^ i wonder if its even necessary. the battery is already mid mounted on the firewall

THIS DAILY INFORMATION FLOOD IS SO SICK!!

THANK YOU!

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...4&d=1320255335

Quick translation of yellow writing (due to work is killing me :cry:)

"Driver can control/adjust front & rear weight.
But driver cannot control/adjust center gravity, so we have focused on low center gravity."

bottom big white letters

"High focus of driver control f/r weight ratio"

wanted to translate more... but gtg, before my boss find out ;)

Direct Injection is a different ball game.

this website is like crack...

i get high sitting here reading info
im going to go through withdraws if this keeps up

Same here... it makes me feel like your avatar. :eyebulge:

So let me get this straight. The engine torque is peaky rather than flat and rich? If so I hate that shit.:mad0260:

The graph shows a "before" and "after" D4-S, with a 20NM gain and 10KW gain by using D4-S. The torque curve shape itself is more a function of the ports and combustion chamber [the main items that affect VE].

Thanks for the translation; it makes sense technically. DI can control cold-start and WOT combustion much better than PI. PI would be used mainly during low and medium load cruising, where stoich is relevant and wall-wetting or knock isn't an issue.

I still want some real numbers bolted on that graph to make it logical. At this point, based on the written specs on the scan, the dyno graph might actually be an "example" of how D4-S is effective, not the actual FA20 engine output.

power output reminds me of the Japanese 80s.

so much nostalgic win.

I wouldn't bother unless it's in front of the axle. It'll help a little but I wouldn't want it behind the rear axle. Properly securing the box so it passes tech seems to be something most people can't do (I've failed a TON of relocated batteries before for not insulating the pos term, having a solid box, mounting a box without huge fender washers, etc).

So with so much compression, does that mean FI is most likely a no no?

Light boost [perhaps as much as 10PSIg] would be possible, assuming the rest of the engine can cope with the BMEP increase. DI improves chemical quench remarkably [as in, less knock for a given dynamic compression ratio]

In a normal motor you'd have to be really careful and probably upgrade internals before too long (and lower comp). With DI, I have no idea as I'm not anywhere near familar enough with DI to say.

^ best option is to do a stroker kit and raise the stroke path maybe different pistons and lower the CR.

Much like what the mazdaspeed 3 does, with a small bore and long stroke to bring the CR down to 9.5:1 Direct Injection.

I cant seem much room for forced induction on stock internals.