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-   -   Wheel stud replacement (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21563)

Dave-ROR 11-06-2012 01:20 PM

Wheel stud replacement
 
This covers the replacement of the wheel studs and assumes you have access to a press. You can hammer out the old studs on the car and install using a lugnut and washers, but I have access to a press and wanted to document the "preferred" way of doing so.

Currently this covers the front studs, I'm waiting on the studs for the rear to be delivered.

Required parts:
-New Studs, either ARP or OEM:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/stud1.jpg

-Comparison of OEM vs ARP:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/stud2.jpg

1. Remove brakes:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub1.jpg

2. Remove these 4 bolts (not the lower bolt joint bolt, but the four that hold the hub/bearing to the knuckle):
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub2.jpg

3. Remove ABS speed sensor:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub3.jpg

4. Use base surface mounting area to support it on press blocks:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub4.jpg

5. Use the special tool.. or sockets to support hub from moving/tilting:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub5.jpg

6. Press out each stud, repeat for the next 4.

7. Clean surface a bit:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub6.jpg

8. Put back in press as follows:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub7.jpg

9. Press new studs in:
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub8.jpg

10. Reinstall hub, torque 4 hub/bearing carrier bolts to 48ft-lbs.

11. Reinstall speed sensor, torque speed sensor bolt to 5.5ft-lbs.

12. Reinstall brakes. Caliper bracket to knuckle bolts get torqued to 59ft-lbs.

Also tested the socket installation method instead of the press, but I messed it up. Easy to use a press. If you hammer them out and use washers it works, but I suggest the proper way :)

Example of messed up stud due to socket (too lazy to find large washers, washers should NOT do this):
http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/stud3.jpg

Dave-ROR 11-06-2012 01:21 PM

Rear studs: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=43

Dave-ROR 11-06-2012 01:22 PM

Reserved for any additional expansion.

jdrxb9 11-06-2012 01:35 PM

Nice write-up.

One alternative to both the press or the hammer is:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

I couldn't bring myself to beat on my nearly new hubs, so I used this tool to change out 2 studs with severely damaged threads. Did the install by the traditional nut and stack-of-washers method with no problems.

markitect 11-06-2012 01:58 PM

On a much older crappier car that had a broke stud I used the wheel and lugnut to get it back on, that way you don't need any washers. Simply hammer out half the studs at a time, then put the new studs in, and attach the wheel with the ones you aren't replacing, then put on the remaining lugnuts and pull the studs in place. Then take the wheel back off and replace the other half.

Dave-ROR 11-06-2012 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markitect (Post 541911)
On a much older crappier car that had a broke stud I used the wheel and lugnut to get it back on, that way you don't need any washers. Simply hammer out half the studs at a time, then put the new studs in, and attach the wheel with the ones you aren't replacing, then put on the remaining lugnuts and pull the studs in place. Then take the wheel back off and replace the other half.


That can scratch the hell out of the mating surface between the wheel and lugnut though, depends on how much you care I suppose :)

Rayme 11-06-2012 02:23 PM

Nice write up thanks.

Are these to install spacers? (the good way?)

Dave-ROR 11-06-2012 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ottopilot (Post 541951)
Nice write up thanks.

Are these to install spacers? (the good way?)

I installed them for a couple of reasons, spacers to clear the replacement front brakes was one of them. Also the studs are stronger than OEM and a few track guys have already had to replace some OEM ones. I try to use them on cars I track because they don't break as often (I've yet to have one break). they also make it easy to mount the wheel, they hold the wheel on much easier than the stock short studs, not a big deal if you use jackstands but annoying to have it on a lift and have to lift tire/wheel, hold it while grabbing lugnuts.

Hanakuso 11-06-2012 02:57 PM

Awesome. I was thinking of doing this but I had no idea. I'm probably going to go with stock length studs, that's if they make them

King Tut 11-06-2012 03:31 PM

Thanks for the DIY Dave. Looking forward to your write up for the rears.

Dave-ROR 11-06-2012 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by King Tut (Post 542110)
Thanks for the DIY Dave. Looking forward to your write up for the rears.

I'm not.. lol

Evil86 11-09-2012 09:23 AM

I don't have access to a press, but I did have a ballpeen. If done on the car, the hub has to rotated a bit to remove and replace the stud, but it is not a real pia.

My washer definitely didn't do what your socket did.

And now I know what kind of studs to use. The stock one are kinda sucky. I've broken three, two in the back and one in the front. I keep two spare just in case now.

Dave-ROR 11-09-2012 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evil86 (Post 547768)
I don't have access to a press, but I did have a ballpeen. If done on the car, the hub has to rotated a bit to remove and replace the stud, but it is not a real pia.

My washer definitely didn't do what your socket did.

And now I know what kind of studs to use. The stock one are kinda sucky. I've broken three, two in the back and one in the front. I keep two spare just in case now.

Yeah the washers won't do it, I was just too lazy to go find washers to document that method :)

Probably easy enough to take the hub out of the car, use a vise (or anything else) and do the hammer method, space would be a lot more abundant that way. :thumbup:

cobrabyte 11-09-2012 09:49 PM

Regular lug nuts fit these things or do you need open-ended lug nuts?


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