2022 BRZ, Scargod's Mod's and Track Upgrades
 

Purchased a new WRB 2022 Limited BRZ on Dec 30, 2021.
My goal with the car is to improve the handling, braking and overall performance with the goal of keeping it street legal and domesticated enough to enjoy for extended driving while also making it my main track day car. Previously I have been playing in a 2008 STI, dedicated track car, that weights 2800 pounds and has 470 AWDHP. That is 6.4: 1 Power to Weight ratio. The BRZ will be about 12! Still, I'm sure it will put a smile on my face and be easier to maintain.

With less than 800 miles on the BRZ I've changed to an IRP shifter, added a Velox throttle pedal spacer kit for better heel-toe action, changed to a K&N air filter and put a APR Performance GTC 200 wing on the car. I've made a splitter of 6mm Alumalite and made carbon fiber struts to stiffen it from fluttering.
NOTE: The wing is lowered and less aggressive. See later pics.

I have fitted 17" winter wheels on it right now.
I have ready to go, 245/40ZR17 Toyo Proxes R888R on Apex ARC8 17 x 9 +42 wheels for track use. They fit beautifully with no effort.
The spindles have ARP 100-7717 Wheel Studs, M12 x 1.5 medium length studs with a coarser thread than Subaru's. They are meant for a 2002-2006 Mitsubishi Lancer. The reason is that they are more common thread size so lug nuts are easier to find/more standard.

A big Setrab 25-Row, Series 6 oil cooler, Part #50-625-7612, is mounted in the grille area, hung from the crash beam. A GReddy 12401126 Oil Cooler Sandwich Plate will make the transition and I'm using flexible and light Aeroquip -10 Startlite Race Hose. Seven quart capacity system.
A TRUST/GREDDY OIL PAN BAFFLE PLATE 13515902 is to be installed when I next pull the pan.

I'm waiting on Cygnus' specification, Fortune Auto, Performance X-1 Motorsport Edition Coilovers with high caster Cas/Cam plates, digressive valving and 7K Hyperco Springs.
I'm also waiting on the coilovers to install Voodoo 13 Rear LCA’s and RacerX adjustable, bump steer correcting, rear toe links at the same time.
The car will be lowered about an inch.
I will install stainless steel braided brake lines and bleed the brakes (changing to Motul 600).
A RacerX master cylinder brace is on order.
I'm working on a custom design trapezoidal vent for the front area of the hood.
I'm looking at Wilwood BBK's from RR Racing for the car.
Sway bars may be in the car's future.

For a start I will just put track pads on the stock crappy sliders.
I have a first track day scheduled for March 26th at Lime Rock Pak, CT with SCDA.

I found a used Nameless/Cosworth long runner header to 2.5" mid-pipe. It will likely go on once I have the suspension components and handling sorted.

Link to my STI track car Journal on IWSTI Car will be for sale shortly.

IRP shifter install in Gen II car
 

Here's one of the only two tricky things about the install of the IRP shifter.
The picture shows where it needs to be notched. The notch allows the pin to move back so reverse can be engaged. I used an X-Acto knife.
I drilled two holes directly above the two screws holding the shifter trim piece in. This allowed me to reach the screws below without removing more of the center console.
Lastly, I did not drop the transmission way down. I left the two rear bolts to the mount engaged and I was still able to work the aluminum frame around and get it out!
All the rest is pretty straightforward and there are videos that document the basic process.

Thanks for the IRP v3 on Gen2 post, friend was asking me about it and now I can point him your way!

In the process of routing my oil cooler hoses I took my washer tank out.
It was almost full and I thought, this is heavy!
It holds almost exactly five quarts, which is 10.4 pounds.

I've purchased plastic fittings so I can drain the reservoir when I track the car. At least on the Gen II cars there is a large plug on the tank that fits in a metal bracket. It stabilizes the bottom of the tank. I'm drilling and tapping it for 3/8" NPT threads and I'll be using a 2.5 inch nipple with a coupling on the end so I can screw a hex drive pipe plug into it (as a drain plug).
The parts will be epoxied together so hopefully the drain plug will be what unscrews. I will have a little of the coupler sticking out below the splitter that I can hang onto it.
McMaster-Carr parts:
4882K212 Thick-Wall Dark Gray PVC Pipe Nipple for Water, Threaded on Both Ends, 3/8 NPT, 2-1/2" Long
3736K186 Plastic Pipe Fitting for Oil, Straight Connector, 3/8 NPT Female Threaded Pipe

You can laugh, but that weight is in a terrible place. Just like the weight of the battery in my STI that I downsized and relocated.
UPDATE: I did the mod and it is going to work out. I' haven't glued it all together yet. Drilling and tapping the tank was not that simple. Internal ribbing goes into the area and leaves a lot of burrs to clean up inside. They are a bit hard to get to. I used a wood carving tool with a shaped end and was able to get most of it removed. It also doesn't leave as much thread as I would have liked. A better solution would be to weld on a poly fitting and go with a 1/4" NPT size.
The suggestion was made to use a valve, but with my using a plug the drain only sticks down below the splitter by 1/4" when finished and I don't have to make an access to a valve lever in the splitter.

Alumalite Splitter Ready to Mount
 

Here's the finished 6mm Alumalite splitter I've made. It projects 5 to 5.5 inches beyond the front lip of the fascia. The front edge is sealed with Permatex ULTRA GREY gasket maker. A rubber trim will form a small dam where the splitter meets the fascia. I bonded in nutserts to the plastic piece in the fascial that stiffens the bottom. One custom bracket in the center of the rear edge and it is supported.
It weights next to nothing!

I also picked up a WRB BRZ on December 30 haha
And when I was there another guy was picking up his grey BRZ.
What a coincidence

I have nothing to say really other than I really like these updates. Very nice ongoing build, keep us posted !

Caster and camber plates from Cygnus Performance. Below are Cygnus' Performance X-1 Motorsport Edition Coilovers. I'll show them when I get the height set.
The el cheapo master cylinder brace cost me $29.25 on Ebay. It's good quality and does the job. I did chose to use better mounting bolts with washers.

The other pic is the Voodoo LCA and RacerX toe link rods.
Attachment 210405

Attachment 210406

Loved your build over on iwsti, super excited to see this here!

Do you intend to adjust caster? If so, what makes you want to do that? I'm very new to suspension tuning.

Caster is something you almost can't get enough of. The "caster/camber" plates give me about 1.5° of additional positive caster that is non-adjustable. You could start slotting holes or reworking the shock tower.
I've been doing a rough alignment on the car since I've added a lot of new parts. Previously, I have always done my own alignments. This week I'll take it to a shop and see what they can do. A lot of alignment shops don't want to do race cars...
I couldn't get over, roughly, -2° camber on the front, left side. I was easily able to get -3.5° on the right! Tomorrow I'll put in a smaller diameter bolt up top on the knuckle.
I'm down to 3.5 inches of clearance in the front. That's about a 2" drop. I'm going to back it off to four inches. I wonder how high most speed bumps are?

First Track Day!
 

My first outing with the BRZ. I did a car control clinic. That was interesting. I got some rear end movement out of it but mostly the front end wanted to plow, so it was self-defeating, in that it made noise (the Michelins are noisy!) yet it was not the fast way around the course.
The car did do better on the race track, even though it was wet. Of five laps I timed, my average speed was 75. This was at Lime Rock, a 1.5 mile course. Still, on slower turns it understeered.
I'm running G-Loc R12 pads front and rear. They were fine in the rain! Very predictable and consistent. A little noisy on the road as I drove to and from the track with them.
There were two other new BRZ's there! One was in my advanced group, but he was hindered by tires that weren't great in the wet.
Attachment 210615

Are these splitter rods mounted to the flimsy plastic of your grille or is there more going on that tie it to your chassis that we cannot see?

The CF rod is attached to the steel crash beam with this McMaster-Carr ball joint linkage. I drilled it out to 5/16" so I could epoxy the rod into it. The only issue with my design is that you have to figure out the length exactly unless you slot the beam or make a special bracket to attach to the beam.
The grille is slotted a little, but you do not see it from above. When the splitter is on, the rod is positioned more forward in the notch I cut in the grille.
You can also see one of my Setrab oil cooler mount brackets attached to the beam.
Attachment 210684
I did a track day and there was no issue with any of it.
I think I will add a threaded end to the upper end of the rods so I can unscrew them from the top mount once I have removed the splitter. Then I won't have to remove the fascia to get at them.

2022 BRZ, Scargod's Mod's and Track Upgrades
 

Your wing is pretty high with a lot of AOA. That wing can handle being mounted below the roof line a bit. I run mine with the risers removed with less AOA, it was far too much with the standard riser setup and the car was considerably less drag limited on the straights.

Here is how mine sits. I’m not advocating running it as low as I do, but I believe reducing the height should help some.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6c4f72f403.jpg