FRS/BRZ EPS Motor Coupler Replacement (Rattle Fix)
 

Note: All images in these instructions are clickable for full size images

Parts Required (One of these two options)

• Hyundai EPS coupler
  
• Original Toyota EPS coupler (identical to the original and will not require trimming)

Tools Required

• 10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets
  
• ~4in extension
  
• 14mm open ended wrench
  
• Phillips head screwdriver
  
• X-Acto knife

Prepwork

Trim Hyundai coupler

• Using X-Acto knife, cut off all the nipples on both sides of the coupler
  https://i.imgur.com/pMkRp42m.png
  

Instructions

Remove column cover

• Turn where 90 to the left to expose and remove the left hand phillips head screw
  https://i.imgur.com/wt0PaRhm.jpg
  
• Turn where 90 to the right to expose and remove the right hand phillips head screw
  
• Recenter the wheel
  
• Seperate the top and bottom halves of the cover
  
• The top cover is tethered to the cluster bezel so for now just leave the top laying on the column until you remove the cluster bezel/hood
  

Remove the lower cover

• Open the drivers side door and pop of the cover on the left side of the dash (there is a place to pull at the very bottom)
  https://i.imgur.com/GcMB6n0m.jpg
  
• Remove the lower phillips head screw that is behind the cover
  https://i.imgur.com/eQomIAFm.jpg
  
• Remove the phillips head screw at the bottom right
  https://i.imgur.com/vEGqsjam.jpg
  
• Grab the cover just to the left side of the column and pull outward
  
• Repeat on the right side
  
• Disconnect trunk/dimmer switches
  

Remove radio bezel

• Pinch the bottom part of the bezel tightly and pull outwards it should pop loose
  
• Now put your fingers behind the bezel and slide them along the edges to pop all 4 corners
  

Remove cluster bezel

• Get your fingers behind the bottom left of the bezel to the left of the column and pull outward until it pops (you have to pull hard on this one)
  https://i.imgur.com/BwdISn2m.jpg
  
• Repeat on the right side
  
• Grab the entire hood and pull up and out and the hood, bezel and upper column cover will come off in one piece
  https://i.imgur.com/6IqdyWtm.jpg
  
• Disconnect the trip/display button connectors
  
• Lift the hood along with the top column cover
  

Remove lower reinforcement brace

• Remove two 10mm bolts
  

Remove rear EPS bolt

• To free up a little room, remove the brake switch connector
  
• Using a 14mm open ended wrench, loosen the flange bolt on the back of the EPS unit (Down by the brake switch)
  
• The bolt will not come all the way out until you start to drop the column so come back later to get it the rest of the way out
  

Remove column nuts

• Using a 12mm socket with extension remove the two bolts which hold the column to the chassis
  
• Place one hand under the column while placing the other hand on the EPS motor
  
• Now lower the column while using the EPS motor for extra leverage to rotate the column until the rear bolt is able to come the rest of the way out
  
• Now rotate wrestle the whole column down while rotating the EPS unit so the motor is pointed down towards the floor
  
• Slide the driver’s seat forward and telescope the wheel out until it can rest on the seat so you have both hands free to work on the EPS unit
  https://i.imgur.com/Q4TadW9m.jpg
  

Remove EPS motor

• Using a 12mm socket with extension remove the two bolts holding the motor to the EPS unit
  
• Lower motor to the floor trying not to damage the cables
  
• The old coupler will either be stuck on the motor teeth or worm teeth
  
• Remove the old coupler and clean out any leftover chunks of rubber
  https://i.imgur.com/76KRB3om.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vcUxGWXm.jpg
  
• The little inner star peice will no longer be needed with the Hyundai coupler
  
• Install Hyundai coupler
  

Reinstall

• Follow all above steps in reverse order
  

Thanks for the write up. Will definitely try this.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Hi did this yesterday but when I put back up I have no power steering and getting a code c1525, took it apart and put back up a few times trying to see if I needed to align something or check inner gears mesh etc but nothing is working tried clearinh code multiple times... Any help would be appreciated

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Worked like a charm

Can only find this for you.
http://www.autocats.ws/manual/toyota...0277g001x.html

I did the coupler replacement on my FR-S and found ermax's tips very helpful. There were a few things that I did differently which will make the install easier. I used an identical coupler for a 2010 thru 2017 Kia soul, available from the dealer. After removing the column cover screws, straighten the steering wheel, remove the key and disconnect the battery. I found that removing the steering wheel assembly from the splines and laying it over to the side makes the job a lot easier, no wrestling is needed. I marked everything with a magic marker to align it during reassembly. A little bulb grease on the coupler makes it more cooperative when reinstalling the motor. Hope this was helpful.

Just did the fix, it works brilliantly!

The install wasn't bad at all, about 1.5 hours total

Thanks for blazing this trail and putting in the work!

Hi,

I fixed this previously in the garage but hold and behold the same issue started again.

Thank you for showing how to fix it properly i think the garages just did a quick fix.

I have a silly question though as i have never done this before.

Do i need to just install a single Hyundai coupler or stick 2 of them together?

As per the pictures on amazon it looks pretty slim so do i need to fit 2 in after trimming the nipples?

And yea i ordered 6 pieces just in case :)

Anyone having the same problem in Dubai just give me a shoutout.

Thanks,

No you just need one. I’ve seen a few others reporting this problem from Dubai.

I have gotten to the install portion and I am unable to get the carriage bolt back through the bracket by the brake switch.


Any tips? I got it back past the little lip there that requires the column to be loose, but I will be damned if I can get the threads to start.

It’s a bitch to get it through. I ended up cross threading mine. I think what happens is when pulling it apart you spread that bracket so it is no longer square and then the bolt doesn’t line up properly when going back in. If you can get a C clamp in there to bent the bracket back into shape that may help.

I really wish the bolt wasn’t blocked like it is. This is by far the worst part of the job.

I cant figure out how to make this forum quote you.


But..


That is actually a great idea, I was thinking the bracket was out of square.


I will try this, thank you!

I am completely ecstatic that this worked. But I am mad that it took me so long to find this post, I have been looking for a solution to this issue for months.


If OP had never posted a comment on this random youtube video ([ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMTxhr43slk[/ame]) I never would have solved this.


On top of the clunking noise you see in the video linked. I would also get a small clunking noise that sounds a lot like sway bar links when going over sharp bumps (divots in road) or small bumps in succession (think warning strips on highway).


Also, shout out to ermax for the idea of the bracket getting tweaked. I was able to get one of those vise grip style clamps (https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AL._SX425_.jpg) to straighten the bracket.


Thanks Guys!

Glad you got it worked out and thanks for sharing your results of fixing the bracket. I should probably add a warning and a link to your solution in the OP.


Now that it’s fixed doesn’t it seem like you shaved 100k mikes off the car? Hahaha