DIY: Track Mode on 2013-2016 cars
Track mode on 2013-2016 DIY: We’re swapping the VSC module with a 2017-2020 unit. This gives us track mode and hill assist. WHY ARE WE DOING THIS? We’re nuts, that’s why. Track mode is a less aggressive version of sport mode on 2013-2016 cars, normal mode becomes a bit less intrusive as well. See Toyota’s info blurb about track mode in the 2017 cars:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/atta...1&d=1540902934 https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8a15474c1e.jpg Disclaimer: perform this mod at your own and your car's risk, yadayada nobody on FT86club is responsible for any repercussions due to this mod being performed or attempted. Original thread where @solidsnake11 did most of the legwork: LINK https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...62d1c34cd3.jpg Tools and parts needed: -2017-2018 VSC module (duh) -1 zip tie -Flathead screwdriver (small) -Connector pin release tool: Quote:
-10mm hex socket -External Torx sockets (4mm hex works too) -Small ratchet driver with a few short extensions -Small cutting tool Helpful but not mandatory: -Needle nose pliers Step 1: Remove VSC module connector Disconnect battery negative terminal. (10mm hex) Undo the connector from the VSC module, there is a lever lock holding it on. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...086b18cfa2.jpg Step 2: Repin the VSC module connector on 2013-2014 cars 2015-2016 cars, skip to step 3. Do not repin the connector! 15/16 cars are plug and play with the 17 module. 2013-2014 cars, let’s repin the connector. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...38fd8701f8.jpg Looking at the pins, there is a pink lock holding all the pins in. To unlock it slide all 4 pink tabs to the side where the wiring comes out of the back of the connector. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...153ac64e2d.jpg The backshell comes off by prying 4 tabs on the backshell itself. You can’t push the catch down, you have to pry the back shell up (blue highlighted section like my cartoon screwdriver shows below): https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...09d7bd5168.jpg Remove the black zip tie that wraps around the wire bundle. Now we’re ready to disengage and pull pins 27 (pink) and 32 (white). Each pin has a release catch formed into the pin itself. There is a hole right next to the pin where the release is accessible: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...acaf1c10d6.jpg The release tab is the same for all the pins in that region of the connector, but pins 14-36 don’t have the hole next to them. Instead it’s a U-shaped channel that serves the same purpose (see below). Release the pin by pushing a pin release tool (sewing needle or similar thin tool works as well) in the release hole as far as it’ll reasonably go. If using a needle use the blunt end, and try to find one that’s almost as thick as the height of the slot. Then pull on the wire on the backside. It’s tricky, but you shouldn’t need much force. Image below shows where the release is for pin 32: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d946955815.jpg Once those 2 pins are out, the hard part is done! Remove the rubber plugs out of the back of the 8 and 9 locations. You can push them out through the front with a thin tool, or pull them out from the back with tiny pliers or a sharp angled pick.(no pins present in these slots, just the rubber plug) Push the pins you pulled into the following locations: -Pink wire (sport button) from 27 to 9 -White wire (FL wheel speed sensor) from 32 to 8. You should feel a faint click, give the wire a very gentle tug to make sure it's seated all the way. Note, location 9 is marked ‘CLSE’ on most connectors. Re-engage the pink lock, and put the backshell back on. Install a new zip tie where we removed it earlier. Don't plug the connector into the VSC module yet since we're swapping that next. Step 3: Swap VSC Module Simply unbolt the VSC module from the aluminum ABS pump housing. Undo the 4 external torx bolts (4mm hex works, just be careful). You’ll need a small ratchet and maybe a short extension for the lower ones. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c20cd03277.jpg Pull the module off, slide the new one on, snug the bolts back up. Note: the picture below is to show the inside of both parts. You do not need to remove the aluminum housing from the car! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...165924f12d.jpg Connect harness back to VSC Module. Reconnect battery. Go for a drive. If you forgot to unplug the battery the ABS light will be on for ~half a mile. Sport button now has to be held for a second or two where it used to be instant. Reference info: ALL ZENKI YEARS CONFIRMED WORKING :happyanim: 2013 Repin required 2014 Repin required 2015 Plug and play 2016 Plug and play ABS pump assemblies/calibrations confirmed to have 2017 programming: 27536CA030 27536CA040 27536CA050 27536CA060 27536CA070 ***Get a module from a car with the same transmission as yours*** MT modules only work in MT cars and AT modules only work in AT cars. Most eBay listings will tell you the specs of the donor vehicle. Thank you @crabarts231 for confirming this! ***CHECK THE DATES ON THE NEW VSC MODULE ITSELF (black part). MAKE SURE THE YEAR MATCHES THE ABS PUMP YEAR*** Month and day don’t need to match. VSC module has 2 dates on it. The first ABS pump I bought had a 14-04-22 VSC module, presumably for a 2015. It worked fine with the repin but didn’t have the newer programming of course. That’s why everyone should make sure the year on the aluminum housing and the VSC module are the same. If my 2017 ABS pump had a 2015 module on it, maybe junkyards are mixing and matching parts. See below: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5a8168410d.jpg 2018 wiring diagram for reference Trippinbillies track mode assessment, one of the more detailed ones on this forum: Quote:
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Great job!!
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What is the benefit of doing this?
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Layman's terms - Normal is more willing to give you a little sideways fun but you still won't spin out unless you're trying to. Track mode isn't going to keep you from spinning out if you don't know what you're doing, but it will help keep you from going past the limit of the chassis if you're pushing your own skills. |
My colleague whom I mentioned in solidsnake11's thread did this job on MY15 but he didnot need to the pin relocation. Already same as MY17 format.
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DIY: Track Mode on 2013-2016 cars
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That actually makes sense. The first ABS pump I bought had a 14-04-22 VSC module, presumably for a 2015. It worked fine with the repin but didn’t have the newer programming of course. That’s why everyone should make sure the year on the aluminum housing and the VSC module are the same. My 2017 ABS pump had a 2015 module on it, maybe junkyards are mixing and matching parts. Sounds like 2015-2016 cars should skip the repin, DIY updated. Thanks! |
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thanks! now to find a module.
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what a great mod and guide - well done!
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https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show....php?p=2957629 Video in the first post. Embed not correct so you will have to copy it to browser. |
How can you tell if the ABS pump is off a manual/auto vehicle? Would it be the pump # (i.e. 27536CA030? Also, would it matter if it the VSC module came off a BRZ or 86? Are there differences between the two and can you swap a 17MY Toyota module onto a 13MY BRZ?
Thanks so much for this info! |
DIY: Track Mode on 2013-2016 cars
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Manual vs Auto is trickier. We're not sure if it actually makes a difference -EDIT: WE FOUND OUT IT DOES , transmission of the donor cat must match!- Most eBay listings will tell you the specs of the donor vehicle. |
Thanks everyone for contributing to this post. I didn't realize there was SUCH a difference between the early cars and later cars. I normally tell people to do the pedal dance, but may just be alright with them using the track mode in 17+ cars. The video from trippinbillies was helpful, and I know Chris is an excellent driver, as I drove with him regularly when he lived here. I trust his opinion. If I'm competing in a 17+ car I'd still do the pedal dance, but until reaching that level, it probably just doesn't really matter all that much. Thanks again.
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