DIY: Japanese quick fix for clutch pedal's weird feeling
 

I discovered that many japanese guys do this on their cars, I tried and it actually works!
Locate the slave cylinder in your engine bay, loosen the 2 screws that keep it in place, and retighten them (37 Nm for precise people) while keeping it pushed towards the cabin. Done.
There is quite enough play, you'll probably gain around 1 mm, and this makes a lot of difference.
The clutch engage point will be lower, smoother, and the shifting will be smoother, too. Even that s*****y 2nd gear will engage much better.

Gave it a try this morning. I already have removed the assist spring, adjusted the clutch pedal to be slightly below the brake pedal and replaced the slave cylinder with the larger one (as per this post). This tweak is easy to do and noticeably tightened up the feel of the clutch pedal. Not mind blowing, but a nice free mod. It feels like it took out some slop from the clutch mechanism.

For those without a torque wrench, I'll repeat the advice from the slave cylinder swap thread - the mounting bolts are hard to open. This is not due to high closing torque, so when tightening the bolts down make sure to go easy on the wrench, 27 ftlb (37 Nm) is not a lot. Don't let the loosening force fool you into thinking you need to go all ugga dugga on the bolts.

I explored this the last time as well... but good to know there was improvement on your end.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143028

I took a peak at your other thread. Did you not have a positive experience in doing this modification?

Unfortunately not much of a difference. I had to remove the slave cylinder as I was relubricating the pushrod and clutch fork at that time.

Ops, sorry, I missed your thread...
Anyway, I think that the benefits depends on the stock fitting podsition of every cylinder...

Oh no, not about that... :) But @Ultramaroon did mention that our clutch is self adjusting, so technically it would not make a difference on how the rod is positioned against the fork.

☐ gets it
☑ oh well
https://i.imgur.com/6O2u0On.jpg

Self adjusting means that the gain of play during wear out will be adjusted automatically, that's how an hydraulic clutch works. Wearing out, the fork lever position moves a little toward cabin, so the slave cylinder will rest on that position, removing the play. But the total excursion will remain the same, so moving the cylinder toward the fork let use all it's excursion to depress the fork. It's like having a little more pedal excursion.

No. That's just wrong. I'm not arguing against you wasting your time. I just can't allow this misinformation to spread without my objection.

What do you mean it's wrong? That's exactly how it works.
Your post in the other thread is not correct, the slave cylinder is fully extended (that doesn't mean on the bumpstop) when pedal is fully depressed, it's not longer and limited by the clutch extension (this would need a bypass for oil, or the pedal would not fully depress).
Simply, clutch needs some extension to disengage (8 mm for stock Exedy clutch), but the plate can be pressed more. Moving the slave cylinder position simply presses it more changing the engaging point of the pedal.
Numbers in example: if the slave cylinder has 15 mm excursion, and 5 are used to correct play, I'll have 10 mm of excursion left. If I move it 2 mm (I remove 2 mm of play), I'll have 13 mm of excusion left.
In every cases, the excursion will not be limited by the clutch.

Grab the tip of the fork and pull it forward. Don't talk about it. Do it. It should be crystal clear that nudging the position of the slave cylinder does absolutely nothing. The whole system still comes to rest with the TOB just touching the pressure plate.

You aren't removing any play. It's not there at all.

For anyone that tries this, don't panic when your clutch pedal sinks to the floor. Just pull it up and pump it a couple times. It's fine.

What's 37 Nm in 'Murican?