Squeaking noise from clutch pedal. TOB has already been replaced under warranty.
 

https://youtu.be/GNrGaIsZWkI

So I've been having this issue for months. I've tried different things to get rid of it but nothing has worked effectively so far... my clutch pedal makes this scrathing/squaking noise when depressed, every single time. This happens with the engine on or off. It happens with the engine cold or warm (although the more you drive, the less you feel it but it's definitely still there). The car has 46500 miles, and it's a 2017 model.

Before you say it's a bad factory throwout bearing, the factory TOB was replaced under warranty by a Toyota Dealership. Twice. The first time was because it was a bad factory part, and the second time it was because the noise came back after a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, the car is now out of warranty and I can't bring it to the same dealership again to make the same fix for the third time, especially knowing that the noise will most likely come back. I've tried lubricating the fork and slave cylinder with white lithium grease but only works a little bit, doesn't get rid of the scratching completely and wears out after a few days.

I don't know what else to do besides just doing a whole clutch, TOB, pressure plate and flywheel replacement, but even then I fear that won't make the noise go away. Any advice?

It's not the top, it's the main pivot inside. It's a shitty design with that flat spot on the face of the ball. You can get at it with a finger if you remove the dust cap.

Can I really get through by removing the rubber piece? It feels like the pivot it's way far down. I ask because I've tried to get through it with a can of white lithium grease with a nozzle but it feels it like it never reaches the correct spot.

I had the squeak. Took it in, fought the dealership because they didn't want to drop the transmission. They finally did and replaced the TOB. Issue happened again 1-2 weeks later.



Recently changed my clutch, flywheel, tob, fork and pivot. A lot of dirt and grime on the old stuff. Drove on the new stuff for 2k miles now and no squeaks.

Nope. It's right there. The spray grease is too thin to do much for any length of time but it will help. Are you putting the tube down the front or the back? The pivot is at the back.

Exactly, dealership replaced TOB twice and the noise keeps coming back. I feel better knowing that when I eventually replace the clutch, I can make the noise go away by re-lubricating everything inside. I just keep putting it off because I'm trying to extend the life of this clutch as much as possible lol thanks!


Tried this and it looks like the noise is gone for now, but probably temporarily, as you said. I think I'm gonna have to put some thicker heavy duty grease whenever I drop the trans to replace the clutch right? Thanks for your help.

Coming out of the little rubber boot in the video is a little metal "finger" pushing back and forth on that black lever. The "finger" fits into a little cup area on the lever. Clean that contact point and put a nice dab of automotive grease (not white lithium - that's way too thin) in between the finger and the cup. I've had good luck with Phil Wood waterproof grease for bicycles.

Try to understand the dealerships mentality: they get paid for doing work for Toyota when the car is under warranty. Replacing the TOB if there is a squeak doesn't mean the problem could have been the TOB. I have seen guys get their whole tranny replaced under warranty because the dealership can bill Toyota for the work. This is big business for them. The car service and repair business is full of scams and scrupulous characters.

There are several contact points that could cause this noise :

1. The TOB against the snorkel/snout
2. The TOB against the fork
3. The fork against the pivot
4. The fork against the clutch slave cylinder piston

Look at the bottom of page 4 of my build for images, but any one of these contact points could have been poorly greased. This seems unlikely to me, but it is worth considering because only the correct type of high temp grease should be used. If it wasn't used then the grease would melt under hot conditions, essentially leaving the surfaces bare. I would consider taking the car to a dealer or mechanic that will allow you to watch them as they separate the tranny from the engine, so you can see for yourself the condition of the system. If it was poorly or incorrectly lubricated then you have a claim for reimbursement, regardless of whether you are outside of warranty.

Also, I don't know if they used the new TOB (one with a white dot on it), but even if they didn't, I doubt you would be burning through TOBs so fast, so I don't think that is the issue.

Another possibility is that the snorkel/snout was damaged like mine was, but they didn't replace that, so the problem keeps coming back.

Lastly, and less likely, the fork could be bent or the pivot could be cracked. It has happened with OEM clutches, but it is far more likely to happen on aftermarket clutches, and as you can see from the pictures in the link below, the fork often cracks/fractures instead of getting bent, so this is a low possibility.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2874573

The manual says to use NICHIMOLY N-130 for everything inside the clutch area, and to use SILICONE GREASE G-40M for the clutch cylinder piston/push rod. I used the Lucas Red "N" Tacky grease because it was available at the local store on all points without any issues. This shows the lubrication points.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Zy4latxiIw[/ame]

Unfortunately the problem is in the design of the joint itself. Everything's great when the mating parts are fresh but once the flat spot on the face of the ball starts wearing a flat spot in the socket, ... creak creak :(

Have any of you had issues with a warranty repair on the clutch because of engine mods?