To Everybody installing Forced Induction
 

...And everybody who already did, and just can't seem to get it running right.

This applies to every kit that doesn't replace the factory intake manifold. All turbos, and all centrifugal superchargers.

there is a small solenoid valve bolted to the underside of the intake manifold, pictured below.

This is the EVAP purge solenoid. It has a line running from the body of the valve to the intake manifold, under the throttle body. It is not clamped in place.

Many of the FI install directions miss it, many describe it poorly, and none picture it. Individuals, shops, and tuners have missed it on a regular basis.

This line pops off very easily under boost. When it does, it will create a large, invisible boost leak, and all of the associated tuning problems.

The line needs a 3/16" hose clamp at both ends. It doesn't hurt to clamp the line into the solenoid either.

Please sticky this. @ichitaka05

Another thread for reference

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46456



This is taken from my build thread.


The easy way to clamp those stupidly located hoses:

What happens if this happens to loosen and unplug>

Rough idle, vacuum and boost leak (if boosted).

i have JRSC and flexfuel and my car 2015 brz. Ran perfect for about 5 months. Now it runs a little rich on cruise and has a hard time turning on when its on full e85. on WOT, it shoots lean (17) and delivers no power sometimes(i let of the throttle right away)

took out fuel pump and put it back together but nothing. Cant figure it out.

-jackson racing c38 SC
-Jacksonracing dual radiator
-uel, full bolt ons
-DT flexfuel
-DW300 pump
-DW700cc injectors
-

Thankfully HKS supplied hose clamps and instructions to install them on the hose connected to that solenoid. It was a pain to access it, but a set of long-necked needle nose pliers helped immeasurably.

Hey I have a question that kind of relates to this post. I have a stock 2017 BRZ and was thinking of turbo charging to about 350-400 HP. My question is what PCV valve should I use and where I can get it from? Some people say the STI, but other than thte dealership where can I get it online?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...81#post1658081

Another thread with pics. I installed clamps from the top with long needle nose.

Hi Nightflo,

Are you still having issues with your SC? I'm looking into getting this one, I am trying to do as much research as possible before I take the dive.

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Is that why I couldn’t get my car dyno’ed correctly???

The person that tunes my car said it was my cam gears that’s not working properly. Therefore, it it kept going back to “0” every time the tuner reflashes it while on the dyno.

I’m not convince it’s the cam gears cause I can still drive it as we speak on daily basis as it is on a base map nothing to Crazy he got it up to 230whp on 10psi. Which my car has so much more potential since it’s a built motor.

Just want to say I took my car to its first ever track day on the weekend and surprise surprise after pushing it for a bit on the track.
This exact same issue happened to me.

Turbod hitting like 10.5psi I guess the heat eventually losens up that hose and it just gives out.

It is luckily like many have said here very noticeable and the car idles very rough.

HKS SC kit on the way
 

Have an HKS SC kit incoming and trying to dig into the details, nice to see it's covered by them. That adds confidence in the thoroughness of the kit for sure.

I have a vacuum leak, I am Turbod and I haven't done this. It looks like there are two schools of thought here, ac compressor or throttle body. It looks simple to remove the ac compressor but no one is talking about the belt.

Is it no problem putting that ac compressor back to the stress of the belt? I hope to dig around for that leak soon.

Remove the belt first.

FA20 ENGINE MECHANICAL: DRIVE BELT: REMOVAL; 2013 MY FR-S [03/2012 - ]