Resetting ABS code
 

Hello guys. I have a P0500 that poped up at my last track day. I think I corrected the issue but the thing is, I cannot clear the code, it appears that ABS related codes cannot be clear with the normal OBDII + torque app combination?.

Does anyone know of a way to reset this code? Before a suggestion comes up about driving X miles or something like that, this is a caged track car that is not registered so it cannot run on the street, and of course I need this fixed before heading for the track, the car is in limp mode because of it.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Isn't P0500 Vehicle speed sensor? Sounds like ABS sensor might have been damaged.

Try disconnecting the battery.

The car was off during winter so battery was off for 4 months, that does not clear the code. Yes it is an ABS sensor, hence the title of the post. The code is not cleared if you just clear codes with torque and an OBDII reader. I am pretty sure of what caused the code and its corrected, but I cannot clear the code nor will it go away on its own based on what I have read.

I have also tried disconnecting the battery and putting both the positive and negative connectors together for 25 minutes, as I saw that as a way to reset ABS related codes but it did not work either.

Sorry I meant to say Speed Sensor not ABS Sensor. Take it to someone who has an advanced code reader and see if they can clear it. What might be happening is that you need a need speed sensor, which can get pricey ($400?)

While it might, I dont think its the case. ABS works off speed sensors in our cars, its all part of the same system. Anyways, if I turn (either by hand or engaging in gear while on jackstands) I get a readout of speed on the car properly, and the problem was on the rear driver side. Anyways, if there is no choice I will have to do that I guess, its not $400 but it is quite pricey indeed, I can always buy used ones for way cheaper, but Im 99.9% sure my sensor is ok and was just malfunctionning due to something else (that I may or may not want to admit to online :P ).

I think you hit something or rolled over something :P

It was neither, it was way dummer and I dont think you can even guess it (never heard of anyone who's had it happen).

Hmm.. internet advice is bad, but it gets even worse without the full picture of whatever happened...

I dont want advice on what happened, only on resetting the ABS/speed sensor related code. But since there seems to be no answer whatsoever because either nobody knows how, or they seem to judge better not to give any advice because reasons... here's what it is.

I replaced one of rear wheel hubs because the bearing was starting to go. Apparently I didnt torque down the 4 bolts that hold the wheel hub from behind well enough because as the day progressed they backed out and the wheelhub had some freeplay in its position.

What I think happened, ABS sensor probably lost reading (since the ring that its reading is on the wheel hub, having some play it will not be facing the sensor while cornering. The car ran fine for 2 days, it only showed this syntomp at the very end of the second day, or some 4 hours of track time after.

I have taken all 4 sensors out, no damage, I cleaned them all up (some had brake dust all over them) and put them back. I did not run over anything, I did not hit anything, I just need to reset the damn code so I can get on with my life. Time trials begin in 4 wheels and I still have a metric ton of work to do on the car. Any kind of help is appretiated as I'd rather not put the car on the trailer, and spend half a day to drive somewhere, get charged $150 to push a button to reset the code and drive back.

Without us knowing what "happened" there was no way to give advice, because what happened gives clues to what might be wrong. It's like going to a doctor regarding an issue with the skin but failing to tell him that you spend 8 hours a day under the sun and hoping he gives you the right diagnosis.

P0500 is a VSS code, not an ABS code ( I assume your check engine light is on?). You should be able to reset the code via common OBD2 scanners. If it's not going away, there is some problem with the sensor probably on that same side. The sensor might look good, but it might be internally damaged or the cabling got damaged.

ABS/ESP codes generally check out/clear from the cluster when the key is cycled.

Current fault code remains, you still have a current fault.

Engine lights sometimes take a handful of key cycles to go out, sometimes never go out.

SRS lights tend to never go out on their own.

There is a difference between stored codes and codes that set a light/limp mode. You could have 20 stored codes in the engine with no CEL and no indication anything is (or ever was) wrong.

Current faults are generally a... current fault. Something is currently wrong. You need a scanner capable of reading more than the generic ODB II section of the engine module.

Another issue may be if the wheel bearing assembly has a magnetic strip built into it for the ABS sensor to read it could have gotten damaged by running around with it not torqued properly.

I have another spare wheel bearing assembly around (as I was expecting the other side to give me troubles not much after so I bought 2). I may get around to swap it just to isolate that. From what I read the sensor needs to send a signal, 4 pulses over a full rotation of the wheel over the wire. Technically I could then just intercept the signal with a multimeter to see if the readout is correct (and then maybe look for a fault on the wire?).

So it seems the consensus is that it should clear with the OBDII scanner that I have and the fact that its not clearing means the problem is still there, correct?

Also, the reason I ask this is because elsewhere I read about this code, its always said that codes that turn your ABS light on do not clear with a normal scanner, seems to be the case for most other cars from a quick googling around. Also usually when I clear a code, even those that are still there, the code gets cleared, then it reappears again either after a few seconds, after a few miles of driving around or on next turn cycle. When I clear the codes for this one, it does not go away even for a second, light is solidly on, code still reading.