Jackson Racing SC High-boost Q&A
 

Original JRSC owner's thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60172

JRSC High boost release: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93847

Can I run the CARB tune with the high boost pulley?

ABSOLUTELY NOT. A custom tune is mandatory.

What if I only add the high boost pulley and do nothing else. Then can I run the CARB tube?

No. You can *only* run the CARB tune with the CARB kit. A custom tune is mandatory, as are the supporting mods, to utilize the high boost pulley.

Do I need to retune for the high boost pulley?

Yes! You need to get a custom tune.

What if I don't change the injectors. Won't I be okay with the high boost pulley?

No, you will run out of injector, causing you to lean out, which can lead to catastrophic engine failure. Larger injectors are mandatory with the high boost pulley.

Can I run 91 octane with the High Boost pulley?

Technically? Yes. You can also Technically run 87 octane on a stock FRS/BRZ. If you wouldn't ever run 87 in your twin, the same applies with 91 octane and the High Boost pulley. 91 octane should be reserved for emergencies only, and should only be used to limp around.

** DO NOT BOOST on 91 **
** DO NOT REDLINE on 91 **

You are putting your engine at risk if you go WOT or redline with 91 octane on the high boost pulley

Is a clutch upgrade mandatory (MT cars) with the High Boost pulley?

If you are on gasoline (93+ or unleaded race gas), no. If you are running E85, meth injection, water injection, leaded fuel, yes. Your OEM clutch will not be able to hold this much power.

Are upgraded injectors and fuel pump REALLY necessary?

Yes. With increased boost (and airflow), you will need to supply more fuel to your engine to prevent leaning out.

Will Jackson Racing be releasing a tune for the high boost pulley?

No, the only tune that will be available for the JRSC from Jackson Racing is the CARB legal tune. That tune cannot be used with the high boost pulley.

Do I need a MAP sensor?

Yes. You will need a Speed Density tune to utilize the high boost pulley. The factory MAF will not be able to accurately measure the increased airflow.

Is this safe for my engine?

Every high boost pulley JRSC setup is custom. The safety of your custom setup is determined by your tuner. Please consult with your tuner as to what best suits your goals.

What fuels are recommended for the high boost pulley?

93octane (MON+RON)/2 or higher unleaded gasoline
E85
Race gas

How long does a pulley swap take?

On a cool engine, it can be performed in about 5-10 minutes.

How do I install the high boost pulley?

- Let the car cool down, if it isn't already
- Remove the charge pipe connecting the air straightener/MAF housing to the throttle body
- Break loose the 6 hex bolts that secure the pulley onto the supercharger
- Release the tension on the serpentine belt. I usually push down the factory tensioner, and then pull the belt out from around the alternator. You can then release the factory tensioner and the belt will be slack
- Take out all 6 hex bolts from the pulley
- Swap pulleys
- Apply a dab of red locktite to the hex bolts and re-insert them to secure the pulley to the supercharger. Hand tighten loosely.
- Press down on the factory tensioner, and re-install belt. Release tensioner. Verify that the belt is properly routed. *double check belt to make sure it is properly routed
- Torque down the 6 hex bolts to spec.
- Reinstall the final charge pipe.

Note: the belt provides all the support/traction you need to break loose and tighten the bolts attaching the pulley to the supercharger.

so all I gotta due is install and Vroom 370 whp?!?! :eyebulge:

Along with injectors, fuel pump, and custom tune.

How is putting down that much power at the track? What tire setup?

Does the no 91 restriction also apply to those of us in high altitude (4-5k ft) environments like Utah and Colorado where 91 is the standard?

No 91.

Yeah I got that. I'm referring to high altitude situations where "...lower air pressure at high altitudes allows vehicles to perform as well on 85 octane as they would on 87 at a lower altitude." (Albeit an older article: http://www.aaa.com/aaa/006/EnCompass...r_AutoTalk.htm).

So what I'm wondering is if 91 high altitude would technically work as well as 93 at sea level were it seems 99% of vendors are located. The biggest issue then being the amount of air to create boost...but that's beside the issue.

You could use the small pulley to put the boost pressure back to sea level CARB setting with 91 when driving at high altitude. But that looks really dangerous in case you drive the car at lower altitude.

That's purely dependent on the driver. We haven't had any problems, and we've been running the small pulley on and off for over a year.

It's your car, but I wouldn't risk it with mine. I understand what you're saying, and what you're talking about, but I still wouldn't do it.

Understood, but would appreciate knowing what tire setups you've been running.

Thx

Well, since you asked...

17:
215 stock tires, square
225 RS3 square
225 Z2 square
225 RC1 square
235 RC1 square
255 RC1 square
215 SX2 square
225 SX2 square
245 SX2 square
225 RE11A square
225 AD08R square

18:
255 DW-T square
255 RS3 square
265 DWT Square

You're really making me work for this one... Which of these did you like best with the high boost pulley?

TBH, putting the power down really wasn't an issue; but you have to look at our *whole* system, to understand why:

Just the back:
- CSG SRC
- Flatwell/SPL traction arm
- various subframe inserts
- SPL LCA
- LSD (Cusco/OS Gilen/ATS; changes regularly)

Unless you have similar work done, with an otherwise identical tire, we'd have better corner-exit and straight-line grip than a stock or near-stock car.

I always prefer having more grip, which would give the win to the 255 RC1, but if you want the *fastest* setup, skinnier tires are still faster for a single qualifying lap, or even a staggered setup, depending on the car.


My concern/hesitation here, is that you're asking a very open ended question, whos answer can be very misinterpreted. Just because something works for me, doesn't mean it'll work for you. Straightline grip will always be a concern with increased power levels, but not everyone is going to be willing to run R-comps or drag radials on the street, and stickier ties come with their own sets of detriments. The easiest solution (and perhaps the wisest) is to judiciously use the increased power. If you wouldn't floor it in a Vette in that area, you probably shouldn't with a 370WHP FRS :)