Engine Stalled, Rough Idle And Knocking Noise On Startup
 

Hi everyone,

I am going to give as much info as possible. I have a 2014 Subaru BRZ A/T with 87k miles. Mods are Skunk2 Catless EL headers, Stage 2+ OFT tune, Greddy SP Elite Axleback headers. The headers and tune were done literally a week before this happened. It was driving fine all week until this happened: I was driving on Friday, I had to do a 2 point turn, when I came to a complete stop to do the turn, the engine stalled. I turned the car off but it would not turn back on it would try but wouldn't turn over, got a boost from my moms car and my friends car and nothing. Took the battery and alternator out, got them tested at two different parts stores, they both were good, nothing was wrong with them. Although Pep Boys told me the battery was low on charge. I put them back in the car and tried to turn it on. It struggled to start but finally turned over. It sounds super super rough though. Here is the video of when it started after I put the alternator and battery back in:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yz8O4XW4CBA



A lot of the guys on Facebook groups are telling me my engine is done. I dont know how I didn't do anything to warrant a failed engine. Honestly since the pandemic started I haven't even been driving much. Thanks in advance for any and all help. I am literally praying my engine isn't finished.

Definitely sound like a trash motor. Pull the dip stick and check for glitter or water.

You hit a puddle recently? Or forget to change your oil for 20k miles?

Also, with the rpms fluctuating and all that noise if it were anything external you would be hard pressed to miss it on a quick visual inspection.

Definitely sounds like it’s knocking, hate to see that for you. My 65k 2014 motor did the same seemingly out of no where. I paid a dealer a diag fee who wanted to tear it down to confirm failure but at that point I knew to replace.

Here’s what I did to replace it:

Search for an engine on car-part.com

You’ll want to find:
An engine from the same model year/transmission
An engine with no cracks, tested, warranty, and ideally provides a core refund plus the cost of picking up the core included.

When my 2014 started knocking (non recall related) I paid about $2500 for the motor and another $2000 having a local performance shop do the engine swap.

That almost sounds like it could be something on the accessory belt. I wouldn't run it anymore though until you figure it out in case it is internal. I don't see any CEL though..

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Yikes really hope thats not the case

Yeah so I have no CEL, I used my OFT tablet to read the ECU and there are no codes there either. I started it again after I made this thread the the knocking went away significantly but its still there. There was a lot of squeaking coming from the belt though. You can see it in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxGnYk42jA8

No and no, after that video I took I did do an oil change just to see if there were any metal pieces in the used oil, I had none which I am happy to say. I am bringing it to a shop tomorrow, lets see what happens.

Sounds to me like a Ford Model T running.


I'll go with something to do with the belt theory.

I suggest you take the belt off and fire it up for a moment to see if the sound is still there.

I hope it's minor.

Praying, its minor, I'm on a Facebook BRZ/86/FRS group and everyone is say the motor is finished.

Hey everyone, I brought the car to a shop today, they told me the engine is blown and I need to get a new one. Super bummed, but thank you all for your help I really appreciate it. Not sure what Im going to do now

Shop told me the motors done though

Doesn’t sound like rod knock.

This is rod knock.

https://youtu.be/Y5IFdDXJ2YY

I thought the same. The tensioner moves in sync with the knocking.

So, as many have suggested, pull the belt and start it up to see if the noise stops - what do you have to loooooooooose?

And you may have the price of a new engine to gain - :)

You're right. I will try it, can I just get some help, when I took out the alternator I removed the belt from the pulley on the alternator, but I am not sure how to remove the belt completely. Also when the belt is removed, if the noise stops does that mean it was a bad belt?

Dumb question, but if I pull the belt off and the noise goes away, does that mean my problem was just a bad belt? No bad rods in the motor?