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-   -   Sealant Recommendations for Black Paint (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147594)

Sam86 11-15-2021 09:21 PM

Sealant Recommendations for Black Paint
 
Hi everyone,

I need recommendations for over the counter products that actually work well.

I don’t live in America so most of the local products available are Meguairs and Turtle Wax, very recently Chemical guys but I haven’t tried it.

I’ve used Meguairs Quix Wax, Turtle Wax Ceramic Spray wax (the one specific for black paints), Turtle Wax spray sealant and your standard Carnauba wax.
Turtle Wax Spay sealant has been the only product that seems to somewhat repel water


No matter what I use, the beading sticks to my car like glue, does not sheet off even when hosed down with water, just sticks to the paint and holds in all the dirt it accumulates requiring a full wash to remedy. If they were just subtle water/ dirt marks it would be fine, but it genuinely looks like my car has a leopard print with how visible the dirt is after a half a day of rain.

Eg.
https://i.ibb.co/7SNz38Q/0-DBABD07-0...894-D60-C1.png

That sideskirt is freshly painted, was washed yesterday with wax applied and this is the result from a single morning of rain. If I spray that with water it will not remove any dirt unless I hand scrub.
I’m not expecting 100% of the water to sheet off like a real ceramic coat, but currently I don’t see why i’ve been bothering to apply wax when the beading does nothing in terms of making the car easier to clean, and doesn’t seem to offer much protection as bird poo has still burned through into the clear multiple occasions despite being washed off within a few hours of it occurring

I know black cars show defects more, but unless every other car at my work place has ceramic coating, nobody else’s black car looks as dirty- and I doubt most of them even wash their own cars let alone use products outside of drive through washes

sygfrid 11-16-2021 06:58 AM

Sealants/waxes work best if you prepped your paint properly (iron decon, clay, compound, polish, then seal/wax). But that's just part of the equation as mineral contents in the water can affect the way it clings onto the surface as well.

Keep your Carnauba Wax till the summer if you want a warmer gloss. Natural waxes like Carnauba don't last long & they're not as slick as synthetic sealants like Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions.

If available, get a TURTLE WAX HS GRAPHENE FLEX WAX!

I found that multi-layering of Turtle Wax HS Ceramic Spray Wax (2 coats) + Turtle Wax Graphene Flex Wax (2 coats) create a very slick surface that takes longer for dirt to cling on & layer up thanks to the very tight graphene molecules. Bird poop & even tree sap are very easy to remove with the combo.

I've tried Xtreme Solutions Topper which is another very slick SiO2 product & highly recommended by popular detailers like Pan the Organizer. But I noticed that the TW Graphene Flex Wax performs better in keeping the paint cleaner in between washes especially during the rainy season.

If you live in an area with hard water and/or have rains w/ high mineral contents, you may want to hose off & dry the water as soon as possible before it dries up or you can neutralize the minerals with a quick detailer until you're ready to give it a proper wash.


From my other post:
Quote:

Originally Posted by sygfrid (Post 3438716)
I've been using Meguiar's products over the years. However, there's recently been a huge step up from other brands especially from Turtle Wax's Hybrid Solutions line which are very easy to use.

Here's what I've done on mine & what they do:
Step 1. Adam's Strip Wash -for removing old waxes, sealants
Step 2. Fireball Ultimate Iron Burn - for removing iron deposits on paint
Step 3. Wash & clay to remove embedded surface contaminants
Step 4. Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction Compound - for removing swirls & scratches
Step 5. Meguiar's Ultimate Polish - for removing marring from the compound, reconditioning the finish, & removing finer scratches
Step 6. IPA wipe down to remove polishing oils so that wax/sealants can stick better
Step 3. Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating (2 coats)- gives that candy wrapper-like gloss & creates a slick surface that repels water fast
Step 4. Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Graphene Flex Wax (2 coats) - deeper gloss, creates a very slick surface that repels water easily. It takes so much longer time for dirt to build up because of the slickness (vs using Meguiars Ultimate Wax)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6S...-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JZ...-no?authuser=0


spcmafia 11-16-2021 11:38 AM

I would agree with sygfrid's opinion. Is all about prepping the surface and letting the sealant cure for a proper amount of time. You can take it from the bottom and start with something that will strip all previous layers of wax, do a polish, then sealant. I recommend Meguiars 210 Ultra Pro Polishing Compound. Follow for Meguiars Synthetic 2.0 Sealant 21. Let it sit for a proper amount of time and then cover or garage the car for the day. Then apply Turtle Wax Graphene wax, or spray, I prefer the wax. You should be covered for a good amount of time. I have made previous threads regarding all the products that I use should be pretty easy to find as this topic thread doesn't get bombarded with other topics.

radroach 11-16-2021 04:50 PM

While I like their products, the waxes from Meguiar's and Chemical Guys do not last past a couple washes, probably due to them being California based companies and adhering to strict VOC laws, or has been my guess.

Following up with what's been said, Turtle Wax has been getting great reviews in the last couple years.

RToyo86 11-16-2021 06:00 PM

That looks like road film to me. No amount of protection will stop that from sticking to the paint. Not even a ceramic coating.
Some products might do a bit better at resisting contamination from sticking to it but that's about it.

Light rainfall is usually worse for road film which doesn't help.

Sam86 11-17-2021 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RToyo86 (Post 3482057)
That looks like road film to me. No amount of protection will stop that from sticking to the paint. Not even a ceramic coating.
Some products might do a bit better at resisting contamination from sticking to it but that's about it.

Light rainfall is usually worse for road film which doesn't help.

I’m not really familiar with that term, is it something that can occur rapidly or does it happen over time?

The side skirts in the photo had been painted 2 days prior to that photo, and that photo was after the first drive with them on the car which was a 15 minute commute in light rain and little traffic.
I’ve since washed the car thoroughly and I still have faint markings I just assumed to be hard water spots.

Prior to putting on my sideskirts I had made the same commute daily, in varying conditions for several months and never had the same hard waterspots on the area below my door that my sideskirts now cover.
I don’t recall driving in any puddles or past anything that could have flung whatever road film this could potentially be (and I was consciously avoiding them because I didn’t want the side skirts getting too dirty on my first drive)

Sam86 11-17-2021 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sygfrid (Post 3481786)
Sealants/waxes work best if you prepped your paint properly (iron decon, clay, compound, polish, then seal/wax). But that's just part of the equation as mineral contents in the water can affect the way it clings onto the surface as well.

Keep your Carnauba Wax till the summer if you want a warmer gloss. Natural waxes like Carnauba don't last long & they're not as slick as synthetic sealants like Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions.

If available, get a TURTLE WAX HS GRAPHENE FLEX WAX!

I found that multi-layering of Turtle Wax HS Ceramic Spray Wax (2 coats) + Turtle Wax Graphene Flex Wax (2 coats) create a very slick surface that takes longer for dirt to cling on & layer up thanks to the very tight graphene molecules. Bird poop & even tree sap are very easy to remove with the combo.

I've tried Xtreme Solutions Topper which is another very slick SiO2 product & highly recommended by popular detailers like Pan the Organizer. But I noticed that the TW Graphene Flex Wax performs better in keeping the paint cleaner in between washes especially during the rainy season.

If you live in an area with hard water and/or have rains w/ high mineral contents, you may want to hose off & dry the water as soon as possible before it dries up or you can neutralize the minerals with a quick detailer until you're ready to give it a proper wash.


From my other post:

Thanks I will try that exact combo next time. It’s been a bit over a year since I last clay barred (hesitant to do it again as it caused marring and scratches last time as I wasn’t aware you had to follow it with a polish).
That would explain the rough surface sticking the water to the rest of my car, but not the sideskirts which had been painted 2 days before being placed on the car and theoretically should be as slick as possible as it hadn’t been exposed to any water or elements yet.

After taking that photo I thoroughly washed the car and removed all water spots and dirt from every part but the sideskirts which still have faint water spots I couldn’t remove- I tried detail spray, APC, being heavy handed with a micro fibre and none made any difference.
Never had this much trouble removing water spots so I don’t know what they are. Side skirts were flawless before that 15 minute drive to work in light rain, then sitting in the parking lot.

sygfrid 12-02-2021 03:52 AM

It sounds like the water spots have etched on the clear coat or your could've drove onto some chemicals that have stained it. Distilled water-vinegar solution usually takes care of hard water spots. But if they've already etched into the clear, you'll have to do compounding & polishing.

I highly suggest that you checkout the master detailers Pan the Organizer, Apex Detailing, & AMMO NYC on YouTube for pro solutions to that persistent problem.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam86 (Post 3482420)
Thanks I will try that exact combo next time. It’s been a bit over a year since I last clay barred (hesitant to do it again as it caused marring and scratches last time as I wasn’t aware you had to follow it with a polish).
That would explain the rough surface sticking the water to the rest of my car, but not the sideskirts which had been painted 2 days before being placed on the car and theoretically should be as slick as possible as it hadn’t been exposed to any water or elements yet.

After taking that photo I thoroughly washed the car and removed all water spots and dirt from every part but the sideskirts which still have faint water spots I couldn’t remove- I tried detail spray, APC, being heavy handed with a micro fibre and none made any difference.
Never had this much trouble removing water spots so I don’t know what they are. Side skirts were flawless before that 15 minute drive to work in light rain, then sitting in the parking lot.


Decep 12-05-2021 01:29 AM

A lot of these hyper hydrophobic products will cause this, if you get a very light rain and your car was just dirty and dusty. not much you can do about it but park inside.

Sam86 12-05-2021 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sygfrid (Post 3485964)
It sounds like the water spots have etched on the clear coat or your could've drove onto some chemicals that have stained it. Distilled water-vinegar solution usually takes care of hard water spots. But if they've already etched into the clear, you'll have to do compounding & polishing.

I highly suggest that you checkout the master detailers Pan the Organizer, Apex Detailing, & AMMO NYC on YouTube for pro solutions to that persistent problem.

From the looks of things that’s the case, I just don’t understand how it happened from a single morning as the paint that now has these etchings was freshly painted and clear coated the day prior.

I’ll try the vinegar/ polishing method eventually, at the moment I’m just going to leave it as it’s not super noticeable unless I look at if from certain angles in direct sunlight

Sam86 12-06-2021 12:01 AM

I bought the graphene ceramic coating and applied that and it seems to have helped. I had 1 coat of Turtle Wax Spray sealant, 1 coat of the Turtle Wax ceramic spray with black pigments with Turtle Wax graphene over the top. Seemed to do a fairly good job of letting 80% the water run off the paint.

Only seems to last about a week and a half though

spcmafia 12-06-2021 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam86 (Post 3486887)
I bought the graphene ceramic coating and applied that and it seems to have helped. I had 1 coat of Turtle Wax Spray sealant, 1 coat of the Turtle Wax ceramic spray with black pigments with Turtle Wax graphene over the top. Seemed to do a fairly good job of letting 80% the water run off the paint.

Only seems to last about a week and a half though


The spray is good, but the best result you'll get is from the wax. How long did you let the sealant "cure"?

Sam86 12-06-2021 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spcmafia (Post 3486914)
The spray is good, but the best result you'll get is from the wax. How long did you let the sealant "cure"?

I believe I applied the sealant on a seperate day to the wax and graphene- aside from being out of the house for 2 hours it sat in the garage for a little under a day.

I don’t think I’ll use the sealant spray again though as it was so difficult to buff out that I think I created some minor scratches

Ernest72 12-08-2021 03:40 PM

Black cars are a second job. I have the same thing on my silver car but you don’t see it as much. Not much you can do except for cleaning it all the time. I have had 2 black cars, never again. They look the best clean, but rarely are clean.


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