2013 Scion FR-S cranks but no start!!!
 

Hello everyone purchased a 2013 Scion FR-S AUTOMATIC recently. It had a spun bearing. I disassembled the engine and turned out crank was bad also. Ended up putting new crank bearings etc. Everything oem spec no modifications. The engine cranks but won’t start. I’ve compression checked all cylinders (all right at 150psi) I’ve checked for spark on each coil and spark plug, all checks out. Originally when I first assembled everything I had the direct injector rail off. when reinstalling rail didn’t have all seals on it so injectors leaked(one sign I knew my cylinders were getting fuel) That and all my spark plugs were wet when I pulled them to inspect . Obviously I put all brand new seals and no leak now. I’ve checked the crank positioning sensor and it works. 110% sure I’ve installed the timing chain correctly and have everything lined up correctly. Ive been reading into all types of forums and different situations. I installed trigger plate correctly so can rule that out. The car is throwing no codes except p1604 which is startability malfunction. Obviously throwing that cause car won’t start haha I’m at the point I’m just trying to figure out where else to check. Any advice anyone?? Before anyone asks yes I’ve checked all fuses, I’ve checked battery voltage, had my truck hooked up to to jump it. Starter fluid the whole 9. Just kind of stumped. I wanna take it to a dealer but hell as deep as I’ve looked into the car I’m afraid my diagnostic bill will be insane. I will see if I can post video of the crank onto this post. I’m new to forums so I really don’t know how to work this haha anyways, any advice will be helpful.

If it does not even start/pop with starting fluid and you have spark and fuel then you are down to valve timing. Probably 360 off?

When I spray with start fluid just backfires. How would I go about checking valve timing? And 360 off?

I guess one thing I didn’t mention. When installing the engine I broke a vvt solenoid. I didn’t get it replaced. Would that maybe have something to do with my timing being off?

I know you say your positive your timing chain was installed correct, however there had to be a mistake in assembly/installation somewhere. VVT is only going to change valve timing a little, it more sounds like you my be sparking on top dead center exhaust stroke. Just a thought.

I followed this guide when installing the timing chain. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...87902-5448.pdf

All my colors on timing chain lined up with all timing marks. Is it possible it was still installed incorrectly? I figured it was very straight forward but Maybe something I missed

Are you absolutely sure you installed the VVT controllers back in the same place they came from? They are not interchangeable and are specific to the side and intake / exhaust orientation.

No I broke the sensor tab on my vvt controllers. I bought new ones.... do I have to like reprogram them or!? Broke both on right side of the engine. They got caught on that dang little tab

Not sure I was not there when it was assembled. What you are describing sounds like it could be valves or spark is not happening at the correct time. This is all 1000 mile speculation. At this point you are going to have to go on an exploratory mission to find the issue. this could end up with a engine disassembly. Start simple work your way to the difficult issues.

I’m definitely seeing it could be valve or timing related issue. I’ve disassembled this engine twice. Inspected heads and all. I’m just curious because I followed the guide in the link above to the absolute T and spun crank never jumped a tooth or anything. Now I’m wondering if the vvt solenoid being broke has anything to with it. I didn’t notice it at first and I attempted to crank motor with broke vvt so I have a feeling maybe that could of thrown something outta place...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think your oil control solenoids are energized during cranking. I remember reading somewhere that there is either a time or temperature-based delay that must occur before they are allowed to energize.

There is definitely some kind of relay that gets stuck open and buzzes if you have bad start because low voltage and/or temperature. It was happening to me before I replaced my battery. I replaced mine at about 40k too but it was more like 4 years rather than 2...


OOPS sorry I think I mixed this up with another thread. [emoji849][emoji28]


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Man this thing is gonna beat me. I’ve done everything I can think. The timing is not off, the compression reads good numbers, it’s getting fuel, it’s getting spark, I’ve checked cam sensors, crank sensor, no codes, all grounds secure, all fuses good, trigger wheel facing correct way, and battery is good. Is there anything anyone thinks I can check?? If it helps any I can post a video of me cranking it. One thing I notice when it’s cranking is it sounds like it’s misfiring and the injectors on my intake manifold have been leaking slightly now (wasn’t doing this before)

The car need a manifold pressure drop detected to start. look at manifood pressure when ignition on it should bead 14 psi or 1 bar or 100kpa, when cranking this should drop. if itdoesnt car wont start, if map sensor manifold pressure is bad or not stock it wont start.


check the di computer on side of engine has all three mount bolts in and tight or won't start or run or run badly.


Im assuming your runnog stock tune and engine jas stock injectors and map sensor fitted.


Also try unpligging the Mass air flow sensor this is the on on intake near air filter ( not the map sensor on intake manifold) with maf sensor unplugged see if engine starts. unplugging tgis sensor forces the ecu into a very basic limp mode.