DIY-Replacing Rear View Mirror/Hardwire Radar Detector
DISCLAIMER: I am NOT responsible for any damage you may do to your car.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!! Pull the rubber molding down around the door frame http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=844 Pull the top of the A-pillar trim towards the center of the car. You will see this: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=845 These green clips need to come off: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=846 Rotate 90-degrees with a pliers, and work them out. They can be tough. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=847 http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=848 Remove the 2 screws holding the visor in place http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=849 Using two flat-head screw drivers, push in the slots to pop the clips holding the visor mount in place. You do NOT need to push hard! http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=850 http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=851 Repeat on other side. Remove the light http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=852 http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=853 This is the adapter you'll need. I bought it off eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290195434507...S:3160&vxp=mtr http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=854 Remove OEM mirror by twisting the base 90-degrees, then sliding down. Remove OEM clip http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=855 Replace with clip from kit http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=856 Slide in piece http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=857 Put base on, and attach with screws http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=858 http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=859 Pull down the head liner. NOTE, there is a white clip visible once the light comes down. Use your fingers to carefully detach it. Look in the headliner. Thanks to ft86club member tonystewart pointing out, there is already a wire harness available. It is held in with blue tape. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=860 http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=861 There are 3 wires. Blue: (+) Reverse White: (+) Positive Black: (-) Negative http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=862 Connect your wires for your mirror and/or radar detector according to the installation manual http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=863 Tuck the wires back up, and re-install all the stuff you took down. Once done, slide your mirror on and tighten the screw. I used a short wire cover that was cut even shorter to hide the wires http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=864 Finished product http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...&pictureid=866 |
You can avoid pulling the headliner if you wire the radar to the mirror-side plug. You can then reach the harness with your hand through the map-light opening. Has the advantage of keeping the factory wiring intact.
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Yeah, I guess that could make it easier :thumbup:
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Outstanding effort,thank you
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what are those wire junctions called? and where can i get em?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-3M-951-T-...item2c65b1d789 |
Please help me understand... I found the "extra" harness (probably for the BRZ auto-dimming mirror?) and I found the 3 wires you described. I checked for voltage on them. I got 0 on blue, 0 on white, and 0.06V on the black wire. I was touching off on one of the body bolts inside of the door for ground. I checked the lamp wires and found 12V, so I had a good ground. I did this with the key both ON (RUN) and OFF.
I am wiring in a Valentine 1. My understanding is that I am looking for switched 12V to tap into, right? Did you find 12V on that "extra" harness? Thanks. |
The BLACK wire is ground (-)
The WHITE wire is 12V (+) switched The BLUE wire is 12V (+) for reverse For your V1, use the Black (-) and White (+). :thumbup: |
Nice write-up. I hard-wired my V1 to the fuse box; I got a little add-a-fuse thing that uses an empty slot in the fuse box. I ran the wire from the right side of the mirror, tucked it into the front edge of the headliner, and ran it down behind the A-pillar trim. You don't have to remove the weatherstripping: just squeeze the trim at the top near the headliner and it will pop off. I didn't disconnect it from the green clip; I was able to get the bottom of the trim away from the dash, leaving more than enough room for running the wire behind it. I made sure to run the wire behind the existing bundle of wires to avoid fouling the air bag.
I prefer this solution to cutting wires. The only modification I had to do was to drill a hole in the fuse box cover so that the add-a-fuse could poke through. |
I'm going to need to read up on how to do this for my radar detector. I really hate the cord always being in front of the shifter and my line of sight.
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I'm buying a Savvy for my daughters V1 setup, just run one wire across the roof line and down the drivers A pillar to the OBD Port
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Instead of hardwiring the radar detector just use the 12v jack that hidden in the glovebox. It's on the top right hand side in the FR-S. no cutting or splicing wires
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Oh wow! Awesome write up!
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3 Attachment(s)
Here are pictures of how I installed mine.
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Oh OK, now I understand what you did.
BTW, for anyone who did hardwire it, how did you ground it? I see the ground wire, but the harnesses I've seen have a screw hook for the ground. |
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Blue: (+) Reverse White: (+) Positive Black: (-) Negative So for a radar detector, use the Black for your ground, White for your positive. There is no need to ground to the chassis of the car. |
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Are you referring to something like this:
Passport 8500 Hard Wire In that link, there is a red push-on connector and a black ring terminal. The black ring terminal just needs to be cut off and attached to the black wire in the factory harness. Does that still answer your question? |
That's exactly what I'm talking about. As someone who hasn't really done electrical work before, what's the best way to attach it to the ground wire? Can I hook the cut wire up to a T-Tap?
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If you can't find the connectors, let me know. We may be able to work something out for me to send you some. |
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I wanted to add to this thread. I had my valentine 1 hardwired into my 04 STi utilizing the oem compass mirror harness. I happened to have the mirror sitting around so I hacked off the harness coming from the mirror, and put quick disconnects on the newly exposed wires.
I then took the hardwire kit for my valentine 1 and put quick disconnects on the exposed wires here as well. I then found the wires that were hot and ground and hooked those up correctly on the harness, and plugged it into the car. So when I traded my STi for the BRZ I pulled the harness back out and had it sitting around waiting to see if it would work in the new car. So today I went out to check it out and, yep for me this install was plug and play. http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...626_182459.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...626_182506.jpg So yep I was able to plug it all in and tuck the wires. Took me all of maybe 10 minutes. for reference the blue is switched power on the factory 04 compass mirror harness and black is ground. |
Hypothetically speaking, if I were to accidentally cut through the three wires while trying to expose them for the t-taps, is there any problems with just covering them up with electrical tape where the white plug used to be... hypothetically speaking of course.
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But yes, hypothetically speaking, you can just tape off the ends of the wires. INDIVIDUALLY please. :party0030: |
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I think I'm going to do an install of this nature but instead of a radar detector I'm going to mount front and rear DVR cameras.
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Otherwise, if black is connected to black, and red to white, then you could have blown a fuse trying to install it. :( |
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Took the detector apart, don't see any fuse, but the pins attaching the plug to the board, and the screen to the board have a brown liquid around them. I think I just chalk it up to stupidity and move on to just doing it in the glove box outlet and through the pillar like some others have.
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My Install
Followed the directions here to tap into the existing wiring behind the light. I have a Beltronics 955: http://www.beltronics.com/store/vector-955.html and got the direct wire kit: http://www.beltronics.com/store/dire...tplug-red.html.
Snipped the + and - off the ends of the direct wire kit, and used vampire taps to connect them to the corresponding + and - on the factory harness. The direct wire kit comes with an inline fuse, make SURE if you wire your detector you put a fuse inline on the + lead to avoid having to buy a new detector if you screw up the wiring. I've already replaced the factory deck with a Pioneer P4400BH, so I wasn't using the factory bluetooth mic any more. Decided that I'd get out the dremmel tool and a zip tie to mount the direct wire kit onto the faceplate of the factory bluetooth mic. Here's some photos: https://www.whataboutbob.org/downloa...-50-18_595.jpg https://www.whataboutbob.org/downloa...-50-37_990.jpg :party0030: |
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Thanks for posting!
Just hooked up my Valentine. I didnt have a white wire, it was grey (see photo). Also, the vampire tap that comes with the V1 kit is too big for these wires so I used posi taps to hook it up. |
Thanks for all the useful info! i just finished hardwiring my radar detector for my FR-S. VERY easy to do because of all the postings. Bought red the T-Tap connectors (telephone-tap connectors) for 18-22 gauge wiring from Radio Shack and used the t-taps to connect to the wires of the extra harness found above the map-light. Black was ground and White (looked more like grey) for +. Used the hard wire kit with built-in fuse I had ordered from my radar detector's web site. Threaded the wiring between the headliner and windshield with my fingers and connected to the radar connector. I found the hardest part was finding the extra harness itself (Found it reaching past the bluetooth mic secured with blue tape enveloped in grey foam). Disconnecting the map-light made it less cumbersome. It only took 5-10 minutes to complete. Thanks again to everyone for posting how to do this!
update: It's been over 2 years since the install and no problems with the t-tap connectors whatsoever. |
Just a heads up as I didn't see any info about this. T-Taps are not recommended by most people with electrical knowledge as they are unreliable and can fail in the long run (google it for more info). I was originally planning to T-tap it but I figured it wouldn't be too difficult to strip and solder the wire on directly and just electrical tape it for piece of mind.
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After checking all vacant spots in the fuse box for a possible missing fuse for the harness I consulted with :bow:Lil Abner and he raised the possibility that I might have blown a fuse testing the connector for power. ... and that's where the problem was! I blew a fuse testing the connector:bonk:. This is the same fuse that controls"Main body ECU and outside rear view mirrors". It slipped under the radar (no pun intended) because I almost never have to check the side mirrors. The fuse is in the box under the dash. Be prepared to do some yoga to get there. In any case is a 10Amp fuse (no. 1 on page 279 in the manual) |
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