 45 at most.
The route is really that contorted.

Also, I assume JDM engine is not going to be plug-and-play, correct? I thought there were differences with the AVCS and sensors that monitor that.

I have no idea with regard to region.


I just know there are cam sensor differences between zenki (-2016) and kouki (2017+)

Help me out here. I guessing Zenki and Kouki refer to pre-facelift and post-facelift models.

Keep in mind that 2015-2016 also had updated coil packs with different plugs.

Yes, I have provided the year ranges for reference on zenki and kouki

Upgraded coil packs on zenki don't matter if you source an engine that still has its harness attached. It's the same main connector between engine and body