2022: Is there any risk to buy an 2013 FR-S now ?
 

Since we've made it so many years from introduction...I'd assume the early growing pain + the valve spring warranty risk is minimized now? If the example is running well....

1. Mysterious fuel pump crickets from back in day
2. OG 2013 ECU Tune caused gaskets to be burned/destroyed
3. Toyota techs doing warranty work busted engines
4. coil packs?
5. random little issues


Background: Planning on buying a el cheapo (but not abused) FR-S to make into a budget track oriented car sooner or later.

Well there are things that are now sorted as you pointed out:
-we know where we stand with the valve spring recall
-on 10yo cars, the ones that were due to suffer catastrophic engine failures already have
-coil packs are still failing every now and then, but it's $100 and a 30 minute roadside job. Just carry a spare (I don't).

But you'll start seeing other issues typical on a budget, 10yo sports car:
-abused examples with shot suspension / running gear
-badly maintained cars on their nth owner
-potential for hidden accident damage

... and if you want to avoid this, a clean, full history, low miles FRS ain't that cheap either.

I'd plan on refreshing the suspension anyways so the old car suspension wouldn't worry me. The catastrophic failures are what scare me, and knowing it would've nuked the engine by now is relieving. A good inspection would sort out the rest!

Ideally a 120k mile 2013 FRS, when the car market returns to normal. Thanks for the reply!

If the recall was done a while ago and the car is still running it will be fine. More cars survived the recall than died from it anyway.

Not sure what you are talking about with gaskets. Never was a problem I have seen on here.

Coil packs wear out eventually anyway.

Crickets seem to have died of old age for most people.

Really, as said, it is just a 10 year old car with all the things that come with any car of that age.

Risks are definitely there but probably differ per-car. If you were to buy my 2013 car you'd inherit its mechanical wear and first generational flaws and shortcomings. But also its good service / maintenance history.

To touch some points that are major to through ownership as a 2013 owner:

-oil and filters changed at short intervals, often under 3000 miles. Gearbox and diff fluids changed when necessary.

-clutch throw-out bearing replaced, changed to updated part

-J02 valve spring recall, engine service performed and driven trouble-free 30k miles since.

-Spark plugs changed every 50,000 miles.

-wheel studs upgraded to ARP studs. the factory subaru studs broke.

-replaced one ABS sensor (broken during wheel stud install, threw car into limp mode with CEL)

-driveline bushing replacement and modifications seemed necessary after 100k miles. Positive shift and positive traction kits fix a lot of issues on cars that are now high-mileage. But this alters the handling of the car, makes it stiff and loud. Did this for no other reason but to fix the car.

-crickets are not so much a problem as they were made to seem. Cricket noise usually comes with moisture and humidity. Rarely hear it much these days. The fuel injectors are loud on this car.

As for future servicing, my OEM suspension front strut top hats are showing wear and might come apart if I don't change the suspension to coilovers soon.

buy 2014+

I'd stay away from the 1st model year generally speaking. For any OEM and any car, for that matter.
I'd avoid 2013 and 2022 models

I bought the first one I saw back in '13. Manufactured 12/12. Put over 200,000 miles on it. Only problems are TOB's and a worn out e-brake boot. And I'm more reactive than proactive on maintenance.
If I didn't already have one, I would have no problem with buying a '13 at the right price.

I'm with @WNDSRFR, no issue repurchasing a MY13 at the right price and mileage. Over 210K miles with 100K on the the spring recall. Never really had the crickets, which was "cosmetic" anyway.

Still drive it 18K to 20K a year.

Mine's still running fine.
I think the cricket thing is just a different sounding boxer engine than most people are used to.
I can identify an air cooled VW boxer a block away just by the sound.
Clutches and various other things are wear items and everyone needs to maintain their cars. Or should.

There are always risks with buying ANY used car.

Or new car, for that matter (see Toyota EV, 2022 86, long list of others)

Buy it.
2013 owner here, car built in the middle of 2013, 10,627th BRZ chassis built.
34,900+ track miles, original engine, transmission, TOB, clutch, HPFP still going strong...
Things to note:

• Car is under the valve spring recall, never had it completed. Won't unless one actually breaks...
• Replaced the engine wiring harness w/ the updated coil packs. Haven't had another issue.
• HPFP chirping went away...or it never had it...it's never been a problem.

Want the engine/car to last? Keep up with the maintenance...
Change oil & filter regularly, using quality synthetic oil & filter.
If tracking use a better viscosity synthetic oil. 0W-30 or 5W-30 & change more often
Change Trans & diff fluids regulary, use quality synthetics.
Change spark plugs regulary, use only NGK
Don't drift - High RPM's coupled with oil g-loaded on one side of the oil = :suicide:
Don't money shift - High RPM's = :suicide:

I bet that has taken out more of these cars than all the recalls, bad, tunes and other causes put together.

It is one of those "Oh I never did anything wrong" things though so other reasons get blamed.