Air Conditioner Stopped Working
 

My air conditioner stopped working recently on my traffic commute home. I was switching between AC on and off every 5 minutes or so (AC on for 5 min, off for 5) and suddenly it just stopped 30 or so minutes into my commute. The cabin fans blow but the radiator fans do not come on, no cold air.

I checked my radiator fans and unplugged the water temp sensor, they kicked on immediately so I know it's not the fans. I went through the service manual and checked all of the engine fuses - all of them looked good and tested good with multimeter. I have two BRZ's and I decided to swap the fuses with my other car, that did not correct the problem.

I started running through the air conditioner diagnosis steps in the repair manual (see attached photo) but I'm getting lost in figuring this thing out lol. I tried the steps but it doesn't appear to fix anything. There is no blinking indicator light which would show a problem. I'm also not seeing any of the codes in the "Actuator Check Table".

2015 BRZ Limited MT 11,000 miles.

Any suggestions what I can check or how to reset the system from the cabin?

Temps look good? Can you hear the AC compressor working? You can visually see the clutch engage.

I do not hear the AC compressing working. Engine oil and water temps normal if that is what you are referring to. As for seeing the clutch engage, do you mean on the AC compressor? I don't have any experience with air conditioning.

turn your AC on, and pop the hood. You'll see the pulley on the compressor (driver side, top), engage and disengage. If it's still working, then check the system for a leak. You have a FMIC in the way so a punctured condenser is pretty unlikely...

Okay I'll do that shortly. But it stopped working very suddenly. If it was a leak, wouldn't it take a moment to stop working sufficiently, like it would cool less and less over time? I don't hear that "click" engage in the interior when I turn on the AC so I suspected it was something with the system on the inside.

Sounds to me like your car is telling you to do an a/c delete... Listen to your car and she will listen to you..... It's all about becoming one with the machine

To go along with what @CSG Mike has suggested, I would suggest you re .... re-check the 50 A fuse (position #5 - top right) in the fuse box under the hood.

Also, did you check the #8 & #9 position fuses in the fuse block under the dash .. ??

As suggested, have someone cycle the A/C control, while you are looking at the clutch on the A/C compressor's pulley, to see if it is "clicking" and engaging.

I hope you get er fixed soon.


humfrz

Alright @CSG Mike @humfrz I popped the hood and had someone turn on and off the AC; I don't hear or see the AC compressor doing anything.

I am sure I checked all fuses and relays, including that 50 amp red one. I also rechecked it again now. Lastly I unplugged all of the ones under the dash and visually inspected each one, all good.

What now? :cry:

hmmmm.........if the compressor's clutch won't engage and the fuses and relays are all working, maybe the "gas" level is so low that it won't be allowed to activate or the switch isn't telling it to go ON.

Anyway, I'm afraid it's time for your car to return to the dealer or a auto shop for a diagnosis and repair.

Yep, life is too short to go without A/C in a car.

Y ...... I remember, back in the day ........... shut up humfrz .....:slap:

Not a reasonable option, they will pop the hood and see turbo. RIP warranty.

Edit: I'm determined to figure this out without bringing my car to a shop.

A TURBO ....... NOW, you tell us ........ :sigh:

(jest ah messen wich ya - that shouldn't have anything to do with it)

Well, I understand about you not wanting to take it back to the dealer, however, an automotive repair shop doesn't give a rip about your car's warranty.

OK, so, no shops .......you want to do it the old fashioned way ... ??

First, I would run a hot lead to the compressor clutch and see if you can get it to engage. Yes, make sure that connector on top of the compressor hasn't become unplugged.

If the clutch will activate when it is "hot wired" there is a good chance the problem is electrical, upstream somewhere......

OR, it is low or out of "gas" (whatever they are using these days).

So, to check that, I'd suggest you run down to the store and buy a recharge kit.

If after re-charged, the clutch engages, that means that the electrical is good.

Now, does the car cool down .... ??

If it does but then fails to cool after running a spell ....... you most likely have a leak in the system.

Now, your car is in the auto shop ........ unless you wish to chase the leak yourself.

OR ....... roll the windows down and let that turbo rip ........ :burnrubber:


humfrz

But, @humfrz, what if it's not a leak? The AC suddenly died in Mrs. Ultra's Camry. It ended up just being a clutch relay.

Especially since this system doesn't come with a sight gauge, I advise against adding anything unless:

1. Coolant loss is certain
2. The leak has been repaired.

Also, I've read warnings about incompatible formulations of lubricants and additives. Make sure you're using the right stuff.

Not an expert but my $0.02 nonetheless.

Simple way to check. Get multi meter. Turn to ohms/resistance. Unplug compressor clutch plug. Measure resistance across 2 terminals on the compressor. No resistance=bad compressor clutch. If you have resistance then take your multi meter and check for engage voltage on the plug that you undid. Set to voltage. You should see 12 volts when compressor cycling switch or module engages the relay. You don't have voltage. Check wiring diagrams and check the fuses. Fuse good. Check relay by swapping to known good one. Relay good. Check a/c pressure. A/c pressure low side compressor off above 40? Suspect cycling switch/pressure switch for module. Freon low. Refill with dye and check for leaks with a kit.




[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zb7WHaL_dz8"]How To Use A Multimeter - YouTube[/ame]

Well, now, let me guess ...... mrs ultra's Camry A/C died on the hottest day of the year and she was .......steaming!!!!!!!

The OP has checked the fuses and relays and reports all are good.

Good point on the NOT mixing refrigerants. I would guess that R134a would be an acceptable refrigerant to use …… although a couple of models of Subaru have switched to R1234yf. This should be checked, since I understand the two don’t get along well.

I'd still take it in to a auto shop ........ but, that's just me ...... lazy .....:sigh:


humfrz